camatv

they are just that old.

who the fuck has an all stock banshee dyno run on EVERY dyno post they have?? i have NEVER seen one. hell most dont even have a baseline from a starting point.. in fact post your "before turbo" set up on the stock motor and the after because you must have them right? i mean according to what you just posted the after dyno graphs are completely irrelevant? i'm just going to document what i do how i do it and then post up a graph from either JSR performance or from gigots dyno in garden city.. then you all can be butt hurt about it and/or bitch about how its this and that and not relevant to my goals. phhhh i will ask jsr if he maybe has one from back in the 90's when someone still had an all stock banshee

even their banshee pistons are getting cheaply made now they lack gas rings and are heavier than the older ones. i say keep your retarded sack and give us back the better quality wiseco cranks are ok. their baskets are OK BUT you HAVE to do a rear bolt, cusion update to them i have never seen such a shit design on the attaching screwes from them. i sill prefer a hotrods fully welded, with big bearings. wiseco did have a few recalls on the china import cranks they were running in a bunch of dirt bikes. the taiwan manu or the japan manu for cranks is fine. ( pro cross rods are japan made as is ART pistons )

just play with it if you have a portable tank. my rear is at 1300psi..

BANZAI!

in the sand.

jd is awesome!

you need to do a proper synch. just " messing" with the screwes on the backs your probably way off on the settings. PLUS did you completely remove the slow jets and spray carb clean through them AND use compressed air to blow through every passage in the carb? the slow jets are still plugged. its causing a lean condition to happen as it comes off the choke circuit. keep it up and your going to cook the motor.

deff looks like an updated lectron in the float area pretty cool you can change out the dump tubes.. i like the fact of the circlips on the floats BUT i feel just using a hung float wold have been better anyways... easy tension is the reason for a single? and as long as the throttle dosent stick or hang its fine. just a thought.. the way these work its going to have to have a sealed float chamber. with a drain the float wont be able to pressure match to the incoming signal.. its the one thing thats scary about them if the float sticks like you have already dealt with your looking at a hydrolocked motor.. just be sure to shut the fuel off after rides.. and watch the sides for fuel coming up the sides of those feed tubes.. that can indicate an overflow condition. i had read those are one way shut off valves but if thats the case there is onkly one other way for the fuel to come out... and thats down the dump.. get it jetted in and then i would love to see how much you have to change it during the different seasons..

wow.

thats why i started a different thread. didn't want to seem like i was trashing anyone's work , i'm not i'm just thinking i can do something similar with just all stock componets. the motor is a blown the hell up 87. i'm sorry but i'm not going to build it to complete stock then tear down and rebuild to what i'm shooting for. all hard parts will be stock i will modify the OEM pipes, use modified stock reeds maybe 2 stage boyesens' but no vforce reeds stock carbs will have an air box .,. stock crank, billet basket, my modded trans ( ye ha!) 64-66mm stock cylinders and stock head. its just i have been contemplating this motor for a while my wife wants a lil turd rider bike but i still want her to be able to get around at the dunes and get up some of the smaller hills without having to rip the shit out of the motor. i have had this build in the back of my mind for a very long time. just now i think it will be fun to try and accomplish my goals.. and NOT be a "pro" shop so to speak. i'm just like a lot of the people on this site. have a real job and just play around with these bikes. i feel if this turns out like i think it can it will be a blast to ride. and if ya come out to HQ ride this year i'd really really like to have it ready. you can rip it around and give an unbiased opinion on the motor DDQ also DDQ i know what your looking for in a graph because i have duplicated that flat curve many many times just not in the last 5 years did i do one AND dyno it for show and tell. i never really felt the need to. i will take lots of pics from this build when i start on it. the graph that zilla showed is a peaker'er graph and your looking for very broad predictable power. i know its a bitch to try and jump a bike that peaks on a face of a jump and yanks the front end up.

you can get any stroke, bore combo. MOST times the intended bore is cast in the intake at ther reed cage sometimes the stroke is in there alos. you can usually measure the height of the cylinder to determin stroke also. if your super cool you can usually guess stroke by the space under the head. if its thick its a lot of stroke. if its thin not so much. so you oh its a 421 cub dicks with 10's yea i see ya. is the 16in stock cases? if it is there should be an ass ton of case work to get the crank to fit. to double check the stroke you can measure that through the plug hole. some of the best running motors i have personally seen were 14 cheeta, and 16 cheeta. one 73 bore adn the other was a 75mm bore. i FEEL the lighter pistons let the motor rev much much easier. cubs are a different casting.

