camatv

id ride those in the picture the one your saying you can build in a few days and having it running bythe weekend hmmmmmmmm lets see pics!!! IF i was going to track race a bike i'd absolutely do a turbo triple sled. and have a VERY good person with EXPERIENCE with one build the frame. they seem to be reliable and yea anythign is going to break shit. but i am sure after a while and lots of UPGRADES they would be a FUN track bike. either turbo triple OR rx1?> r-1 with belt drive? then turbo that hoplah

oh and on a side note tig welding is so much fun!!!

some places are getting away with some really crap cranks these days.. i would NEVER use filler on a crank weld the filler WILL POP OUT after the stresses are in there and filler rod floping around in a motor YIKES> most welds are pretty nice and very flat at least the ones i have done were.

i have a few for sale i can get a basic bike running for you for around 2500 the motor will be relatively fresh. ( maybe used crank) OR i can custom build one of the motors for you i have 3 chassis ready for engines. i could even sell you a complete bike in a box BUT as stated if your new to it all i'd prefer to get you ready to go and set up off the batt.. the bike will be actually ride ready all brakes will work frame will be straight and all electrical will work and no BIG issues, it will be tuned right and run good. no bolts will be siezed and no weird crap will be cobbled together.. engine will at least have NEW top end and welded crank all new seals and gaskets etc.. i'm in nickerson. KS i go to waynok a lot also. PM me for info if its somethign you'd like to consider

i dont think he knows of the difference. the serval ( for budget minded peep's) is a decent motor. only thing about buying parts from trinity is they are not a sponsor i believe. i would have used M+M and got one of their "kits" and used the crank they offer in the "kit".. or jeff at FAST domes are probably off shelf "big bore blaster" domes. probably be fine just check squish. if its off get ya some domes from HJR OR NOSS in kansas NOS is next day shipp usually takes me about 2-3 days to get a set after i call him. IF he has to make them if they are in stock its here the next day. you can also get the cheeta's from M+M i dont know of the price difference from building a cub from scratch to a cheeta from scratch probably not much difference casue your buying the head anyways.

i got tired of spraying the whole can of wd40 in the tank so i just made a bigger hole in the tank and i poke a hole in the can and drop it all in there

i have a bunch of parts from a yfz roller i just got going to do the first banshee~450 frame conversion so i WONT be using ANY of the old 450 parts oil tank, lines, full harness, relay's NO battery and some other od's adn ends motor mounts ( front) ALSO have a fully polished OIL tank stock yfz, and a polished stainless steel custom battery box from NMOTION. polished tank 100 shipped. polished box 100 shipped (?) and some kind of what looks like the stock air intake airbox eliminator. NO other parts i can get a pic and send them email.

i have a ported stocker thats a 421 that i dont have to "clutch" to get back on the pipe... you should compare 421's to 421's.

heheh just trying to lighten it up in here a lil bit

DAMN THATS WACK

in my PERSONAL experience not really enough to warrant putting them in.. unless you go REALLY big..

will you part out i need the inner seals..

pics sent

most drag ports and even most more recent porting dosent use the short dick boyesen ports. the picture you have on the right shows how small most are. most times they really add no increase if anything at all, you can also see in the cub that those boyesen's are HUGE and also not in the picture is the really high up transfer support/ dividers in the tunnel the boost port can be aimed a lil diferntly and help fill the lower sections of the transfers. on teh stock cylinders with them being the size of a pencil they dont do much but add turbulence at highr rpms ( in my opinion) some of the most linear powerbands i have done were from ditching the teeny tiny lil pencil dick boyesen ports. now getting them really big thats seems to work much better.. BUT the trans window seems to need to be raise also. i think looking at them that way the charge distributs more across the bottom of the transfers.

just buy my 485 cheeta the PV motors are very nasty i DOUBT a 4 mill serval wold stand a chance ..

WOW WEEE here is my experience. you need to have the exhaust as wide as possible ( as stated in those books from the 60s') you should cut an extra tranfer port, window in there also ( as stated from the 60's as most motors from that era didnt have more than one trasfer port up each side) the "tuned length " pipe has specs but to get it really right you need to build a FEW and play with the chamber to piston length cause thats not really know what works ( as stated in that book also) i'd love to see an engeniering book from KTM about their 2 strokes and how they developed them also theroory's from HRC from the days of 500cc superbikes would be phenominal.. its interesting to see how the serval, and cub and other similar aftermarket cylinders are able to take things from those more modern 2 stroke desingns and push the limits through the roof of what was the norm even 10 years ago. those 2 stroke books are intersting but again they have a lot of outdated therior's in them BUT are an EXCELLENT read if you are into this stuff. are they going to teach you how to port the holy hell out of your stockers MAYBE BUT its still going to be up to you to get it all to work. i personally HATE a flat roof lately i have liked about a 30* dome on the top. at least i think thats what the spec was for the last template i custom made>?? i HAVE been imagineing in my head a completely differnt shape but i'm not sure how it will work SO i'm going to template a few and see how it fits hope they dont eat pistons i'm shooting for 80-85% width with NO triple ports.. ( im not thinking its going to work but hey>) when i first started i trashed a few cylinders JUST to know what the limits were. knowing where the coolant passages are is important.

this is amazingly simple to do sell the zilla wheels.. buy drag cuts with the right pattern dont jump on them as they are for DRAG racing only

DAMN!!!!! THEM BEEACHESS BE HITTING HARD AS HELL MAN YEA BUDDY

the banshee CDI uses a ground refernce heavily! the coil - needs grounded the red/black ( key ON ) needs grounded to run the tether needs ground on ONE wire. the other wire ( black/white stripe) needs other side of tether. the black/white when it sees a ground it kills the motor THROUGH THE CDI grounding the coil is ok but i really prefer doing it through the CDI the stator uses 2 actual charging circuits the yellow wire is the voltage for the lighting circuit ONLY. so you dont need it for drag or NON lighting, simple wiring. the MOTOR needs a good ground through the stator to run rights. the motor is mostly rubber mounted and if that chassis ground is not there for the stator you can have big issue's all grounds need linked on the frame. stator, cdi, COIL, and TETHER> you can run them all together and then make one ground. on the chassis preferably at the coil tower.

like i think i said most the Q's peeps seem to have are either answer'd in the manual OR in sticky's EXCEPT aftermarket etc. and that takes experience. i redid my first banshee a few times and tha was even before i KNEW there even was an internet. sometime you just have to break everything but i do feel i am a lil exceptional in the mechanical ability of it all. i'm tryinjg to remind myself that some people just need the help if they seem at least half ass honest and i feel they can at least somewaht understand my solution i will post it otherwsice i'm just staying out of threads.. i'm honestly really tired of the can you teach me how to port my motor PM's/ took me 15+ years to get to the point i'm at and i was also taught by 2 old school machinest's one of wich was only a handfull that could do a triple exhaust with NO welding on stockers.. thats was a LOT of work. involved removing sleeves adn stuff YIKES

i dont have a straight cut gear set. the hinsons i have for sale are basket only wiseco/ nmotion 9 plate uses stock gear also. if you want to overdrive them you'd need straight cuts.

i for tthe LIFE of me cannot seem to post pictures to this site i have NO isuues anywhere else. i cannot use photobucket either i CAN email them to you send me email and i'll shoot them right over

complete bike still together just bumping up 6500 NO less NO individual part out would sell MOTOR complete OR chassis COMPLETE wouold sell chassis without jj+a and rear carrier, and rear paddles. or front wheels/ tires.

sent pics

how about a LIST of HQ'rs that will be in the reserved spots on powersports side?