camatv

th eo- rings sounds to be on the wrong bearing.. you dont really need the o-rings on any of the bearings at all. the bearing with the pin sounds like it was installed backwards.. i thinka you gatta screwed..

ta da...

your boost, boyesen ports are way to small.. all oem cylinders that use boost ports the holes are about the size of your thumb.. also all that stuff you talked about with the intake charge.. look at the reed tip area. thats where your air, fuel flow enters the engine. and rember in this type of setup the "charge" has to almost completely stop, then turn 90* and enter the transfer tunnels.. this effect is something i addressed in my welded cylinders.. to me the only way around it was reworking the intake area completely and welding a bunch of stuff out in the trans tunnels.. also if you read anything you would hopefully of found out that the charge will follow any surface you cut into it. if its rounded the air charge will turn down and across that area, if its straight edged it will cause a major turbulent swirl, ( not such a bad thing).. also if you didnt know the pipes have a major effect on how the transfers, intake work also. something to think about. dump the reed spacers. the boost bottle ehh you MIGHT see a minor minimum tiny effect on a dyno IF you were building for tq only. but to me not worth the chance of a busted intake and all that room it takes up in there. on transfers check this out... of course these vids are without the pipe effect i'm sure.. if you watch them you will see what i mean. i think they are neat. others may not

sweet!! any chance of a " the fastest" owners, motor style cc etc? i think it would be nice to have a name associated with them?? i really like seeing pictures of the actual bikes making the records thats cool. instead of just a name list alone.

ok.. my opinions on triple's why not just run the snomo triple and save yourself a shitload of grief..and expense

yup yup yup... my thoughts take it how you want.. 10 cubs run great. 10 cranks are more ex than a 4 mill. need more case work for the 10 than the 4 BUT the 73 needs top case work to fit, the 73mm pistons are more than the 68's Not by much.. the cheeta IF done right with the pv's will have a much broader spread of power than the 10 but the 10 will have more tq than a 421 cub. the cheetah has a much better head shape/ design than the cub, the cheeta will need real domes for it. i have my own thougths on exhaust shape and port timings on pv motors.. most all the cheeta's i have seen here are set up like a fixed port engine.. that alone leaves a lot on the table for them to run right.

are the wheels lined up on the hubs? banshee hubs have lil nubby's on them that line the wheels up so many times i see people halfass slap the wheel on its hanging half off the hub they just thread the nuts on 2 threads then slam them on with an impact. bashing the wheel into those centering nubby's.. if thats ok you need to balance the combo.

weird tires you ride the "streets" with it?

shit.. if your friend works there tell him to hook you up!! the guys in the engine department will get your stock cylinder completely ready to go. i'm guessing your local to them so if you do have any problems you can drive right down to the shop and start throwing stuff around..

ummm.. the banshee motor is ruber mounted not sure if anyone brought that up.. the only OEM ground from the stator is from the main ground going to it from chassis ground ( wire on regulator mount) . that same ground feeds everything else. i have found multiple breaks in that ground or the connection is all rusted up from contamination on the backside of the stator.. the coil, ignition etc is all grounded through the cassis.

chatter is a bitch... i used to think velocity is the deal on these not volume. my recent readings in a few real books ( not gordons) kinda changed my idears. you need volume AND velocity.. it takes a LOT of work in the transfers to acheive this. the result tho is a lot more tq in the lower rpm ranges and a definate boost in the upper rpm's instead of a peaky power output.. the exhaust shape is perfect for a real rider!

make sure no leaks do a jet test. run it hard in all gears if you can more load the better. i have pictures of pistons one year old with the easy smeeze heat cycle break in style theat have so much blowby they almost look coated. then hard break ins after 3 years that lost comp due to ring wear and minimal blow by... in my personal hands on exp the hard break in is way better..

im thining about doing something with a kx500 need complete motor. prefer something newer. will buy cash or trade out work if you want some transmission stuff done or whatever??

just found this nice! http://www.riderplanet-usa.com/atv/trails/kansas_list.htm the place i'm talking about is just called "the river"

there are spots all around hutchinson ks which is about 45 miles from wichita. best most popular is in between hutch and south hutch across from carey park its on river bank. parking area ( rough) and trails, sand etc. nothing really really crazy but its a great area for me to go test stuff. and sometimes get a race with a local piped 450 phhh you can google maps it and see everything. put in carey park hutchinson kansas and look across the river. up by the north bridge to go into south hutch is the entrance. its just a small gate to go over the dyke area. no cost. just dont act like a retard in the parking area. 3 miles from my house is another river overpass, riding spot but mostly big trucks go down there to run the river. it has a decent sand bar that i flatten out to do testing on.

just add 2 zig zag cut strips down the front and the back no more footsie's flying off i those half track wheelies.

i need to go work there..

