camatv

thats a fat radiator! nice. its great to see more of these coming along that actually look right. this is what yamaha SHOULD have built... or even better brought back the rz pv motor in this frame instead of a detuned "yfz throwback model"

all the trans work is done here by me. i did have to farm out some of it in the past but then decided to spend the money and do everything here. i have 2 lathes and 4 mills. one cnc but not up and running yet.

i did this on an mx bike about 15 years ago. just shove them in as far as they will go, silicone, then zip tye if you feel necessary. most times anymore its not necessary because the caps are what usually fails. if i rember right the taylor wires have more internal resistance than a steel core setup, ( measured by the foot) but the taylor cap has no resistance built in. either way the taylor wires we ran worked just fine. the guy's bike i did this on was so cheap that when his stock basket exploded he actually just got another used stock basket from a hinson conversion i did and tapped the back of it for screw's!

sell them, buy pwk's pwks have a much better running midrange also. i personally hate pj's the idle setup is turd, the needles and seats, floats NEVER stop leaking after it becomes a problem.

so next time i go ride i can claim that everyone in that area stole my ( insert bikes here) and then the cops will confiscate every single one of them.

you got some gremlins.. very strage to have that low of comp even on a non broke in motor. thats probably why the cyl is not firing very weak comp but usually on a 60 lbs motor kicking they wont start without a pull. anything less than 100 and they get hard to start.

most of the "kits" just use budget china bearings. i believe there are a few "budget kits" with seals on easybay. or just call one of the sponsors for bearings. most times the kits singl row are in the 20 buck range and twin row in the 35-40 rangish.

my banshee framed trail bike was a blast. of course the outlaw was much more fun but its gone now. ( sadface) i ran 30mm pwk's 350 with a lot of midrange, t6 pipes, +2 arms with a stock length round house swingarm, actual 250r rear axle with dual caliper brakes, 87 banshee front spindles and big calipers on the front, one finger brakes on the front yea. anti vibe stem and of course all the lower end stuff the recipe is pretty much the same what works works.. i have an ole 87 im going to slap back together just to go out and do wheelies on when i get bored in the teryx. it will be very similar. but i have a set of SLP pipes for it.

thats even the 3 bolt pinch hub. yfz, honda 4 bolt hub would probably be even lighter.

yup and a multiple bore size engine is going to twist a crank out of phase........ the transfers might be bleeding some off and doing a lil bit of weird stuff on the intake charge. but hey if your cheap and just want to ride..... again. if your going to go through all the trouble of getting new cylinders or sleeving both used ones then match boring and new pistons probably be the same price as a cleaned up serval or cub.... if your ok with running 66mm then run it. its out there on a stock cylinder and your chances of skirts breaking are pretty high. or not.. depends on the ride time.. i have had people tell me their motors built by bla bla have lasted over 6 years. but they ride the bike 2 times a year at festivals. and basically just put out the the big dunes and down to the bathrooms.. it can get really easy to way overthink these kinds of situaions... rember K. I. S. S.

couple thoughts. dave's "dream build" would be a lot of fun to ride. if your stock cylinders are in good shape then why not just run them on the build. if the bottom end is done right the top end can be switched out later. i'd do the trans work on a bone stock bike. it to me makes all the difference in the world. my ole trail bike i ran 15/39 ( actual honda axle in it) i loved it in he trails but my 350 was setup to be very broad power. just crused around in 3rd and 2nd most all the time. with the trans work you can mostly shift with no clutch at all. just let off for a split second make the shift and on ya go. down shifts same way the "hot rods" brand cranks are all that i will use anymore. on 10 mills i like tdr's forged cranks. so whoever you get the crank from INSIST its a hot rods , a billet anodized basket is a must along with a bearing pusher. lockup is not really necessary. you would be surprised what a good clutch can hold down for power with just 15% springs. cr lever setup with quick adjust your set! unless your running really heavy paddle and riding in really heavy sand , and slip the clutch a lot ( not necessary if the motor has midrange) you might look into a lockup. but even then on riders i dont like them unless the motor is just too stout and its eating clutches. ( only time that happens is on bigg heavy paddle sand drag builds so far.) just a few idears.

if the red grey is a legitimate buy thats a good buy. id ditch the twist throttle before you even ride it. then if wanted drop cc size or just run race fuel in it. looks like a great starter package for the price. nearly too good to be true really..

its a place to go IF you live out there. and nobody does..

id like to go but the pics from last year it looked like about 6 trailers in a circle..

i heard he was recruited to be an assassin. something about being a good sniper...

hah thats because nasa dosent have an open forum...

id say no.. the kind of shock a carier will get will break ceramics to bits. just my opinion..

ok as far as the crakenstien. i personally watched a few of them run out here when i got into the sport. they were bad ass. really truly "custom" motors as far as i'm concerned. a while back there was what i would call the ultimate cranker. i dont know who built it and the owner that had listed it was really vague on its existence also. it was some kind of billet blocked jetski, snomo twin motor on a set of billet cases i think it was in the range of a 950 - 1100cc? it had the pipes down the center of the frame like crankers. it was absolute bad ass in my mind.. i dont know what happened to it dont know if he ever sold it. never seen it anywhere at all. the owner claimed it cost in the 30 k range to build didnt look like it ever was even ran. and the person that built it had since passed away?? i think with the transmission updates that have happened and other advances in tech these could have been a much better setup these days.. but then again the dm's and dmx's are nearly all bolt together and just involve $$$ anyways..

leak test your coolant system. shake the flywheel if it rattles magnets are coming apart. also look across the top if its warped may have been taken off with a 3 jaw.. thats a dead giveaway. check ground drop on the stator plate to the main ground on the harness also.

yup when the 65.5 eats it sleeve that cyl and then bore both to 64.5 or buy a serval, or buy 2 same bore cyls in low bore or big sleeve and 68mm.. lots of options when you cook a motor these days

sleeve the cyl you have. match port size to 64mm. run it. i have ran diff sizes in the past with mx bikes that have had one side failures. its no big deal.

do a leak test. check your intakes for leaks. make sure your throttle cable is routed right and dosent affect idle when you turn the bars. but i'd say mostly do a leak test first.

oh good gravy!!! there are 2 numbers CAST in the intake. what are they!! i can see them in the pic but cannot read them. they are on the INSIDE of the reed area that says what the bore and STROKE the cylinder was setup for.. NOW that said its not to say that at some time it was originally blowed sky high. replated and resetup by milleinum, or even reported different setup by someone else. no way of knowing except to measure the cyl height, measure the port layout, and then go from there...

get the hinson straight cut set up. HUGE upgrade to the clutch backing plate and springs instead of rubba cusions.

trex is easy to update. its a highly under rated cylinder. to me its superior to the cubs, servals. the only thing is its not geared to the easy peasy crowd like the cub and serval is. so because of this they are stated to be junk. they can be converted easily to use the same pistons. TDR supports them. and from time to time ones like that pop up.