camatv

ok my bad then buy a set.. believe me if i was at the point where every ounce counted i'd be looking at getting these. those top bolts cannot be cheap to make they are damn long

ti bolts dont look that different. its not going to be obvious that they are ti. they are not rainbow or glow in the dark.. if your ast the top of your so called game and need every ounce to matter ti is the way to go. OEM race bikes are fully ti.

the stock modded trans is a deff necessity with the top end your going to use. but no one has even asked the other questions that are very necessary... what reeds do you have what pipes? do you have a billet basket? HD clutch? billet bearing'd clutch pusher>? good carbs? what kind of intake, air filter setup are you planning on? these are all very necessary to complete a build and make it reliable.. also look up a leak down tester and either build one or invest in one. they are cheap/ easy to build.... i'm guessing the 4 mill from sprinkler man has domes and/ or a head also ( which will make a very easy to assemble setup ) have you checked the frame for being bent, front end, shocks, axle bearings etc etc?? your 3k budget is very doable and should end up with a nice fun bike especially if your going to do all the labor yourself.

21's/

if using a dirt bike kill switch use the black/white stripe and a chassis ground. the red/black needs to be grounded to run. ( key switch) the lighting wiring and regulator are all separate system to the ignition even the stator is seperatley wound.

i was thinking maybe wsm also. how old is the motor? there are so many rods out there right now its kinda hard to know for sure. plus even then the quality control and steel composition of the crappy ones are all over the place.

dang! i have 2 that might be for sale too. i think i really want to concentrate on one project for now..

hey i rode it around!! ha

i really just want a lower roll out ripper...

they are an 81ish. its hard to say for sure since some measure around the blades and others roll through sand for real tire roll. BUT if i rember they say 80+ or 81+ on the side's

tires i need right here

dang!! sold the blue mustang??? this is a great set of ties rears actually work really well..

i will be there not sure with what maybe just the teryx. who knows. maybe just saturday too.

maybe because most (at least i do it for sure) clean up the port area's also. i just call it a casting cleanup myself. but do as the romans ya know.

klotz supertech in the alky bikes. 32-1 i hate the 927 in the alky bike, because they stick pvs really quick. gas one old trail motor ran whatever was lying around or at the local gas station for years. motor lasted forever. it had , lucas, masterpro, klotz, 927, yamapube, some green mower stuff at the gas station, lots and lots of walmart and penzoil tcw3 outboard oil in it also. any klotz oil is going to be premium stuff. any price in the 40-48 buck range is pretty normal. i order mine from rockymountan atv with some other parts usually for free shipping. 42-44 bucks

shit im the uckin fastestes mofo har

it it was mee i'd look for a set of packard 40mm lectrons for it. easy to setup and tune for beginners.

the castings have gottn a lot better in the last few eyars. long time ago when i started working with cheeta's the transfers were nearly plugged off from casting flash at times. then they had to have a clean up done or they did run like crap. the porting i do on cubs is mostly to broaden the power out i feel. and some internal realignment of ports.. i have seen a bunch of overported cubs. or cylinders that were best suited for super light setups. a lot of them would get so pipey they wouldnt handle much load, a missed shift, or shock on take off. i personally dont like a bike that rides that way.

i used to get this stuff called " monster alky" it was potenet stuff. bike deff ran faster with that alky than the m1 i had gotten. now the circle burner dude i would get it from is not around.

yo yo homie. first off ditch tha trinity head. unless ole titan sayz he can recuts ya some diff'n domes for it. unless the domes waz cuts by A+S. ole a+s i'm pretty shar used custom domes on they setups. i agreez thats 41mm 40 or 41.3/44 lectrons on alky would wake that sucka up. not sure what phiapes ya sayz ya running but that might be a holding back feature also. plus any major crankwork as fa as balancin goes will make all da diff in tha world. i'm positive that its cuts to damn hig to be switched to a fo mill anywayz. heck if yaq'z gets it running right thaz motor shu put the smack down on most them dang fo millz round thar n e wayz juss some suggestions yo.

sprokets and chain should be replaced in sets. if the sprokets that worn out the chain is probably worn really bad. my 535 eats anything but sunstar or PBI or sproket specialist fronts and only thing that holds up is sidewinder rears. it would shred sunstar and jt rears in a day. switched to sidewinder been on there for about 4 years. sunstar are great f+back. DID rkmxz4 or 3 is a superior chain.

http://www.renegadepro1.com/Renegade/?page_id=326 what they talk about here i have seen with budget alky. not as bad as m1 or sudco. a lot of times here is a definite smelly difference in some alky i have gotten.. hard to explain??

if i could get renegade here locally i would try it.. closest retailer is in topeka 3 hours away. i run sunoco alky and m1. m5 has nitro mixed in. the reason for your lean out. i have ran black drum budget alky but always had issues with it...

if the weebs are no black its an oem crank. the china cranks are just copies. the older non marked roods seemed to hold up somewhat better.

i just happen to have a nice set.....