camatv

YIKES

wonder if nate will put those SLP's on a serv.

welp just as i have been saying for a few YEARS NOW IF YOU WANT bottom end AND hp YOU NEED A PV MOTOR now that said most people cannot handle that kind of HP and tq in a chassis and with a shorty swing arm its going to be very HARD TO RIDE they can be detuned on gas and will drop about 10-15% OR you can back the timing way out of them on alky ( the way i like to control them) bottom line is this.. servals NEED large chamber pipes they are VERY efficent and no matter what you do carb reed comp wise trail pipes are going to hold them back.. CUBS WILL WHIP A SERVAL in a drag race similar frame similar rider.... i saw the serval andy did it wasnt any thing spectacular in the frame/ chassis depart ment BUT i dodnt see anyone PISSED off after ridign it and mad that it had just too much top end to ride!! and was like a cub.. to me the power looked smooth enough to jump ride play race and goof off on. i cannot believe that those kind of graphs can be posted AND some of you STILL dont believe it!!! another thing with the PV's you can TUNE the open / close times.. HINT HINT>>

i just pulled a stock stroke out of th ebox from wang ( sstar parts) and the welds are not ground down. inside center section is welded ( wiseco cranks are not welded in the center) i know the last one from andy was welded much deeper. and the rods were diff. i think they changed back to a stock looking rod. not sure if they are as strong as the thicker ones.

cut the frame!!

CAUSE THE SHIT DONT FIT!

if cash is not a problem i would HIGHLY suggest a 535 cheeta PV motor.. the cheeta is a completely diff motor bolt on wise from a cub the head is diff the intakes, reeds are diff than stock. it will need a good clutch basket to keep from breaking.. M+M can get the cheeta for you you can also build a 10 mill CUB the larger strokers dont have as much problems with low end power as the smaller ones. the best all around motor is the PV cyls. the serval is not a good drag motor

deto? bad piston? if the skirt broke the porting may be to big on the exhaust OR the piston wall clearance is to much and they rocked in there. if the other side survived measure the wal clearance and figure it out.

automotive vehicles that use e85 need to be either flex fuel OR e85 only cars. the gas staations are being iresponsible with that fuel. 10-15% ethanol is not bad on your motor IF you are going to run that you should use a GOOD alky safe oil like castrol 927, klotz super techniplate or redline alky oils, in cold weather the oil will seperate from the fuels and in an injection style system it wont mix at all UNLESS its an alky safe oil. you should treat e85 just like alky BUT in my opinion to mess with it and its varying quality you should just switch to alky/ methanol. done properly methanol/ alky is an excellent alternative fuel. these are the times we are facing! with race fuels hitting 10 bucks a gallon its just about useless to run that kind of fuel anymore. even GAS left in your carb will cause problems. and gas left out will evaporate and turn to shit also?? i work on bikes daily that have been sitting and need carbs cleaned gaskets replaed and fuel dumped from gas. our vented fuel systems are a big cause from that.

you only get arrested if your name is " fuck you motherfucker". that seems to piss them off? i'm not sapposed to drink alcohol anymore so i'll be the DD haha

i guess with the fine sand i have i only notice the moisture thing in the middle of summer when its retarded humid.. i cannot rember what that sand was called but i bought about a 5gallon bucket of the stuffabout 10 years ago and its still going strong i need a new cabinet tho. i havbe a small table top and the window is all fucked up now!>

in my opinion if you spend the money on GOOD parts the first time you wont have the agoiny of breaking down on your trips my philosophy in motor desin, building is reliablity 1st power 2nd. if its the fastest thing in the pits ( broken) who's gonna care. also its a HOBBY if you are that close to loosing a house you should rethink your priority's whats seeming to me is its starting to get harder and harder to find well built parts. most stuff is badly machined shit or crap from china built by people making 2 bucks a day

