camatv

6 speed N down with air shifter... something i have been thinking about

the one with the inframes looks better than it probably is... those pipes have to be sticking out a half mile to clear the oem plastics. side view looks ok because you cannot see that atrocity dickles looks great because east coast has done a few of them using out frame pipes, out frame pipes make a LOT of problems disapear.. plus its obvious they took the time to make it look nice. to get inframes to actually fit and look right takes a shit ton of time. also getting the motor down low in the chassis is a challenge in a way. but very dooable if the motor is up high MOST all pipes will not fit like they should and not clear the lower frame rails without a lot of cutting and rework. its better to sit the engine lower in the chassis and then work everything out from there.

i think any good polisher, powder place can do the shock maybe MR bling for the polish?

im not sure how a 12 port layout is going to work in a cub/ and or cheeta..? not much room in the skirt for those weird transfer tunnel windows. and dont worry dude its only about 4-5 assholes on the site that bash everyone ( and i dont have a clue how to use emoctionscomergssmileyfacebullshit12yearoldgirluses)

ever heard of shill bidding?? id say thats whats up always funny to me that some stuff goes sky high then is relisted "due to non paying bidder" 2 weeks later.. those are very very nice tho. wow.. if nothing has been repainted or redone thats super hard to believe. nothing even rubbed off on clutch cover..

i have a 350cc stock cyl in a heavy ass frame run 14 40 on 72ish roll out 12 pad haulers and i weigh 280lbs does that help? also have ran up to 16/40 on the bigger bike with more paddle.. 15/44 2.93 14/41 2.92 14/40 2.85 14/42 3 < i liked this gear also.. ran this on my 87 with an alky 350 and t-5's 15/40 2.66 15/41 2.73 you should try to run a larger front sproket and then size the rear to suite your needs. the larger front is easier on the motor. i never go less than a 14 no matter what. my old trail motor i actually ran a 15/38... i liked to just lug it around. set them up to make good overall power and then you dont have to shift so darn much.. other people would ride it and kill it all the time from the tall gearing.. 15/38 2.53 of course yoru actual tire size will make huge differences in your particular gearing....

yea the stock carb is horrible for sure

most all records are results of NOS>.

just came across a huge supply of belt sander belts. i have a bunch of these to sell off. most any normal grit is available at this time. i also have a bunch of 4" round sticky back 180 grit pads also. as well as a lot of 1 x 65 and 1/4 and 1/2 inch wide stuff as well. as i get it all inventoried i will make a complete list.. these are all pasco brand made in america high quality belts. 4" $3.00 a belt box quanity is 50 2" $2.50 a belt box is also 50 these are brand new in package. buy larger qty's and i will cover shipping. they are used on industrial sanders, tube notcher's, knife sander's etc. if you have something particular please pm me i will start listing these on ebay next week.

well i think the real question is what are you actually trying to measure with the tape measure?? if the sleeves were never finish bore'd honed they may actually be at 63.??.. the final bore, hone would be set to the new 64.?? pistons..

shift shaft is worn out. i really think your maybe going overboard on trying to narrow down exactingly whats wrong and replacing just the one part thats worn. in these transmission anything that contacts metal is going to get worn out. the first is always the detent alignment pin, spring that rides on, and shift shaft. replace those only if your concerned about cost and reassemble the motor with all other needed new parts, pressure test, reinstall in bike, and go ride. rember as fast and loud said K>I>S>S> but stated a few times if you want to do some worth wile upgrades now is the time to do it, modded trans, billet basket, tested and then true/ weld crank, check piston to wall clearance, maybe new top end, and maybe a mild port, reeds etc? thats all just the basic's for a much more reliable and fun to ride bike.

word.

check these out

ok read the rest now. as far as the hybrids... the cr250 in trx chassis is bad ass. pv motor nice runner light as hell.. if i was going to do a big bore deff would be either ktm as stated OR kx500 real beast of a motor, real pv engine etc.. and in my opinion the cubs are patternd from the ktm port layout.. the ktm is a pv motor also.. on the compression release. that goofy one on the lt is a turd. on my cr500 i have one that lever actuated just push the lil lever down on the bars when i kick it pops and i let go.. easy as cheesy,, if you go big bore 2 stroke a comp release is a must.. also the build of the motor and the crankshaft quality will dictate the vibration of the motor. ok just looked at that 700 in a 450 frame holy fuck thats the way to go... of all the 4 pokes the only one i like is the 700 rappy.... i think its hillarious that that low rpm beast makes more power than a high rev totally $$$$ 450 turd wagon... time to look for a rappy motor.. i already have a chassis

