camatv

you can get perforated core pipe from most GOOD metal suppliers.

the dasa connection might hint as to why they run so well on trex..... and also why i think they work great on a pv motor.. having the stamps is bad ass!!

yup

oh and this is the best drag axle ever by the way.. http://static.flickr.com/55/119673076_af814cea1f_o.jpg

maybe you should ask the guy you bought the bike from to ask the guy he got it from then to ask the guy that got it in the first place what it is.. i am sorry but i always find it so hard to believe when an obviously custom bike like that pops up with questions that the buyer dosent know already? something like that would nearly always go with a complete parts list or at least a very good description. at least i would THINK so. escpeciually with an obviously very custom axle in it. unless you got it from a repo auction or some pissed off wife kinda sale..? either way nice looking bike there is always the possibility it is a one off axle made out of ( whatever) that was machined to accept those hubs. the wheel hubs look like durablue hubs? i would say take it out weigh it look for markings on the inside where it rides in the carrier. also measure the bearing size maybe? i have a RAD alluminum full width axle in my cr500 trike

its just a std oil seal ( dust seal) and a special durometer sealing ring ( inside the head actual seal). nothing different than a hydraulic cylinder really. i get everything to reseal them at a local hydraulic repair facility. and if anyone says these seals are not right well they work in cylinders carrying thousands of pounds of hyd pressure.. i dont think these shocks are nearly anywhere close to that range. WORKS does sell "kits" to reseal std steelers type shocks.

here is my HONEST opinion with these pipes.. they REV they are a high rpm pipe. in my HONEST opinion they complement a powervalve motor better than most other pipes i have tried. the pipe really starts to build power after the pv has opened the lack of bottom end is also not nearly as noticable with a pv setup, the valve makes the tq, and the pipe carries it out. so to speak.. on a 421 cub that i did i didnt really really like them as much as the shears. but that was my OPINION!!! on a pv motor IF it is set up RIGHT these pipes will compliment a high exhaust port very well. that being said if you are going to run a fixed exhaust motor and its in the 200+ range on a light frame with an easy load. ( light rider) they should work very well. from what i have HEARD k+t's TREX pv motors ran the best with these pipes. i have no idear if they are still being made today. i personally have 2 sets. one set on my 535 ( they just work) and one set that was ran on a 400pv cheeta. that are now hangin g on the wall i want to try them out with the stock cylinder 350 i am doing for next season. also from what i have heard racer's edge dosen't make them anymore but you might be able to get a new set from k+t might ask your racers edge buddy about that??

FMF gold series are more low end than t-6? umm okayy

HOLY SHIT BATMAN

look like bills silencers or paul turner silencers... uuu nice sound clip?

as with any motor bad build and/or horrible tunning will make it melt down.. nicko usually doesn't get damaged its the aluminum underneath that fails. coolant likes to eat it out when its very hot ( like when you blow an o-ring or head gasket) if you take care of the motor and it is built right they should and can last a very long time. most fail from trying to get more power out of them than is possible, or bad setup . it is not a good idear to sleeve a cub cylinder ( yea i know some have done it bla bla bla i wont)

ti, carbon fiber, mag, ;lots of drilled out shit, etc etc.. hell my lard ass LSR weighs 280lbs.

you can get parts through works OR you can find most all the seals and o-rings locally i'm sure. oil is just 5wt to 10wt shock oils. works charges a shit ton for the shipping on their stuff.. internal stuff you'd need to get straight from them OR you can try racetech.

just another carburetor. google search airplane carburetor and then look for altitude compensating for some interesting things.

or at least for a good weather snap. eventually texas blows some hotter air up this way

yes. but all alluminum OEM front end off another bike..

to far for me. hey you can let me run that ole cheeta for a while!

buy the other motor slap it in that chassis and ride er.... OR strip the entire bike budget about 4k and rebuild it all

we shot a bunch of idears back and forth a long time ago. the way the front tubes were redone was one of the things i remembered suggesting.. but i'm sure anyone with experience in fab work would have chozen the same route. it just works the best..after staring at the frame for hours, at least, it made the most sense to me.. and of course that being said i'm in no way taking credit for anything on that build its bad ass and you did an excellent job on it. so please dont take my comments the wrong way. enough he said she said bullshit around here. hell this thread hasn't even gotten any pics in it yet.

that a hell of a price. hope you treat it right and build it well.

fmf's on a drag ported 350 on alky sure was fun.... i think i ran that bike for snakehunt back when this thread was started.... damn that wass longgg time ago.

there are a few drag bikes running the lectron downs on big motor banshee setups. i cannot rember the posts or the specific threads but they were seeing a substantial increase in top end power. the curve is taken out of the intake. i did another quick banshee downdraft carb google search but didnt really see anything worth posting here.. worst case. call fbg.. order a set ripem up

most right alky domes are a lil less comp and more mild of a velocity setup. most gas domes in cubs are either really loose to make them live or really tight for performance and who cares if they blow up clearance. usually a few simple squish tests will tell you width and clearance. on gas 50+ clearance and around a 10mm band width max would run ok. there are a lot of other variables but in simple terms that should be ok. you can even start at 0 timing and work your way up checking plug strap color with each change.

big bore. done

with no porting done at max bore sell them on ebay for 20 bucks and buy another set of stockers at like 64.5 or less. ride on.. i'm guessing that with no cyl work your motor is very close to stock internals anyways..