camatv

all that drag stuff, steel axle, heavy ass dirt tires. sticker kit absolutley no info on either except the engine size. look nice tho.

really depends on the builder... i have seen so called "mx ports" that were little more than a clean up job.. some "dune ports" wouldn't be more than an hour from a full on drag port ( not welded). to get real low end out of a stock cylinder takes a lot longer than a decent dune/ drag port on my table.. now that being said a "real' drag port with fully welded cylinders, welded in triple exhaust ports take a lot longer. but is pretty rare these days.

i ran fmf's on a drag ported motor with alky 38 lectrons, lockup, and override.. it was one of the funnest ride able bikes i have had on the sand.. they were fmf sst's and i center mounted the silencers.

whoops

take that billet basket back to them and spend the tiny bit more for the plated one.. the uncoated billet wears too fast thats the only issue i ever had with any of their parts. they are great those billet covers are big bucks!

22ft lbs final tq is a lil much. to much tq and you can pull the studs up and warp the top of the cylinders. an o-ringed head dosent need nearly as much tq as you think.

josh pick me up on your way out ha!

that wreck was from shit chassis design. a locked turn front end is bullshit. .. the new site does look nice and good information on there. i signed up for the forum and will make visits there from time to time. nice to see that a lot of local somewhat unknown tracks are listed. i think some of the problems are cost of racing and the intimidation that some people feel when they show up to these events. i mean i can go any weekend when it is nice to the local asphalt car track. pay about 20 bucks including entry to the area and race all day. one of the first times we went i got bored watching and enter'd the mercury into the street car shoot out event. it was a lot more fun haning in the starting lines and racing the car to a blazing 25 second 1/4 mile to me. even worse this year is i plan on running the atv at the track. the hans? device i looked at the other day only weighed 1lb..

bring a big towel cause there is no curtain.. back before i had the shitty ass rv thats all i used. no big deal. if you cannot handle that stay home i mean really.. i'll be there of course. down on the nice concrete spots with nice power and a drain behind them for the rain. down in the tree's for wind block. not like it takes more than 2 minutes to drive up top to the mayhem. dueces wild is all the way across the dunes about a mile from the north gate, down a horrible road, mostly in town.

i never really noticed a big diffeence in the boost ports untill i welded up the cylinder and made them about the size of most dirtbikes, 250r's etc. i'm not going to just flat out say what i think i figured out. but the boost ports and intake size have something to do with it. its a concept i came up with after staring at the cylinder and watching those animations for a long time. the 350 i did seems to have a very strong lower end pull and more broad range of power after doing what i did. here is a hint rember the oem setup makes the charge make a total stop, and then turn 90* and thanks skeeter for pointing that out. according to every single 2 stroke book i have ever read , re working the stock reeds can make a difference. if you look at them right at the edges there is an overhang that impeads the flow just a tad i think its enough to point the charge more towards the inside of the reeds. taking the edge off ( according to 3 different books written by college professors, 2 stroke software engineers, and based off of lab results posted in these books) it helps straighten out the flow and can also help move more of it into the outside edges of the intake. of course these books were written back when there wasnt a high dollar replacement reed cage with smooth edges available to the general public.

delrin is a nice material. i prefer the plastics. the brass i have taken them off and they have been broken on the inside, they weigh more, and i feel that they didnt last as long.

the inner dome ring needs to be viton. rest can just be good ole black o-rings. it only uses a few rings. mine was a 2 piece but the 2 pieces bolt together and it comes on and off as one piece. it was actually a decent design whoever actually built it.

you can go broke trying to save a buck.

j- frames are fine. i raced 2 of them for years with extended arms. one had + 3 dentons on it.

t6 pipes are totally out of tune for a cub cylinder. great trail / rider pipes with proper porting (takes a long time) sent from my home puter, in a box down by the river

i like the info only base. thats cool.. the reason all the other forums are failing in my opinion is because there are SO many and its not like there are a billion differnt atv dragracers. its a pretty small community.. i really dont like having to go to 5 differnt forums to have a conversation or pass on info to the same person. it gets old. now please dont kill me on this one but back when planetsand was new. there wasnt really any other places to talk about dune drags, track racing, and even specific sections for just yoru area riders. so everone was on that site.. i mean really how many of you have or had a planetsand account name?? then there was this site wich at the time was pretty lame and just like all the other HQ sites. if yo ucame on here and said anything bad boom you were banned. now since loco took it over its a lot more fun and i FEEL that more people are also tired fo trying to chill out with their friends over 5 differnt forums.. and hq is pretty nice site to use.