ok only read 1st post sorry if this is a repeat.. if you want REAL tq AND hp your going to have to run a cheetah anyone that says a 400cc cheeta on a stock stroke crank wont make tq dosent know what they are talking about. built right they should be able to make in the 55-60ft lbs tq range very low i the rpm band... thats more than most 4 pokes.. to get it to that point its going to make in the 70-80"s in hp pretty easily... so hold the fuck on. timing can tame it some if you need more tractability.. serval yea its cheaper but your going to have about a 2500 rpm real powerband.. thats really limited. BUT IF BUILT RIGHT can make nice power spread. to get them to really shine you will need the correct pipes for them.. i have seen and rode both cylinders in horrible build status and have rode both in very nice build status i'd chose the cheeta over the serval every time except if budget didnt allow the better cylinder BUT have you had a real set of tq 350 stock cylinders done yet? with real custom domes? not that "mx" bullshit port i see all the time but real, major reworked for tq only transfer's 350cc ( 65mm bore) cylinders?? id say probably not... just my opinion..

looks like you should keep running them through ebay. nice results!

my thoughts and research.. hand coned like you did are bad ass yes they take forever. BUT reworking some of the pieces to include the curves is real work... ( hard to explain) hydro formed, OR oil formed. 2 ways to do this as i understand. make like you did THEN cut right down the sides, THEN squish them flat thats your basic hydro pattern. there is another safer way to do the expansion not using a pressure washer.. google pipe testing.. stamps this i'm not to sure about but is the best way. in my opinion IF you can get a stamp just for the big curves at the front that works easily. most use one large stamp and then weld all together, then cut across and fit to jig, bike etc. most all pipes are made this way. i have been told that only 2 companies will produce stamps and own the rights to them, you have to pay for them, i find this hard to believe because i have seen multiple one off or very very small run pipes made from what i believe are stampings, i cannot believe that a shop would pay the 10,000 + bucks i was told to run and develop a stamp. if jd would make a stamp you would need to have a finalized perfect pipe figured out them cut in half for the stampings development. in these modern laser guided times i feel it should be very cheap to produce a decent die shape. and just depend on the material the die is actually made of. last 2 ways is hand forming by hand, ( mallet and sand bag ) OR with a mold or "puck".... just the ways i have figured it out..i am in no way an "expert" these are just my findings from hours of research and limited dealings with places that do this all the time. like i said dont expect much info to come from places that build pipes for $$$

sell them buy new complete pipes. just shear silencers with stinger tubes very very rarely come up for sale. if ever. OR build your own. keep it cheeepo

the slides can go in backwards, you can swap the bowls and screw them up, you can mess up idle screw torrs eliminators pretty easy ( just what i have seen) and i agree. the couple of shops around here that are charging 85 an hour are completely clueless on how to work on most any 2 stroke's let alone most 4 strok sport models. if it is a high rev, shim stack setup or a smoker forget it. i get more repairs from others mistakes than any other job. sometimes it takes me 8-10 HOURS to fix everything wrong with them to get them to run right. your best bet is to get a manual and start reading it. they will get you started in the right direction. bUT if your not mechanically inclined please ask for help from hopefully someone locally that can do it right. and rember just because its not running right its USUALLY not the jetting its something else.

there are a few companies that make pipes for them i believe. if not there is a market there for sure. back when i had an eton for the kiddo i was going to build a pipe for it. stinger and internal size of silencer makes a difference as does length of silencer, size of packing affects sound

if the banshee is tuned right they wont blue.

WHOOPS!

guess i'll just have to comment on the whole 350 vs cub thing here... in my OPINION to get a 350cc stock cylinder to actually run good takes real talent, understanding, and overall setup.. so MOST really well built / setup 350's are running at the top of their relative "GAME" on the other hand most 421 cub/ serval's are either budget built or slapped on, non ported, hardly setup builds that just happen to make ok power due to the port arrangement and the over all cc size of the motor. its easy to just bolt a bunch of parts together and make a weekend out of a slapped together hardly tuned bike.. thats also the reason why there are some really good running PORTED servals out there. and all those " i just beat that dm on my stocker ha ha" the "builder" had to actually do some real work to them to run like they do that includes modifying the actual transfer's not just moving the cub's exhaust port to 70-75% width and calling it " drag port" plus the setup comes into factor more than i think most even realize. i mean yea a 100hp 350cc is going to run bad ass in a fully lightened frame with pencil parts on it a super light rider and a good gearing/ tire setup with frame geo that dosent jump all over the place like a kid in front of mc donards i mean really are you suprised? the ones that i think really shine are the sleeper"s. used to see a lot of them now almost none..

wow nice thread. went from somewhat informative to absolute bullshit in less than 2 pages!! sweet! <br /><br />Sent from my MOMSBASEMENT1234 using Tapatalk<br /><br />

the one i do shifts easier all the time. will not hop out of gear or dead neutral on you. i recomend them for every banshee motor.. escpecially if its apart already..