camatv

that would be excellent!! with the lead time on stocker cranks getting rebuilt at about 2-5 months and the current crap being offer'd i have been wanting to go back to doing my own for the local riders.. i'd be interested in a few jigs for sure. would make things much easier and faster.

sand devils are the bestest paddlels eva!

if everything inside is EXCELLENT!!! the shifter itself may be to low. raise it up one spot and try again a LOT of the time riders get all to anxious and wont let the shifter back down to make the next shift enough. it wont shift if the arm cannot get to the next pin..

i'd like to see the fixture for phasing.. i've been thinking the same thing.. i used to do a few cranks back in the day mostly made the press pins, and heated them up and froze other parts, 20 ton press. i have a PILE of stockers that have varing problems i think between them all i have about 2-4 good cranks that need redone.. i used the bearing remover. you have to walk the bearing off a tad then install the remover. if your not going to reuse the bearing i dont worry about heating it too much. sometimes they stick really bad adn take a lil "help" nobody usually wants to share the crank knowledge.

its probably stolen!! i'm also not really seeing the joke here? i think the joke is on the poster trying to be funny! buuuhhahahahaha

should come with the swing arm? some carriers might have it with them or you will need to make it you can also try acn call some swingarm buildersand see if they will sell it to you.

the "chrome powder will looklike somewhat polished alluminum.

oh ha ha this is my dummy motor it has a trans shaft and sproket, kicker and shifter on it and these junk ass cylinders i use it for mock up it shows were everything really is instead of a engine jig.. the cases have a huge hole in the back of them also its much lighter than a real motor i do have a set of welded cylinders about ready to go.. they wont be on this pile this is the practice frame so i can figure this all out. gonna drop this off a few hills and abuse it really bad see how it all holds up,, but now we are talking about stretching the yfz +14 in the front and running +4 or 6 on the back suspended.

front motor mounts.!! used the stock mounts but changed them up a tad..

if you hit somethign hard enough to break an arm the frame has got to be bent

you cannot release the clutch with your hand on the lever at the case..

welp finally got started on this project thanks to springer. been thinking about this for a long time and this is the "test frame" i didnt want it to look as crappy as others i have seen here are some teaser pics.. this one will be the beater upper frame and see how it all works out. will have a mild 350 test mule in it when its done next is the 350cc cub dune/ drag build http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb180/camatv/yfz%20frame%20conversion/100_0434.jpg http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb180/camatv/yfz%20frame%20conversion/100_0433.jpg http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb180/camatv/yfz%20frame%20conversion/100_0432.jpg http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb180/camatv/yfz%20frame%20conversion/100_0431.jpg http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb180/camatv/yfz%20frame%20conversion/100_0431.jpg

pics of domes. trinity dome is black and sucks nuts is a low rpm design.. they are deto prone other is a known well working cub dome and is similar in size to the 72mm super cub domes this shape was originally a popular alky/ drag shape in stock cylinder motors high rpm and less prone to deto. squish clearance from about .48 to .60 this shape is a good starting point for 485 and really any high rpm motor that is anything that will run in the 6000-11,000 rpm range. if yours dosent look like this you proabably need some rework done.. http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb180/camatv/cheeta%20head/100_0429.jpg http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb180/camatv/cheeta%20head/100_0428.jpg enjoy!

these specials M+M puts together are great kits!! dont hesitate to buy one! some of the best quality parts out there all together for one price keep the lectrons!!

posting a pic of a stocker and asking what i can do to improve it??? get out the credit card!! you can throw 20K at that thing and end up with just the cases.!

all hope is gone!

if a chick says jd cannot bring a drag bike he better just stay home.. i need someone to race on the strip that isnt afraid of wheelies! in fact i think i will add a medal to the mix. NIP nuts in purse. given to the most pussy whooped

i'm gonna leave a skidmark on quad's seat..

if your going to get one from m+m just call them and get a quote. i'd recomend a top case fill and match and a billet basket and a stock cut transmission and your gonna need a good clutch also. ( these are for some reason are left out of the recomended builds?)

the transmissions in almost all other atv's is a differnt style they have a completely differnt shifting mech in them there is no way to convert a banshee trans to that style. you can change the banshee trans to work a LOT better and you probably need to replace a bunch of worn out parts in your trans to get that "positive" feel back..

i will go take pics and post them up.. i have a set of the JUNK domes that trinity sells no matter the CC. and a set of proven to work cub domes the side by side differnce is very obvious. in a week or so i will hopefully be getting back a set of custom cuts for a 400cc i am doing for a friend..

a dual feed pingle

i run 14/40 on 78 roll tire on flats. its ok. you will just have to play with it you cannot just hop on the net and ask a vague Q and get the absolute best possible scenario answer. do what others do. get some front sprokets, go to where you ride it at, and play around with the gearing till its whips the bike your racing.. once the front is pretty close you can adjst the rear to fine tune it.

i spray it down after a good washin with the hoez

every PVL bike i have been around has had issue's bad coil, screwed up stator plate it always something with those piles. nology coil, dyna ignition, stock OEM stator, lighten flywheel yea buddy!@