sweet

i built one a while back after reading a few threads i made some changes to suite my needs i felt, nd went to work I used a fuel pressure tester, vacuum gauge from auto store. took the intakes i was going to use to the hardware store, fit the plugs i wanted bought a air tank schrader fill valve (also at auto store) and a few pipe thread barb fitting, plug pipe tap, and a t fitting.. (also at auto parts store) went home glued it all up, taped the plastic, sealed it all and started using my air compressor, and some soapy water in a squirt bottle to test stuff.. ( with a regulator and a gauge set down to 15 psi.of course .) also thanks to this forum i found an old banshee oem front bumbper and robed the rubber plugs off of it. even better i had a warrior front bumper and those are larger id for the other stuff i have tested.. whoo ho ! it absolutley amazes me how much stuff has had problems.. found a 250r with multiple leaks all over the place that came in needing "jetted", did a somewhat fresh built banshee motor with major leaks on the intake area's, multiple other banshees with leaky intake's with good quality gaskets".. and recently a lt500 with case issues and blown the f out crank seals. its amazing what you can find with these. to me its as necessary to have one of these as a 10 mm end wrench,and also a synch tool, flywheel puller. are very necessary to work on these motors.. and NO i wont build anyone one, and i dont give a shit about the gauges accuracy down to bla bla bla. on a side note dont build one to pull a vacuum on its extremely hard to find leaks with vacuum.

i think this simple answer is overlooked so often.. it applies to all types of jetting etc.. there really is no set it and forget it to any motor tuning.. you could run over 10 degrees if your compression was set low, had a special shape in the dome that has really good deto avoidance, or you had retardd high exhaust port numbers.. start at 0 and go up from there now rember differnt days are going to affect the way the motor runs some days on the ragged edge and the weather just changes enough or your load changes on the motor and that setting is not going to work no mo.. thats kinda where " safe " gets you.

oh also for actual answers to your questions. 1 you cannot reliably tell if its welded.. 2 you can bore stock cylinder to 80 over or 66mm i believe safely. with bigger sleeves you can bore to 70ish mm going over 68mm presents all kinds of problems all in its own. 3 with absolutely no other needed information given i would just say 110 straight. 4 you can run up to and over 210 kicking compression and probably higher with more exotic fuel blends. anywhere from 13-1 to 16-1 is common in alky motors.. does that make it run well well you didnt ask that these are just direct answers to the questions you asked

its like a broken record... complete tear down. only bore to what you need, not what your friends hot rod thats bored 30 over has get real porting get real pipes get big carbs get real domes get a billet basket get a timing advance something or other get a real clutch get a clutch pusher with a bearing on it for that real clutch get something done to the trans depending on far into " drag" your really going get good gaskets and seals build a leak down tester get real reeds use real good fuel or switch to alky whatever your budget is add 2500 and thats the real number + its going to cost. and thats just the motor!!

if it has both groves i ran the clips offset also. when running 2 clips best to use brand new ones. plus there is a straight edge and a rounded edge.. run them together.. just what i have done. maybe overkill who knows.. you can also run a full circlip all the way around the bearing like the fully clipped crankshafts.

degree with your full setup on the motor. base gaskets your going to use, you should probably order a few sets .,actual pistons your going to run, dont forget to compensate for the pop up.. with the engine in mockup it will be very easy to use a degree wheel to get to where you need to be on the actual port timings. now the rest.. that takes time and some real work. try 192/ 128 timings first. set width at 70-72% of bore. use nice gradual radius on the top of the exhaust port.. that will get you started. leave the intake bridge stock width, you can add a lot to the intake roof height. DONT hog out the actual intake tunnel where the reeds sit. you can go to high and break into water jacket easily. open the exhaust port up a lot and match to the pipes flange size. back when i did a lot with the degree wheel i made a custom one with 0-190+ markings on it. to make things much easier and much less confusing than atdc and btdc.. now i have a program that i can input the rod length, stroke, deck height etc to give me really precise measurements. makes things go easy as far as numbers are concerned practice using the 90* tool before you drop it into the cylinders you want to use. just some quick tips..

oooooohhhhhh.... ok here we go.. dyna is a digital ignition. failures are from using non resistor plugs and non resistor caps. the cdi MUST have a good cap and r style plug ( like bR8es NOT b8es) i run br9eix plugs. the nology COIL works great with the dyna IF you use a resistor cap if using hotwire's.. i make my own wires from solid core wire and BWD componets that any auto store should have or can get. ( the cdi is the same type and has the same issues that modern bikes have with electrical noise. ) SOOO if you mount it right next to the coil run straight wire's and non resistor plugs its going to act all kinds of crazy and may not act up right from the get go. then when you reinstall the simple oem cdi it will run just fine. you can bolt the oem coil right on top of the oem cdi and ride all dang day.. the dyna ignition is fully programable the later years have a built in 2 step for stutter launch control ( but i think its a lil slow to disengage) has a rpm activated switch ( NOS!!) and is FULLY programable with 4 dipswitches for differnt timing curves. you can program 4 differnt curves into it and try them all out in one outing. OR use differnt ones for differnt track conditions.. they are very dependable IF SET UP RIGHT!! you can use all other OEM parts on them is what i would recomend. my biggest complaint is that you cannot download the curves or see whats loaded in the box. so if you have a bunch of differnt ones to try out or run you really need to keep track of whats in it. my wife's bike is running a 6 year old dyna on an aftermarket coil. 485 ran a harley accell coil on it with dyna and the 535 i run one on it as well. i have had one fail about 7 years ago. thats when i figured out the whole digital thing after talking to the MANUFACTURER after changine my mounting locations and wire, caps, plugs no problems since. i have actually seen more oem cdi's fail then dyna......