MorrisJL

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How and why would pump gas blow up an engine with that set-up....? How is race fuel different...?

How would you measure what your cylinder is bored to... is it as easy as taking the head off and measuring your cylinder, or is it more involved then that..? I know the shop where the last rebuild was done I think I will double check with them before taking anything apart... Further... Are sleeves a cheaper option come time to rebuild...? Are sleeves reliable? If I just replace with new cylinders and pistons... what can I expect from a performance stand point going back to stock size... Should I have to worry about replacing any rods or crankshaft components? Would it require jetting...? I know some very basic questions... I would think I have the correct answer for most, but I've learned, unless you've did it... trust but verify.

Thanks for the post... I think I found a replacement from americanstarmanufaturing... the picture shows the bent joint.... I hit a rock riding in a dry river bed...I had no business riding a banshee (or any sportquad for that matter) there...

I purchased a banshee with aftermarket A-Arms on it... Problem is, I don't know what brand and can't identify via search and/or comparing pictures, the a-arms are just chrome, no markings.... I bent the knuckle ball joint as shown in the picture and can't find a replacement part for it anywhere. I would imagine this is a common part, standard sizes, but am finding out different. I've been to the yamaha shop, they were useless, tried to sell me a new set of Moose Racing A-arms instead of the just replacing the part. Now I'm finding myself looking at LSR a-arms, pricing just to replace the a-arms...but this is crazy I just need to replace this part. Can anyone point me in the right direction before I spend 5-6 hundred dollars on something I don’t really need...?

I'm new to the banshee and with dmfisher71 on this. The Banshee I bought has was rebuilt last summer, the pervious owner told me it had been ported for racing, I think .90 over is what he told me. I don't know what that means exactly or how much its been bored out. I would like to know because when I find its time to do a rebuild I'll know if I need to buy new cylinders and pistons first. I also don't know what 4mil means... read it a lot. Maybe the someone could start a thread with words, terms and acronyms... defined.

After reading this forum, for some reason I'm reminded of the debates between the GOP and dems....

X3...I sold my R6 to buy a banshee. I though a sport bike would be a "toy", but found it wasn't what I was looking for with regard to a hobby (or lifestyle as some might say). The quesiton is (as dirtydownunder asked) do you want something to ride or do you want a TOY. Now I have never owned a 4-stroke ATV, but everyone I ride with has either a 450 or 700 and all they do is ride it. I on the other hand, am always messing with my banshee (sometimes because I caused the problem) and get a warm and fuzzy from doing so. I have only owned my banshee for a short period of time and am already experancing the love/hate relationship all men should have with their toys.

Found the problem as suggested by Larry's Shee... I overlooked a simple task and put the slides in the carbs backwards.... I appreciate all of the suggestions, and help. Thanks to Chariot Performance for providing feedback as well. Now on to the next...

Found the problem... I overlooked a simple task and put the slides back in the carbs backwards.... I appreciate all of the suggestions and help. Now on to the next...

I can't put the previous intake back on... both boot necks were cracked where the boost bottle fit in (reason for replacing)... Yes... I took the carbs off and sprayed them out with carb cleaner... took the bowls, and main jet off just to make sure no built up crap was in there... black tube is clear and in place. I think I'm going to adjust the needle clip... move it to 2nd position to lean out the mixture... or would it be the 4th... point is I should try and lean out the fuel mixture right?

Yes... it idled and ran great, just hard to start... I failed to mention its been ported also.

Is it possible to put the reed valve cage and reed back incorrectly after replacing the gaskets that came with your product...? the only other thing I did was spray down my carbs to clean them... Its not just smoking a lot, it will not idle either... All of the carbs setting are set the same prior to taking the carbs off.

I just trashed the boost bottle set-up and replaced it with a Chariot performance billet intake (crossover)… My banshee is now starting on the first or second kick (original problem leading to the decision to get rid of bottle due to possible leak issue)…However I am now running very rich (lots of smoke), and my banshee will not idle and is seemly starving for air. I’m sure it’s a re-jetting issue due to how rich its running, but I’m not sure if that will fix the idle problem. Can anyone help me with the idle issue and what size jets to use: -FMF Fatty pipes -K&N air filter in stock air box (no-top or snorkel) Vforce 3 Reeds -Stock Carbs -Main jet: 300 -Pilot Jet: 30 (based on what FMF recommends with pipes) -All screws settings per Clymers manual…. -I’m riding at 4-5k elevation (NM) I am unsure where my needle should be positioned… FMF recommends 3rd clip… could this be causing the “starving for air” issue?

No leak as I can tell... equal smoke out of both pipes... only set for about two weeks from the last time I road... I mix my fuel 40:1. Going to pull the carb today and re-jet... will update when I have a chance.