camatv

if it sold why did it get relisted?? seems like a schill bid to me.

how much is he wanting for them? i might buy them look like modified tomeys OR trinity's modded pipes? the silencers if they are the ones that came with them look like old FMF's or trinity silencers. been a bunch of these types of pipes poping up lately. seems people are switching to real drag pipes adn selling the old ones. i thought CT used round silencers? and were all hand coned not just the mid sections? never seen any jemco pipes?

i always heard camel toe worked well fror alignment.

make sure the hoses are routed right THEN fill it to the middle of the HIGH /LOW marks and leave it alone..

banshee's i like 3-8 psi depending on sand. if it bites to hard air them up. if it slips too much let them down. i have ran down to 2 psi before. much less than that and i guess i just get a lil scared! most time i'm in the 4-5 psi range.

in gas motors i use walmart brand outboard mix. its excellent. i just split a gas cub and i can take a few pics of it it looks like you pored the oil straight down the motor everything is coverd in the stuff and its been sitting all winter long.. very clean burn very clean oil and at an actual reasonable price it wont mix with alky.. i just use klotz for alky i dont like all that black goopy shit all over the place with castrol and its prone to guming up everything. the PV motors didnt like the stuff much if you dont like the way it smell buy some fuel stinky

i have redone a few absolute TURDS in the past. its amaxing what they can look like after a nice wash and some touch up. the cr500 trike i have went threw a few FULL frames before i was happy with it and it STILL dosent have the frame powdercoated yet i plan on redoing the subby and some of the ignition mounts and radiator mounts some day.. i just bought another roller chassis. no motor so it will be the "practice" one just going to throw together a simple 350cc motor i am planing on using a diff radiator adn doing the mounts MUCH differnt. i'll take pics as i start on it.

bumpski

need needle. if the needle is as rich as possible it will NEVER run right needles are designed for center or one clip lean or one clip rich the last 2 clip pos's on the top and bottom the the needle are for jetting help they are there to help the tuner kinda understand what the motor wants.. you should probably start with a KNOWN needle that works in those carbs. THEN jet from there you cannot state jetting for a needle that is possibly not used in others carbs.; depending on needle taper and diameter, will affect the ENTIRE jetting range. and cause you to have weird slow and mains compared to someone with a diff needle. the slide cut out also matters. the only needles i have much experience with on pwk's is the custom needle that LRD did for that carb with that needle i usually ended up in the 35-42 slow jet, and between 140-165! mains' motors are differnt and they all just need jetted specifically to what the motor wants...

you need to cinsider your riding style. what does jeff say ( i'm betting on cpi's?)

i have always liked the simple works steelers for most all riders and weekend warriors they work great. serious MX riders dont get on a banshee. they get smart and buy a suzuki. OR if they really want to kill themselves a outlaw banshee with a 80+hp serval.. i raced for a long time mx (1998-2001) i wasnt an A class rider but even with a very well built MX banshee after riding a BZONE stock suzuki 450r i was convinced that it was a much more supior machine for MX racing. MUCH more comfort and the egro was so much better. i could slide it through corners full power and NOT hit any part of my body on anything even the front fenders are far enough forward to clear its just crazy... of course thats my opinion. NOW being that said. i DO prefer my outlaw banshee for a rider just cause i am a banshee nut at heart.. adn now its just a hobby and i am a fat ass Ha

yoda and chuck norris are buds

i know for sure i can go take a dump adn wipe my buttox

find someone to help you that knows what to do. even if you have to PAY them mikuni's i'd think 30 slows and 300 mains BUT it all matters on the needle taper as to what to jet it to. you may have to play with jetting to get the slow and main close and then figure out the needle from there. OR call SUDCO and tell them the carbs you have and then get the recomended starting jetting/ needles and mains FOR the banshee.

i've seen around 125ish any less than 100 and you have to pull start them they will run down to about 60 but WOW

lookinf for packards 41's or 40's 38/40's maybe. OR a single 41mm/44 straight up lectron

oh wow just watched the vid um yea can you PLEASE get another vid where yoiu rev it even LONGER in neutral!!! that was awesome!!

carb synch

those are small bores the flange to pipe is nearly the same on BB most people think that just cause the pipe dia is BIG makes thema BIG BORE pipe and they are sold that way. small bores will REV and the BB's will make more TQ on the 10's i personally like the added TQ them larger motors dont really like to rev to 13K anyways.

hmm need to gap at .18 on the plugs, make sure the ignition is REALLY good need oil that mixes with alky castrol 927, klotz supertechniplate and redline alchohol oils? need FRESH alky not that stuff thats in your buddies garage from 2 years ago that he gave you for free if running ANY other carb besides lectrons you will have to drill dump tubes and buy needles and mains and much larger pilots. you will probably blow up a few motors from lean hangs and sucking the bowls dry or wrong jetting etc. if you really want to go to alky the best "noob" alky carb is the lectron set up by PACKARD! MUCH easier to tune and much less likely ( but still will) to blow a motor. its really best to have a experienced alky person help you out the first time

toomey needles really help out they run about 25 each and the toomey jet "Kit" is like 60 bucks. but yea 280-340 main is what you will be in range wise. the jet "kits" out there usually dont even have that big of a main. once you are out of the stock realm its all about needing to understand jetting, OR get someone that actually knows whats up and have them help you. carb synch is extremely important also.

what the heck!! if you are running stock intakes you should most likely use the stuffers that come with the vforce reeds,, i usually open up and match the ones that come with the reeds to larger intakes.. i always match the reeds to the intakes no matter the brand or design. i also prefer the vf3's/ they just seem to be built better. i DO have a few sets of the 2's and they run well also. excellent for a stock bike bolt on upgrade. most times you can jet up a lil bit for them.

i'm NEVER falling asleep around jason EVER i dont know what it is about his ass and weenie that he feels he has to slap on your face !! looks like another good time!> STORM what storm???

wow just race him already WOW

wow hard to understand why silencers with spark aresters made THAT much more power over the whole gap sparkys are known to choke the hell out of pipes.. hmmm?? i have NEVER had ANY bike with CPI's seem to make MORE hp with pro's.. dont get me wrong i like pro circuits but again thats a 421 serval?? on pump gas making similar HP as PORTED STOCK 350CC motors??? EVEN on pump gas!!!! maybe i'm not seeing something there i should??? my 421 stock cylinder on 110oct made a steady 80hp and 55ft lbs of tq. and it was ran on a so called stingy dyno and was an eddy current style with adjust able loads.. even under a hard load it still squeaked out 69hp. that was a STOCK cyl motor.