here are some OLD pipe shoot outs on bone stock motors with just jetting changes. http://www.duncanracing.com/misc/3-4WAction_sept95_2.pdf . these are completely stock motor. i rember when this came out way back in the days. (1995) and then there are these also. we ran pro circuit, fmf fatty and SST and PSI pipes back then. i peronally liked the pc's the best for the overall power and control . http://www.angelfire.com/extreme2/yambanshee/techtips/pipes/pipeinfo.html and then this one that was also in a mag.. we ran PSI pipes and pro circuits at the time. ( mx days)

so in another thread there has been some discussion about a ported banshee motor that is in the 44hp range but makes it nice a flat for a rider or mx motor. another posting in that thread shows a paltry 58mph out of a mx motor.. i'm just throwing this out there. i will say this i BET i can build a better performing motor using absolutely stock parts.. even pipes. i am even intrigued by this and would take the time to build one and dyno it but its going to be a while i have a lot of other stuff to do. anyone want to wager on this deal? i'm saying i can produce over 48hp with ALL stock components in a fart can style power band.. i started this thread for you, ddq, sheerider rage cajun and whoever doubts the " skilzz" i poses.. post those graphs in here. so we know what to base these off of. you dont have to state who built it dosent matter to me. i'm not wanting to trash anyones work i'm just starting this as more of a personal challenge to me. i'm going to look at it this way.

again.. 58mph? is this a joke? i dont want to jack up this thread anymore i'll start a new one. but just for clarification.... The MX bikes i helped with were way back in the 98-2001 seasons. they ended up top 3 in the division that year. myself was 3rd state champion in c class. no i dont own a dyno. all my testing is done here in the sand and on the dirt. i look for complete package.. really i dont care i dont feel the need to defend MY personal work against these kinds of numbers. i dont run a shop, have a store front, sell parts at all. believe me the first motor i did way back in the days was a total turd. ( but even then it was better than the "pro" ct motor i had paid big bucks for at the time..) so since then been looking at different ways to get power.

just picked up a 64 chevy 1 ton with a flat bed, v8 and granny 4 speed. its a beater but sure is fun to drive. love watching the uppity run in the parking lot when i come bouncing in there.

sent pm about 1 day service.

those sir are on an outlaw chassis. from what i knew they were custom made for them. you might be able to use the weld on yfz style and make the mounts for them if you like.

at least its a nice font

import grey. 6-7 bucks any parts store. not as stringy as yamabond, not as pricey as that shit 1211.

TEFLON TAPE??? REALLY!???

he said merica.. i about fell on the floor laughing at this one. i think if you buy junk you should just toss it up to the oops factor.. and there is plenty of crap even on this forums sale pages.. if in the future you have any concerns about an ebay auction you could post a link and ask an opinion from the high quality assholes on this site. rest assured you will get a honest no frills no bullshit blow crap up fuckyea answer. believe dat

infact if anyone wants to say that i personally build bike with "light switch power can feel free to hit me up at the hq ride or at the dunes when i am there. you can toss a leg over the 350 welded cyls i did and then tell me its a "light switch peak only " band. it takes tq to get a 300lb fat fuck moving, especially on a 350cc motor. hell my wife still trail rides it around and its on alky. ( or gas if i want takes 15 minutes to convert it to pump gas,, 2 needle changes and a flip of a dyna switch to a gas curve.)

the stocker 350 mx bikes i have done all hit in the 60- 65hp range were very rideable, and ran great.. the last purpose built t-6 motor i did was never dyno'd. i built it for tq and it had it for sure. that particular port job takes more time than some of the "drag" ports i have done.. its an asston of work in the transfer tunnel and trans port area's most the STOCK OUT THE BOX 450's around here yfz's are 42-45 hp. i'm not sure where i said someones work was "horrible???" i'm not dogging anything, or anyones work just not seeing where a 40hp banshee is "fun>????" even the shit 250r i raced back in the late 90's was in the 48hp range.. i mean my ole 421 stocker on gas was around 80hp and had in the 50-55ft lbs of tq.. in retrospect that simple build made more TQ than these graphs are showing in hp!>!> DDQ i have already offer'd to do a mx motor for you anyways,. i'm to fat and old to ride a mx bike anymore but would love to get one in the hands of someone who wants to mx one. i will say this if you not in shape its still going to be a handfull BUT you would out accelerate most any 4 blow bike, it would be a predictable power not jerky or pipey.. and corner to corner/ jump predictablility is super important.. you should know that if anyone i understand not "peak" hp and also that "girlfriends" dont need 70hp rockets. hell my wife when she stepped up to the banshee i built here was in the 60hp range she dogged it around in the trails and putted around at the dunes with it everywhere.. it was a nice broad hp. i really wish i would have kept that graphs from all those years ago the guy who dyno'd it was suprised that it was basically a platu line like you are posting just in the higher hp ranges where a port would expect to be at.. her first one was a 350cc motor 65mm bore, ported, stock head stock reeds with 2 stage boyesen's and a modded trans that was pretty much it. have you had the chance to dyno a bone stock banshee with maybe just basic good tune and an air box delete yet??

you pretty much got it right there. i'd just buy carb kits now and replace needle and seats. you would probably be suprised how easily they will "turn on" after sitting a long time. the clutch might be stuck together also.