camatv

ok so then it just rolls past 1st gear.. BUT if your not happy with a 1-5 starting in 1st your gearing is to short, your not doing it right, you have some sort of setup fail thats causing a problem. to launch the 1-5 in 2nd just shift it into 2nd up to the line. make sure the bike rolls a tad in gear after you make the shift to make sure 2nd is all the way engaged. if not your risking breaking the tips off the dogs.

REALLY your passing this over to build a cub???

sweet bike! slappin pv's??? i have never heard that one.. .. wtf???

my junky ass pieced together from spare parts 485 seemed to run damn good at HQ this last trip... if someone is looking to build a supercub motor because everyone has one. buy this top end, send it to redline make him leave the pv's in there and do everything he is doing to the 485 super and then post a graph. fucker should make ton of power. probably show up some supers and it would be more reliable due to better head design. of course this is an opinion.

simple. the more exhaust pressure is bled off the faster the transfer charge can enter the cylinder.. the port height to an extent can dictate where in the rpm range the most power will be made. also shape can help "shape" the power output. either long an broad or short and pipey. of course on a fixed port there is pretty much "it goes this way and thats it" kinda things going on in there. the ole square port was sapposed to bleed off lots of exhaust pressure ( making power) faster and can produce big numbers on a dyno compared to an oval port in the same setup. BUT they can shred rings due to the excessive amount of hang the ring experiences . AND usually bog like mad men due to the pretty much nonexistant time of the flame front to exert pressure on the piston making power. most square port crap was in the 200-209* range that i had seen. way to high for pretty much any motor except super light rider on extra light frame running alky/nitro mix.. the more rounded the port is the less chance or ring snagging, and longer lifespan the motor can have. cylinder bore and port shape also dictate how wide the port can be. but of course this is only one very small thing to consider in the overall plan of the cylinders port layout. triple exhaust and powervalves can make all kinds of wonderfull things happen in the cylinder.

if you kinda watch sleezebay you will see them pop up. big ass square port most time if it has it the rest of the cylinder look slike pig shit also. and has some crap scribbled on it like dr dre's ass fest or crocodile bitches or big booty judy racing some bullshit like that.

the heel toe thing would most likle be your best bet. a big long bar will bounce around and shift the bike in anything but the smoothest of asphault. the air shift would be your other best bet but then peeps think your spraying nos.

not sure why it wouldnt work.. sand blast, out gas anything that may have come inn contact with fuel, oils, grease. powder away of course any specific surfaces need to be left alone like the areas where stuff bolts onto motors i would tape off the mounting surfaces of the covers.

looks like a 1990's "drag port" and current dirty south backwoods porting i see every once in a while. i got a set of real jems on my mock up motor..

only thing you need a hitch for is hauling stuff around..

http://www.ebay.com/itm/221635805468?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1558.l2649

wow at 125 peeps were blowing up my PM. now at 10 bucks more for cleaner ones AND im including reed gaskets also its dead all of a sudden?

if its a high port cub. its going to fall off the pipe no matter what. loose weight on the bike or rotating mass on driveline. the big bore's helped the pull down low and masked some of the lack of lower rpm power. ( 6500-7500) the smalls dont have as much emphasis on the lower rpms but probably are helping up top a tad bit more.. or your overall setup is a lil off.. domes , real porting ,may help? depends on the build of the motor.

135 w used good reeds 175 w new reeds. brand new replacement reeds run about 120.00 alone.

that is a super thick base gasket. that would mean you dome step is nearly nonexistant. your jetting is off. its that simple OR you have a synch problem, fuel supply problem, or ignition issue. you need to concentrate more on the off idle performance get the bike to roll on very nicely and run a really rich main till it does that. then check stuff like spark gap, plug resistance, ignition pickup gap, plug cap resistance and you will need massive fuel delivery to enable you to run much high rpm for very long. including most likely another power jet added. you will have to watch your egt's if you make very long runs as they will continue to rise rapidly. 52-58 squish clearance is fine DO NOT tighten it up infact going to about 60tho may be even better for really long runs. i would also highly suggest putting the PV's back in it.

hell how's about a pic of the dyno? it might be pretty old school in that it cannot print a graph. which dosent necessarily make it total crap just really old

oh please let a GRR fully set up bike make it to LS.

ok then it goes right behind the idler.

id take pro spankit's over fmf's obviously your fmf fatty or gold shiteries pipe bike has not has spankits on it. or you would have them on it now.

bring up an OEM microfish picture pretty sure that is number 29. on the very first gear that slides down the shaft it is the washer before the circlip. so time to take it all back apart.

yes brand new reeds both sides 100 shipped. with 4 cage gaskets good used ones 75.00 shipped. including cage gaskets, if reeds sell i will take offers on the cages