cwdaniel

Sounds like a mod to the slots for more travel is in order.

What would going back to a stock ratio do to it's character in the sand. I'm not the rider, just the pit crew. I'm assuming stock ratio adds a little more low end. Sounds counter productive in the sand.

Source for a strong half link? I have heard that it's not advised on a cycle chain.

My thoughts exactly. So this is what I came up with: Got a smoking deal on a pair of stock air boxes. One with a K&N and outer wear and one stock. Cut the bottom out, some booty fab brackets to support where the original frame tabs gone. I think this will do fine.

Recently installed chain on a 13 and 41 tooth sprocket combo was a tad long at max adjustment. Too tight at minimum. Now it's stretched a little but still too short to remove a link. It came to me with these sprockets I've assumed were stock. Is it? What tooth count would get it in the adjustable range?

That's a slick setup. I like the concept.

Genuine as they come in a K&N box. Unless there are imposters out there. Interesting we seem to be unique suffering from this. Is there any carb changes through the years that would have a more or less suitable clamp surface? Even the previous owner had the same problem.

K&N RU-0210 they fit fine. And we do our best to keep them tight and clean. Though the rider isn't very diligent. I've found you can't over tighten them or it will squeeze them off. Not much shoulder on the carb. I'm thinking a more narrow OEM type clamp would be better.

What I’m working with: 2002 Banshee, mostly stock other than no TORS and air box replaced with K&N pods. FMF pipes. “Boost tube” intake crossover. Runs just fine in the dunes for my son. I’m not the rider, just the pit crew. The problem: For the second time now we have lost an intake filter and sucked sand and ruined the rings. Also for the 2nd time I have found cracks in the connection for the crossover tube on the carb boots. Looking for some recommendations on upgrades/improvements for more durable/reliable pieces. Is this “boost tube” doing anything significant over the stock crossover tube? I suspect that the added mass of the part vibrating is cracking the boots. Or possibly the un supported weight of the carbs without the air box.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OZIJIfcDavI&feature=youtube_gdata_player Finally getting back to this beast. The video shows the play on the shift pawl. Looks to much to me. A new shift shaft at the dry least? Trying to keep it cheap as I had to address some really sloppy big end rod bearings on the crank.

What exactly is a stock modified trans and why would I want it?

Crack pipe or not, you guys have solved my mystery I think. Thanks

Pics of the various components. Further fiddling shows it shifts fine with no gears in place. Shift forks maybe? They all are a little loose on the fit with their shafts.

They measure 13 and I'm sure the A-arms are extended. That's why I'm looking for the stock baseline number. The suppliers seem to just describe them by the +number

I wish I would have researched a bit better before I tore it all down. Even some clues were in the manual, but I went on the advice of some “experts” around the camp. I will post up some pictures later when I get home. In the meantime, yes it seems like it shifts okay. With an intermittent stall half way through gears in either direction. The “jaws” seem centered on the arm and the spring brings it back from both directions. What seems wrong to me is the jaws appear sloppy on their pivot point on the arm. The jaw part can move out of plane/parallel from the arm. It seems like this movement prevents enough pressure on the pins to overcome the detent spring on the star part sometimes. Is there normally a lot of play in the jaw to arm pivot? Makes sense to me this part would get beat up. The rider quite often is banging it through the gears to get through the whoops and charge a hill climb.