here is my opinion on engine swaps in atv's for a long time there just wasnt really a better motor / chassis combo that was resaonably priced to do one in. i agree most swaps are absolutely retarded street bike conversions that end up slower than what was in it previously. BUT a LOT of swaps are dependent ont he chassis and motor matching. a hayabusa or other 1000cc+ street bike motor actually goes excellent in a DS650 chassis if you have ever seen one done right they work. and work killer!. also in the past trikes were getting upgraded to 500cc motor ( kx500, cr500 tecate and 250r ) thsoe actually worked well. where the atv conversions wernt as much. ( but some did work great but took full chassis) there were also a few trikes with street bike motors!!! ( and some of them worked excellent) NOW with the yfz chassis there is a chassis that "fits" a banshee motor amazingly well also fits other single cyl engines like yz250's and maybe a ktm 250?? thats what i feel was the biggest hold back on banshee motors, for the cost there was just not a real frame it fit well into and looked right. and like ANY engine swap some are shitty and half assed and others are done very well and look excellent. in my opinon if you remove the OEM front motor mounts completely off the frame and fab a complete new mount up there and drop the motor DOWN in the chassis you will end up with a motor that fits excellent and everything clears like it was built for it... i'm not sure ont he pipes\ radiator yet.. with the cost becoming more and more reasonable on the yfz's i bet there will be more and more of this being done. i mean really!! if you cannot aford an outlaw chassis why not one of these thats more modern !! they are getting so cheap i was even able to buy a "test chassis" to practice on before i do the real one!! keep it up!!

that looks neato! the dormant colors have a lot of depth in them if done right!.

welp after a few stroking sessions it seems i MIGHT just be there on wensday and be gracing the area with the commander. just hope dallas dosent fart to much in the shower! hope there is room for me to squeze in at h2olds site!! i think i will have the 3 wheeler, the 535 and the trail bike and maybe a golf cart.

the shocks are used on the rear they are VERY short they work GREAt on DRAG BIKES the rear end gets very very low. on the rear they work amaxingle well. no you cannot jump with them they really need corect spacers built to mount right. they make the rear end run about 2-3 inches of travel depending on swingarm length. i have seen guys with them on the front for a drag bike. they also limit travel DOWN on a front end makes it weelie a lil less due to geo and lower center of grav. i like a r-1/6 rear with WORKS steeler ont he front for dune dragging. not as stiff as marvins and weight is not that much. takes whoops much better at speed also.

without the right pipes these motors arent making much power at all.

moose seal KIT is about 20 bucks. comes with them all. bet that ole sproket seal might need replaced also?? i dont like the crank seals but the rest are ok.

hehe i was up all night working and posted that.. basically... use a NEW head gasket for good sealing base is best with a gasket, ( i prefer AFM cometic or other metal type base) if absolutely necessary you CAN install base with yamabond.. depends on motor.

they add tq.... if it falls off the "pipe" its ported a lil wrong or jetted a lil wrong.. OR being ridden wrong ( shifted to early, overreved to far THEN shifted ETC) i like a lighter flywheel i like the quick rev of the engine. i have ran ones with about 60 tho taken off i weigh 280lbs!! i have had one on my trail bikes and my race bikes for a long time i didnt really like the PVL ignition's/.//

daddy says NO!!

thats the same guy everyone is getting the cranks from. that "look" is the same manufaturer and parts. cost, assembly and markup will dictate the price. they seem to be ok? i have heard of more issues with american made "billet" cranks than these....

yea with proper marketing i bet they would sell very well.. those quiet kids are the ones to watch out for!!

well what the hell!! brandon didnt tell me that!!

WOW i would NEVER install the gasket thats NEW out of the package with any kind of sealer. for those that obviously DONT KNOW the gasket is a steel stamping with a raised ridge when you TQ it down the ridge press out flat and seals against the head of course after you remove it its flat and wont seal very well. its basically 2 oem gaskets with a spacer inbetween them. these are JUST like 4 stroke gaskets. and a LOT of automotive gaskets are the same way.. if your too cheap to buy the gasket new when you redo the head sell the bike and go sit on the couch. NOW are we talking about the HEAD GASKET +2MM for using the stock head on 4 mill OR the +2 mm BASE gasket spacer for the same thing that makes them run all stupid.?? the spacer on the bottom AND directelly to the case, cyl CAN be yamabonded and work fine if your going to say BS on that one the case halves are the same way.. its a low comp seal and needs a semi hardening sealer. to get the cyl low enough in the past i have done it from screwed up porting BUT i dont do it very often.