camatv

drum is same as a banshee if i rember right the gear ratios on a few gears are differnt.

dang if i had thosand bucks extra i'd buy it just to have a track bike . what a deal this chassis is around 3500+ and they are well built..

if these look nice i dont think he's going to have any problem getting 300..

pv cheeta might be able to handle that kinda exhaust.... but i dont know for sure... thats high!

ohh another one..

miner!

what the hell this was on the front page man we need some NEW threads!!! this old shit is fuckin boring!!

i love lectrons on gas. same simple design and easy to jet and set up. they usually make more TQ than similar carbs the same size. i personally dont know why they arent as popular. lectron as a company has been concentrating on the sport bike drag market but now i have seen they have a new owner and he is trying to market them wider again..

just put bigger jets in it till it slows down.

hmmm interesting colors..

if you can get the fronts to work well with one finger thats a nice feeling. my trail turd uses 250r dual piston brakes and i really like them my old one had the 87 year front calipers with the bigger pads and braded lines i liked that also. BUT the yfz conv seems like an excellent idear escpecially if its a bolt on.

OOPS!! HA There i fixed it. sorry sometimes i type to fast and forget things..

their is a high and a low on the lil tank. if you dont run one the rad needs to be left a lil low so the coolant has room to expand. i always laugh at the guys who fill the res tank to the top then wonder where all that mess came from all over the bike. on stocker routing the coolant dump is right above the right pipe and when it pisses out it goes all over the pipe and all over the motor STINKY! i like to use the resy tank on dunners and draggers i dont really care. on alky they dont really get that hot anyways.

also if you look at RK's site for ATV heads there is only one picture of a head dome for the stocker cylinder head those domes were made years ago that page is really old if your dome dosent have that basic shape it wont work for shit. plain and simple

call them before you order the head!! they will ask you a bunch of questions and you will need an accurate deck height measurement. the domes will be cut specifically for your motor. when i went to the RK head it picked up about 2 lengths. and MPH'd about 3mph more they have some numbers on them and say alky. they resemble the "custom" head thats in the other bike. the custom head was cut about 8 years ago and the rkt was made about 6or 7 the domes for the rk head ONLY fit their shell. and their shell ONLY uses their domes.

strawberries and cream...

all marine oil is also certified to work and work well. Full synthetic marine is amazing stuff, most 2 stroke marine engines in jet ski's were also power valved and need a specific oil that wont gumm up PV's at all. Some of the engines will rev really high for long periods of time also using ANY tcw3 certified oil will result in a well protected motor' Usually a gallon of marine is not to bad in $$$ sometimes i can even find the good synthetic on closeout for next to nothing. These certified oils seperate from the fuel much better once inside the motor and usually will leave an oily film on everything.. It is obvious how well an oil works when you have to split the motor and you are poring out raw oil from the insides. instead of a dry gummy film thats just stuck on the piston in spots. Most all atv/ dirtbike oils are NOT certified..

all those parts shold be easy to find and i bet pretty reasonable price wise.. step up to braded lines and i bet you end up with a one finger brake set up//

strippers smell like cotton candy..

i hope to have another set to play with on some stocker 350cc motors soon.

if you didnt use a compressor and a rubber tiped blow gun the carbs are not clean you also need to make sure the air jets in the intake bowl are clean and i'd completely disasemble them that is remove the dump tubes and everything. i also use carb cleaner and spray through all the passages and make sure they are clean and going where they need to.. hold the slow jets up to light and make sure you can see the light through them they can get varnish whick looks yellow, buit you can see light through them if blown out with compressed air they will be clean and clear. if a bike sits for more than 30 days with fuel in the tank its gone bad and has started to turn to crap. also you can remove the petcock and clean out the fuel filters.. check your float height and make sure thats correct when you put them back together

you had the cases welded with the clutch cover on??

can you pull the lever to the bars on the fronts?? use OEM pads, and upgrade to stainless steel brake lines should work much better. bleed the brakes and use new fluid. if you can pull the lever to the bars it deff needs bled andnew fluid put in.

if the bike starts and runs its not 75lbs of comp after about 90 they wont kick start anymore. who built it? maybe you should go talk to them.. if its just some buddy you paid with beer or cheese burgers that might be your problem. .58 is pretty loose on squish also but 75lbs is really low//

i run 15/40 with 75-78 14 paddle roll tires. pulls it fine.. you could try a 14 45 but i bet you wont like it. they like some load on them that woudl be the easiest change you may not even have to mess with yoru chain if there is enough adjustment