camatv

wait a minute.. those graphs are showing 48-49 hp.. thats horrible.. those look like just a stocker with a set of phhiaps on it..

move the band over 1000 - 1500 rpm..

yea... its the way it seems.. so im tard and bought a yz250 AND a ktm 380 2 strokes. thinking one of these might just have to find its way into the 2nd yfz 450 chassis i have... hmmmm

millennium..

from what cheeseburger grease? they do clog and a LOT of time complaints i have seen from them just running like shit was from clogged/ stuck valves..

in my opinion if you dont have to use billet DONT! the tdr ( the 900 buck one) in my 535 has about 9 million passes. not just a trailer queen. its over 6 years old and running just fine. i have seen others with billets go through 2-3 cranks or more in that time.

looks like a pt mid motor. falls off at 8k... BUT if you want a fun rideable motor these are great. t6's can do this also. but i dont think fall off as hard on the top end. i mean most 2 stroke pipes have a 2k power range. if you start looking for these in graphs you will see them pretty easily. then you can match the porting to whatever the pipe likes the most OR port out of the range of the pipe and have a total mess. i see this a lot..

AHH its a zeeltronic. that might be an rz a/c stator also.

http://www.twostrokeshop.com/ hmm looks familiar..

the usb to rs port adapters dont work for shit. dont know what kind it is be interesting to see..

glass bead can hurt the case hardening, walnut or shell works great, ultrasonic with rust solution is the better choice. OR Evaporust. you would need to baby sit it i use this stuff all the time its amazing. i buy a lot of vintage tooling and some scrap steel from time to time. works good on rusty gas tank too. you can get it at any decent auto parts store for around 20 bucks. get a plastic container from the local wally world, and your in business.

yea.. it ran that et with issues/. to me if it would launch hard enough, more predictable. the et would improve a lot. and probably get more mph out of it. when it goes on boost it accelerates very very fast. at least what a 250lb bike with 200hp should. i think.

welp that solves it for me. unless you have 4-6 months of dyno and porting/ setup time they dont run for shit. ( probably because unlike the 421 cub, they are not pretty damn close right out the box...) soooooooo.. if your considering a larger than 421 cub you are best ro use redline.. OR another builder that can post similar dyno sheets... ( uh huh,..)

where's the rest of this beast..

check the edges of the outsides of the base gasket.. would have been good to do a leak test before tear down BUT it needs to completely come apart. check crank or replace if needed.

yup they suck from what i have heard no one will even race this bike

man most supers i have been around were pretty slow i felt and blew the head off all the time. i'm sure that has been ironed out. the reason you dont see any 535 pv graphs is no one really has one anymore. i think 10millmike? posted one in another thread. but even his was a block off motor. none the less that serval is pretty stout , and if it takes redline to do those kinds of number because of a special order pipe you better just go with them. i dont think you will be unhappy.

aah screw it i'm just selling everything and building up my 50 ford.

the PILOT can make a big difference.. again change the problem.. try a 50 then a 40 then go from there. i would just be concerned that after you change needle, and get it to rev by smaller needle and smaller main it wont have enough on top to stay alive. the problem you have right now is it is monster rich at idle and right off idle. there is so much fuel in the pipes it would probably take 3 miles wfo to finally blow it all out and start to pull if it ever got to that point.. then i bet the tank would be dry..

pv cheeta. have your cake and eat it too. 485 pv cheeta will rip your arms out AND rev i attempted to dune mine on alky it was a bit much with a 6 over.

sent pm

its pushed off the spring. BUT if you pushed the shifter side after the cover was off that may have happende then. you could try and realign the spring back on there. and see if it shifts ok. with the spring way out ike that it probably had one or two shifts? or wouldnt shift at all? the only thing that holds that shifter in place is a small nubby on the inside of the clutch cover.

get the signal cleaned up then go from there.. i agree stockish banshee setups with the stock carbs, and that shit pipe dont work. at least not more than one time out of about 30 tries. of course its attempting to use 1960's turbo tech and expecting it to work.

chese n rich jet the pilot down. you messed with everything except what was wrong.. if the powerjet wont supply enough fuel with the smaller dumps they can lean out on a longer run. especially if its a cub. they need a lot of fuel to stay alive. this is what i would try first. get a 125 main, drop needle to middle position. drop slow untill it will idleok and only takes about 1 sec to clean out from just sitting. it needs to rev easy just sitting after a quick clean out.. then open pj all the way and ride it should fall on its face as you hit full throttle. if not your right on the edge of being to lean on the main, and power jet. if it falls on its face turn pj down a 1/4 of a turn untill it pulls. it might blubber a tad on top and you can then install new plugs and fine tune from there. then as the weather changes during the day you may have to richen or lean for temps on the main. if it gets to the point its to lean on the pilot you can then go spend another hour in the pits changing pilots to a larger step or raising needle to get it tamed down. with lectrons you could just move the needle down without even taking the carbs off and most likely right there where you were doing your initial tune at. most times i have the needle set and the idle good before it even goes out for the first run sometimes a small needle adjustment is needed but it takes about 5 minutes then as the temps change they are not nearly as picky on tune.