camatv

wow that "kit" on easy bay is about 650? with head, domes and more junky ass gaskets.

put it on alky then run the t-3's

exactly my point.

wonder if he won..

35, 36, 38 most popular db sizes.

my 40mm's are crisp as can be.. on a 350..

price a complete petcock. and /or k+s and others have petcock rebuild kits available.

look around in the case for any other tid bits and/or flush the hell out of the cooling system, most times something jammed in between the gear or impeller causing it to stick like that.

hmmm my bad.

pair price?

man to bad i dont live closer... i'd come down and help out

wow. t-3's are not drag phaipees maine. flat lands try 10 extreme to 12 extreme. stags if you want a lil more out of the hole. i bet the 8's were one of the reasons the bike seemed fast.

these kinds of posts are why i dont feel much of a need to "suggest" anything anymore. and like hell if you can get a sponsor to come on here and 'suggest" any fixes..

your striving to do the same thing . increase cylinder pressure. do it with timing, or compression. then you have to have the motor stay together also..

dang at least i said 90%..

its a very common newb mistake. i did it way back in like 92 on my first clutch change..

done!

those are great frame update pics on that site.

wow if thats out of a compression tester. thats scary... mattoon machine has a nice anodized billet basket, and all the small engine bolt kits you would need. you should be able to find a decent pro design head or preferably NOSS cool head. the OEM impeller will be just fine in that motor. they are actually one of the best water pump setups i think. new bearing and seal IF it needs it and your good to go. just get a k+s seal kit and cometic top end gaskets with OEM clutch cover gsket.. or just OEM crank seals .... then use a new o-ring set IF you get a prodesign head shell you will need studs also.i believe a chariot head would be just fine too. porting is a whole nother thread.

coil wire maybe shorted to ground or something like that..

take all the packing out.. please don't..

the packard's i have seen are usually rethreaded pj to fit. clippard makes 2 differnt control jets. one has a 1/4 pipe thread other is like a 10/32.. packards is custom cut from the larger pipe thread style. ( at least most of the ones i have seen) then also uses a larger tube to go down to the venturi some are drilled larger some are the stockish 70 tho? .. changing the pj takes some checking to see what you actually have there. other thing maybe to just send all 3 to packard and have him fix up the other and match the one dual pj alky style.. or do some measureing and see what you have in the internal part.

best jetting answer i have ever seen..

i have seen some very old hotrods 10mm cranks they are super rare but out there if you make crank weebs its NOTHING to reset the machine to add 5mm more stroke to the webb.. escpecially if its a cnc cut. 10mm should cost the same as a stock stroke . so should 4 mills.

just get longer brake lines. the stainless makes for a pretty much one finger brake too. i mean they are like 60 bucks these days! if you have the older big front brakes those do take different lines just so you know.