camatv

use a low pressure fuel pressure gauge. i'll post a link nice BIG gauge and easy to read. i'm not sure if there is a post in the "build" thread but i use a T fitting and link both sections together not just rely on the crank labrynth seal to leak. something like this works great. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Carburetor-Valve-Fuel-Pump-Pressure-Vacuum-Tester-Gauge-Test-Kit-Car-Truck-/170971391604?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item27ceb06674&vxp=mtr most auto parts stores have them in stock for around 20-25 bucks. i have a few fittings setups for twins and singles ( pvc) then just transfer my gauge. after i built mine a few years ago its been a great asset. any good 2 stroke guy this should be number one on ANY issue related to runability. i have been amazed at the leaky intakes i have found and center cases with blown sections on the bottom from bad build quality. i even used it when i built the intake for my teryx to bench test it before i ran it.

they just do not spin the tires. i launch mine at idle. the available pipes all fucking suck ass. the cpi has had good views but the one i took of i dont think did shit. it probably would have ran the same with a 4 stroke exhaust on it.. phhh

nice!! hell my winter teardown is a good purge and park it in the corner.. did that for the last 5 years..

shave 30 tho off of it check squish clearance. or just get a NOSS head already.

should be fine. start at 4 d timing and work up from there.

if the bottom end is solid look for just a replacement cyl like a serval. other than that depends on what your whole motor package consists of. of course just getting another set of nice low bore stock cylinders and boring, re piston is the lowest cost solution. any aftermarket cyl is going to need a lot to get it to live and run well.

i have a cr500 conversion i can post up my pipe build....

the first one is actually still sitting here. i'm really thinking of this winter getting it all the way done its just about ready to go i just need to finish the radiator plumbing, and then install a motor and do the electrical and finish carb airbox etc. wacko and i discussed a lot of idears back and forth on the issues i had and how i planned to overcome them. after looking at the bike i think a lot of what we discussed got used. PLUS sleeper i am sure put a lot of input into that bike also. his is a beautiful example for sure. my biggest issue is i spent so much time on the one i have now getting the exhaust to fit just right follow the plastics like i wanted that i couldn't bring myself to tear it apart to do this other one i have envisioned. i had originally planned to use the lsr xluw rear linkless geo, the alluminum wide OEM front end and a yfz top section to use plastics and tank etc off the yfz. and that MAY still happen.. i just got this other roller sitting here and looking at it it may be easier to use.. no matter what one or the other will get built and i'll post pics of it in here.. worst case i build this 2nd yfz and sell it with a nice midrange motor in it. ( any takers?) i have a lot of plans for the full custom, leather engraved seat, fully polished front end, probably a fully smoothed chassis no matter which design. the last one of these i decided ok i'm going to hit it hard was the wife's bike it took 3 years to do, mostly due to fundage and my desire to do it the way i envisioned it no matter what the cost. the yfz's parts that are good is everything except the crank and maybe the piston and cyl i'm sure the oil pump and oil tank is probably jacked but everything else is got to go. i listed everything on the local craigslist. i'll take pics as it goes!!

2 seconds on google... http://www.dragbike.com/dbnews/templates/fast1320_z11.aspx?articleid=5574&zoneid=11

not sure why people think k+t's porting is so bad ass.. they can just build a nice motor and know how to set up the entire bike... if you put their cyls next to any other GOOD shop its hard to tell a difference.. k+t does use a pretty distinctive exhaust port shape. not that others have not tried the same style.. all i'm going to say i have rode a very brutal 350cc k+t ported stocker back in the day.. but those cylinders and the guy that owned them even said they are very very special ( $$$). they ate pistons like crazy and ended up breaking after a short period of time. BUT they were drag only cyls.

boom http://www.ebay.com/itm/Chrome-CREE-lights-Motorcycle-LED-fog-running-cruiser-chopper-headlight-6000K-mx-/370945112670?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item565e0d3a5e&vxp=mtr put motorcycle LED headlights in search...

ok soooo i just secured another yfz chassis with a blown motor. the crank let go and its a mess... so that fart can motor is coming out and a real engine is going in. i decided to do another conversion BUT i am going to be working with some good friends ( hopefully) and also using a completely different front end, ( all alluminum BIG brakes) stretch the chassis and build a nutty dunner/ drag bike. as it goes i'll post up some pictures of it.. if anyone needs yfz motor parts let me know. its completely disassembled.

