camatv

the OEM banshee's didnt use gaskets on the intake to reed conection but anymore i even gasket that spot just to make sure.. ditch the spacers. get the right intakes stay away from the crossover tube intakes. the chariot 2 seperate OR UPP intakes work just fine. you can even get the ones without the crossover tube holes and ditch all that crud adn clean up the motor area a lot.

does it get that hot from just sitting and idleing or are you riding it around? does the water pump seem to move water through the radiator? if you take the cap off COLD then start it does the fluid go wossh in there or just vibrate from teh motor running.. is the rad clean and not all bent up? they dont have a cooling fan so if its just sitting in the gerage idleing while yoru staring at the temp gage. its going to get hot. it may also have a head gasket failure but usually you can tell if it does pretty quick... if all else fails back the timing back off and see if it cools down if that the only thing you did you may have some compression issue's or you need to consider running straight 110. on the jets you can just get mikuni OEM jets they are called short hex, any site sponsor that sells parts should be able to get you what you need or even any local shop worth a darn will have mikuni hex mains in stock the slows you might have to order. if you go to a shop adn say you want banshee main jets and they start typing in the computer ask them what they are dooing. if they are looking them up with the OEM yamaha parts locater slap them and ask for the parts unlimited ATV book, go to FUEL AIR section and look for the jets or use the back and look up mikuni jets.

pj's have a differnt idle air circuit than pwk's it's part of the whole retarded idle screw/ choke knob thinngy.

yikes! hate to see what you need to do for the fuel

the more the merrier.. hell at least one person needs to be able to come bail out the "my name is fuck you motherfucker" guys in jail. spurdy not everyone has forgot about ya!

got to run them against the shear and the RE's today.. the shears had more top end pull but the low/ mid wasnt as hard hitting. it did have more overrev. the RE's had much less pull out of the hole but the top end was massive. once it reved it never stopped they easily made more upper end hp than the shear's.. altho you would have to have your ride tuned just right to get the most out of them.. it was easy to overload the bike on launch and make them bog a tad. neither the shear or snipers did this at all. the snipers were very loud and barky and of the 3 we tried i liked the way they sounded the best. it was a deep roar compared to the usualy raspy higher end sound of the 2 others. i'd like to do more with them maybe on a few other engines. hopefully i can . i really feel if the price was more comparable with other pipes they would sell better.

first ride impressions from me are they have a very stong pull through the powerband of a normal banshee (6500-10k). i think they feel like a better CPI. this is on an alky 421 with 36/38 lectrons. its really easy to ride it around and with proper tuning it has a great wide powerband. not any overrev at all. but shifted right it drops rpm right into the sweet spot on the motor. these pipes should be easier to ride, and drag with if your not the absolutle best rider. they are also much easier to control wheelies with never really fell off the pipe i personally like them a lot. wish they were a lil cheaper.. they fit pretty good and plug access is not bad at all. the do rub on filters and will burn them, ( nearly all pipes will do this) the silencers connection i dont really like all that well and i dont like the way the silencers hang down so far. BUT overall they sound GREAT! and i like the way they run. the bad things are pretty minor. thats my HONEST opinion on them. they are a definate contender for inframe drag pipe/ dunner hoefully will do some back to back ride impressions today. going to try shear, and out frame Racers Edge. and possible CPI's/ kinda doubt i'll put the cpi's on. i already prefer them to cpi's/

welcome to the site.. if you can make sure to try and attend the Little Sahara ride in october.

the rear you just loosen up the top threaded preload adjuster, and slip the clip off and remove the spring. rears are easy i wouldnt waste the $$ on the fronts.

a gas bike after a few runs was no way ever running 160 degree's. your probably freaking out over nothing gas motors will run up to 230degree's escpecially pump motors. you just have to let them cool off. making power has this trade off of making heat also sucks when that happens.

i would deff rather have tires that worked then shiny new plastics and a bad ass motor and some slippity sand gecko's gecko's suck on anything.

sounds like the previous owner may have rushed the job i'd split it completely and see what was wrong with the crank. if it has small roller bearing marks in the old head your new head will suffer the same fate if not have the rod break and blow out your cases. if i t was me personally i'd bite the bullet and split it and do a complete inspection of the crank and bearings.. anything even questionable i'd replace it. if you dont. then you will get the pleasure of doing it all over again and getting another set of cyls and head and etc.. if your more than confident with 2 strokes you should know all this already and also be confident in your tuning skillz?

i cant see the pics. i'll say this. with the cyls being that far over unless they have aperfect bore on them i'd seriously look into replacing them, serval, stocker low bore whatever. the bottom end. if it was me you would need the welded crank, TZ drive bearing, a billet clutch basket with a GOOD backing plate ( matton) HD clutch, and transmission mods. then the bottom end would be pretty well built if you were going to go serval i'd just do it all at one time and save the $$$ to do it right one time. the cylinder would be best to be port matched to the cases at the time of the rebuild you probably have other bits and piece worn out inside also.

your number one problem was the pistons, combined with the old porting.. good to hear your happy!! thats all that matters

so your on a tight budget and you want to build a stroker?

650ish is an arm and a leg? you dont need evols on a dunner. you will like th eworks either way!

your sapposed to turn a banshee ?? that is the quote of the year!! HA

welcome!! post some pics of your stuff? any weird neato color combo's?

if i had the $$$ this sucker would be on the way to me!. tyson copied a LSR single arm frame. this one is similar but not the same. looks good to me

will paypal be ok? i'll take em!

if you have stock carbs you will mostlikely need to go up 2 jet sizes or more. the added RPM of the shear will need more fuel to maintain. if you have a 310 try a 330

left cyl good shape stock porting stock unmolested studs. needs bored ( id say ) currently at 64.50 80 shipped.

the ppro trax kept the same geo through the travel thats what is was designed for. its a great suspension with ZPS and stadium style stuff. BUT i wouldnt waste the $$$ on it unless you are big time pro. and if thats the case yoru not racing a banshee, and your not buying parts.. i would just look at std long travel that fits the banshee chassis, and a really good and corectly set up shock. anyhing else and i'd be looking at frames or major modifications to the stock chassis. whats a "current" advanced front end geo setup look like?

if its not a track you better get rid of the strut.

nology coils are nice. i dont particularly like the hot wires that they have also. most time just coil and make my own wires