camatv

i'm not sure why they did that i have seen some that way in the past if you DO need to move them out that far at LEAST get some nuts and put on the threaded part sticking out. that will make the ball joints much less likey to break i have seen the snap off after big huge wheelies and its not pretty.

i sent that guy an email asking how badd ass his junk ass oil field pipe shit was he said i was a dirty slut and i couldnt make anythng better. and he's been running them for 2 years and they dont break or fall off..

you get what you pay for have you priced a std straight tube arm from stellar?? they are really NOT that bad of a price the lil bit extra you spend for a round carrier arm is worth every fuggin penny. if you cannot afford a decent arm JUST wait and save your pennies or go mow some lawns or paint a dog house for a few extra bucks. you will be happy you did!!

yea like i said. if they sit for a few days the oil will settle in the bottom end and smoke heavy when you start it back up. if it sound good go ride it!

i think you will have enough power to blow your non welded crank and stock clutch basket to smitheriens

a good clutch with heavy springs should hold fine. bet your adjustment was off or your cable is messed up. they need a lil slack at ALL times and the arrows have to line up or it will hold the clutch out. i see thiss problem all the time

ok i did a t-6'd STOCK motor'd bike a while back 290 mains, airbox plate with NO lid torrs removal and a GOOD rider it was able to beat on pavement EASILY a 480cc big bore yfz by about 2-4 lenghts every time. tuning and riding. t-6's like stock motors or motors BUILT for bottom end. they also LOVE taller gearing i used a 15 40t on mine with bottom end porting and v-force reeds and higher comp was a blast to ride overall just not much on top ( but not what i was shooting for)

alignment pin broke. OR its pawl has turned sideways and its stuck inbetween the star's pins. take it back to the shop you had put in the reeds and have them fix it.. ( id guess) you will need new shift shaft, alignment pin, align spring, lock washer, plastic spacer, and nut. at least thats what all i replace when i do it. motor dosent require spliting.

looks fixable to me and believe me i've seen a LOT worse!

i MX'd a j-arm bike for a few years it had denton +3's on it no problems. those stellar's look excellent!! with normal ball joints he uses i wouldnt bother me to jump the hell out of it..

LSR is very high quality parts. measure the a-arms compared to your stockers the upper ball joints are out WAY to far on LSR's site there is a simple install, setup page that will guide you through the install and set up. just DO it just like they say and go get the degree finder its very easy that way just take your time in setting the camber and caster. i'm NOT a flat track dude but dont be afraid to play with it a lil bit after you have it all on. good find!!!

i know of all the bikes i have heard of getting stolen they left the ones with the hidden key! best place for that stupid key switch in in the trashcan next to the torrs and all the other crap i cut off the frame.. dirt bikes dont have keys

just wanted to add RIS made it right with me on the axle deal. ( at least most of what they promised is here) i'm not going into detail but i did recieve a credit for the parts. it did take some work but they did come through. i'm happy.

thought they were all like double o-ringed and fit o so perfect and stuff?

cyls look good you will need more like 198* for shear's it will still pull out of the hole that way.. as it is with the t-5's would be a fun rider bike..

65-75hp is a blast at the dunes if done right.. 80+ with a good TQ curve is enough to make the newbs do~do in their panties

put in the springs and ride it. either all HD springs. OR the other brands like TUSK +15% springs or other +20% springs will work fine. ( DITCH THE STOCKERS) with a lockup its hard to pull in the clutch at higher RPM's. you NEED spring tension to hol d the clutch at launch. even with 3 stiffs and 3 stocks it will slip at heavy loads at times. the stagger'd springs really only work well with a lockup then you can TUNE the slip with the staggerd springs and diff rates.. most bikes under 70ish HP will work great with a GOOD aftermarket clutcvh and springs that come with them. LIKE EBC OR R-1 and tusk springs. or the driveline perf from ebay.

the dogs are banging together inside the trans and roling it to a false neutral inbetween gears. shift shaft mod ( as pictured,) cut shift star and stock transmission mod will solve this.. you will be able to make full throttle upshifts with just a touch of the clutch. everything else is a gimick

have a friend hide in the bushes and throw sticks at the 450

those cases are killer...

rember they make much more than billet cases.. billet netural covers, billet baksets lockups, billet stator covers and inserts, full billet clutch covers ( my favorite!) other stuff also. check out the ebay store and hopefully the updated webb site will have more on it also!

i personally dont like the crossover tube intakes. normal ole intakes that were 2 pieces worked fine and left the carbs int he stock location. the air box you can modify a lot to move it around. if it has the billet plate you can cut the back of the box off and still use it for your resivour location. cut the actual box out completely even the frame tabs ( that suck bawllzz) i sometime just zip tye it up lately i have been doing this more due to the pods rubbing big ass holes in them in them from the frame..

use a ratio rite cup always mix in the can before use at least my opinion. shake the can before you fill up every time. i also drain the tank after the ride if there is any left and keep the extra in the sealed gas can evaporation goes faster than you think..

what the hell is that!!!

i can say i have been buying products from matton for a very long time now and everything has been excellent . i have refer'd their billet baskets to a LOT of customers of mine and if you dont know please look at the ebay sales for stuff you probably didnt know they make. the lil billet netraul cover is a great example if you have a case saver swap out that plastic crap for one of those i have cracked a few of them over the years and for the price its just nice insurance from a potential oil leak. customer service has always been excellent most times i deal with brenda and she has always been helpfull and knows the products well. thanks for great items to make our bikes just all around better looking and easier for me to offer better built motors. thanks!! great to see you as a sponsor!!