yup. i haven't had my meds in 2 weeks..

i told ya it was freezing up there. !!

then why did you ask about getting the trans upgraded?? i'm sure there are peeps on here that say i ran my _______ ( random motor) with all stock clutch, trans, non welded crank, and completely stock bottom end and it was fine.. i know plenty of shops that never even recommend that stuff.. until after there are problems. i personally think there are more posts about failures from lack of a good build in this forum than any other. Almost EVERY issue in the help sections and --help me my ____ is fucked up! -- posts are results of cutting corners. almost all the others are maintenance related. or just plain ole shitty parts failures. ( hey SH it happens) of course this is my opinion.. i dont build unreliable crap...

street bikes are seeing big gains there is someone on here running them on banshee based drag motor with big topend gains also.

torrs wiring has nothing to do with idle. unless the electrical side of the system is tripped.. only thing torrs does is sense if one of the slides is open and the other is shut. then it engages a rpm limiter. if your synch is so far off that this happens it will trip the torrs system. i see this a lot on bikes with it still on there. ( few these days) another thing i see often is the cable holder in backwards.. the slide relief hole needs to be exposed not cover'd up by the cable holder. on the torrs boxes the big screw on the back is for idle speed but it needs synched. then there is a few screws in the front on the cable where it comes in that set your of idle carb synch. if the torrs idle screws are adjusted to hard they will break the idle stops and never work right again.. an repair manual should explain all of this , except the broken parts that happen just get a delete kit unless you really understand the torrs setup.. they have their own quirks and setup issues.. buy a real carb synch replace your intake boots ( yes ripped boots are the problem) and get a leakdown tester. there is information on this site on how to build one i have a slightly different design that i feel works better but any would work well. the number one rule is you cannot accurately jet any 2 stroke if the motor has air leaks.

dont worry your not the only one.. from the crap work that shows up here there are plenty of "banshee friends" that have no fucking clue. i fix all kinds of bullshit that was dropped off as "it just needs jetting" complete reseal motor leak test later might be able to get somewhere. most times in this area it results in "you dont know shit" and "your just trying to screw me" bullshit crap. usually months later they are back. and its in worse shape then ever... best one related to this was a local machine shop that builds auto motors did a set of cylinders for a guy. he brought the bike and the top end he told me they were ready to drop on. they bored them with the intakes and reeds inplace! then left them completely dirty and full of grinding material and bore mud.. WOW! had to get new reeds and they guy didnt know why i needed intake gaskets... but at least the piston to wall spec was right i mean really its right there on the damn box

guess i'll just keep my bullshit comments to myself then.. i'd like to find another set of dmr's also. but i'm sure according to n2slow they suck too. ok all i will say is if you call clippard the company and ask for "power jets" they will have no idear what the hell your talking about. they make industrial connection parts. good luck

hey sand is sand.. after you get there tanner find any local atv or dirt sxs shop. ask them where to go ride

v4's for drop in replacement. or just replacement reeds. if you dont want to spend 200 bucks then vforce is out. but you want the best for no money?? if you actually have rad valves the later stuffed style you can get replacement reeds for them no problem. probably around 80-100 for the set. rad valves run good on stock setups with stock intakes.. and according to skeet blairs book on 2 stroke performance is all bullshit..

do a stocker 10 mill for me. crankworks will not redo banshee stock webb's anymore

overrides need welded and redone stuff to make them work they are actually in 2 gears at the same time... modded needs no changes to the chifting actions of the drums now of course i get some in here that are damaged and need fixed or replaced.. the ramps are jacked up from a jam. im really considering a complete billet type drum to replace existing rewelds. my theories on the trans i have a ton of idears on the actual shift shaft changes, involving ratchet pawl changes, reinforcement chages etcetc some main shaft changes involving bearings ( like ktm) and some other tings involving heat treating recut parts.. but i dont want to go into detail's

might check plug clearance also.... over 10mm wide is just asking for problems. 8-9.5 works great.. other factors affect a lot also.

thats the best way to break it in. make sure jetting is pretty good, fluid levels are all good, run it full throttle every gear.. break it in hard. 32-1 mix ratio... if you want to run beanoil first tank then switch to synth thats fine too. if the place that MAKES the oil recommended it might not be a bad idear