camatv

welp there ya go nobody sells banshee pipes one side only.

on a side note in a drag setup floats are light and work excellent. just std floats not evol or bla bla bla just the 600 buck ones..

you need to use the larger bore cometic top end gaskets. you should also check the fitment of the head it may need clearanced. thats really a strain on OEM sleeve also.

shortening the silencer on a 2 cylinder banshee will NOT give it the bark that your old 250 had only CC increases will do that. kinda like trying to make a 4 cyl honda sound like a big block chevy by making the pipe on the car bigger.. we all know what that sounds llike.

thats the funny thing you can buy a about to blow stocker for 1000 bucks and a fully rebuilt to your motor for about 1200ish. and sometimes a drag setup 350cc stocker for 1500ish. to me personally unless you can take the motor completely apart and actually see whats in it on a stocker i wouldnt trust anything. i always prefer to buy motors that are apart. much easier to get a true value. BUT if yo install a good motor adn screw it all up adn tune it wrong then blow it to bits well thats your fault.. i have a 421 cub that i cant seem to sell for 2k also have a 485 cheeta that noone was interested in for 3500.

you need to synch the carbs and set the idle. done

i personally feel the 3 bond stuff dries to hard. and can lead to vibration leaks over time import grey available at ANY parts store is excellent just like yamaha bond. i have been using import grey for about 10 years now it seals great works every time and if i need some on sunday or the stealership is out i can just go right to the local o'reilly's and buy it your only talking about 6 bucks here.

hmm wonder what a 10 mill serval port timings would be. i'd HIGHLY suggest if you have a 10 serv built to have a GOOD builder that understands midrange NOT just top end screamer power build it. and i'd second the 10 mill if you have the budget do it. OR go to a PV motor like a 485 or 535 cheeta. more bottom end than you will ever believe a banshee could make.

xc woods riding will eat an override right up. you need a stock modded trans the shift shaft will help a lil bit a cut star will help a lil bit but untill you actually fix the real problem it will never shift right. a dog cut on the gears is what you need. it will be a 6 speed, neutral will be in the stock location, you can backload it all day long just like stock you can land from jumps hard and it not bend a shift fork ( NO override can do that) you can be ona hill roll backwards, shift down and then get back on the power and go back up the hill ( this can also damage an override even duneable) get the correct trans for what you need.

thread mine

i would totally rock a tanned and jacked bansheehq t-shirt. i wipe all my parts down before i ship them but i am not going to send somethign in to get it repolished. if a pipe has dings and dents is should be listed in the add i get tired of selling stuff then getting greef over the shipping costs i have to go buy a box, buy tape, and packing materials ups shipper is about 30 miles from my house.. flat rate's been nice but last time i checked they dont have a flat rate 10 dollar box that pipes fit into.

yup. i dont have any way to cut off the old cover. and i'm sure any machine shop would cost me more than what the entire cover ready to bolt on costs. think i'd rather spend the money from converting my stocker to getting the ready to polish one polished.

all on ebay high bidder gets it

the joke is someone actually thoguth he was serious now thats funny i dont care who you are.. rember jb weld, duct tape, and bailing wire fixes everything

i have stretched cheapo chains in 1 ride. its all in the quality of the chain

i'd give redline a shot.

you sound like a kid i know. he swaps trades buys sells all the time one week he is a flatbilled MX king the next week he is a die hard gncc rider, next week he is a killer freestyle rider, next week he is a flat track racer all with differnt bikes and stuff.. sometimes i guess it takes a lil time to find your identity. and yea banshees are WACK!!

450 has timing markings from a wr450 the cam mod moves the cams to the yz450f timing it makes a tad bit more top end. not much but a lil. the quickshot will cure the bog 99% if you attach the pumper jet to the actuator it will also help a lot. i also donot like the fart can bikes either.. ( this in the yfz world is called the o-ring mod) i am so tired of hearing changes stated as MOD's only see it in the 4 pokes. 2 mod 3 mod 4 mod bullshit

you might be best putting the pipes and one muffler on ebay and get whatever you can, then just buy a used set of what you like.. like pc's or toomeys etc

i have always felt the jig, bike or whatever shear made the pipes off of was tweaked or bent and they just didnt know it. they just dont fit all that great but with a lil rework would fit nerly perfect. and once you get them on and running you wont want to take them off.. hehe

i just finished a stellar stock mod +4 chassis, and +3 a-arms i set it up so it would take whoops and bumps. (14.25 marvins up front and +10 rear arms with linkage and stock shock) the arms are working great so far. i have beat them through some whoops and wheelied the bike up on purpose and they seem fine. the chasis ride's excellent with this setup never noses into the sand even with 12o clock wheelie and takes whoops with ease. no twitchy shizzle or weird stuff happening. but its up kinda hi. after setting this one up and playing with it some i really like the way it rides the longer front works excellent. and unlike almost every other stretched nose front chassis i have rode it works really good. took some tuning and some tweaks, but its a blast now tim can also build to your specs i'm sure if you are concernd of strength have him build a set with stronger larger tubing upper a-arms. he can do whatever you need to make you happy. i'd also suggest using ball joints instead of the hyme's/. just for strength.. also if your going to use stock or springed shocks let him know his current +3 drag didnt fit with stock shocks. i'm sure he can work around that and make you happy.

if you want a super hard pull in 1 2 3rd gears get cpi's if you want all out top end and super hard pull in 2 3 4 5 6 get the shear.. if you ride your bike around and like a lil more lower end you will probably like cpi big bore's. motor porting and etc sill make a diff also. if the engine is not ported at aLL the cpi's will work ok. the shears will make power about where the stock porting falls flat.

yes they are!

the screws that hold the backing plate on are the absolute worst designed bs i have ever seen in my life. they are flimsy lil itty bits grade 5 allen screws and the heads are recessed so far intot he plate if you make anypower it pops them right off. its an easy fix with a lil kit from matton they sell ( as per my suggestion) a cromoly backing plate, stiffer cusions, and the m8 allen screws for it. you just tap and thread your basket and install. probelm solved.

welp bring them out and lets spend a day playin pipe switcharoo