the oem cable is the best one. and get a cable lubber already! with a cr or ez adjust lever, oem or motion pro cable with LUBE even a 15% over all 6 springs should be easy to pull. if thats to hard still you probably need to work on your upper body strength. if you cannot even pull in the lever how can you even hold on if you bunp a rock or stick,

nice!

my 87 is hangin on the wall, it misses doing wheelies on the strip..

hell some big dm's only make 120 hp.. thats about the same as a cub.. so acording to the net they suck to huh.. whats not talked about is the tq difference or how long they make that 100+hp.. the only time my 535 was on the dyno at 8500rpm it made 100 hp.. sorry i dont have sheets for that.. and most likely you will not find any if much vids of me on my bike on the net cause no one likes getting smoked by a 300lb fat ass on a 4-6 year old motor doin tha stanky legg.... the 535 is parked for now. the 485 i am reworking to more of a drag orientated motor. i'm sure it wont have much for the better running dm's but i will be able to hot lap it.. i cannot rember getting beat by any 421 out on the dunes.. even some from across the country/.. the most fun i had with a pv motor was tanners lil 400 that thing ripped!! it would come out of the hole very easily and would pull on top so hard it was crazy. i watched it run away from a few pretty large motors.. it had more in it for sure. but now its in a trail / rider bike. same port layout same motor, i cannot think of anyone that has taken a high revv drag cub and put it in a stock chassis with trinity pipes and a 4 over and said it was a fun trail bike.... cubs are fun dont get me wrong. but i prefer the cheeta casting.. of course this is just my experience based on what i have learned playing with these motors for about 5 +years now..

in one of my advanced electrical diag classes we had talked about if a coil has the metal areas exposed in its mounting screws ( like the banhsee coil and a lot of gm tbi stuff, hei etc) tis a good idear to make sure that the mounts are a good ground to them. also HEI ignitions also have a ground strap to the case of the coil under the cap. this makes a path for any electrical "noise" ( if i rember) somewhere to go. its simple i jsut make sure the frame is clean under where ever the coil is mounted. if in the stock location or somewhere custom. no biggeee if anyone dosent understand why its done read about hei ignition coils. i recently had to replace the coil in my ole hotrod from some retard not installing the ground strap from a from a mount bolt to the center ground. it cooked the wiring inside the cap, even the new coil had a nice instruction paper on how important this casing ground strap was... just my suggestion. just like the suggestion to add a 4 ga ground wire from your case to the frame. after thinking about this more and more maybe the spark plugs could benefit from the added ground.. but in my experience more problems from crappyily installed stators, crappy powdercoating grounds, shitty wiring and disregard for proper grounding in general, motor painting etc are the problems most of us deal with. not the results from not having an added ground strap/..

whoops.. that motor obviously ate a lot of dirt..

wow i just noticed that diagram dosent show any actual ground from the main harness to the regulator at all. i know there is one there and also the reg grounds through its casing. the coils casing ( mounting bolts) actually ground to the chassis. if there is any kinda bleed off the casing ground kinda takes care of it. according to yamaha as long as the threads on the bolts are kinda sorta into metal its good.. also the plugs ground into the motor and that would rely on the stator's ground to run... like a lot of things on these bikes the elecrical is retarded simple you can relly think way to much into it and forget the golden rule K>I>S>S> Keep It Simple Stupid.... i can test the integrity and pretty much any electrical failure right off the back of the bike with the 2 cdi plugs..

damn i gots ta drive out that way some day.. hopefully finchy will have something running so i can get at least a tour to the top of one hill.. haha

does it say cool head on it? or like cool design head? somethig like that? i have one of these no domes fit it if you actually do get ahold of ohton they say that head is obsolete and worthless, buy the new one bla bla bla bla.. i think i just used pd o-rings on it or went down to the o-ring place and sized them all up. whats bad is at least the one i have is a decent design. uses stock studs, and head sealing, dome support is pretty thick. i ran it for a long time on a 350 i did. it held up fine till the 7 year old crank let go and took out a dome..