camatv

need new trans.

just list everything on ebay.

i think they are worth 400. but i'm not the seller.

roller is complete. motor is in a box will need crank and top end and i think the flywheel is gone. other than that all complete. in nickerson kansas about 50 miles from wichita. cyls are at 64.75 and i'd bore them to 65mm it will come with a crank but its noisy on the bearings. fmf gOLD series pipes stock carbs rest is stock. build it the way you want frame is clean and not bent or damaged comes with blue plastics. i believe its a 99 was going to redo the whole bike and sell it ready to go but cant seem to get any interst in it for 2800 turn key 1500 cash

yes i do i'd like another set to play with.

man wish an in and out burger was close now i want try one!! yes food is better than trinity.. head dome shape is that cylinders #1 enemy. the bore size dosent make them to thin that cyl can handle up to 75mm bore no problem that is a myth i dont care who told you its not right. the material the sealing o-rings are made of needs to be VITON if you cannot get a set let me know i can send you some. they are brown in color if you get black o-rings dont install them they are low temp trash. the head lifted, from bad design, ate the o-ring, and the coolant coming into the motor and mixing with the high temps of combustion turned to steam and was very bad bad thing. that shocked the cylinder and caused the alluminum holding the nicko on to deteriorate and cause it to flake. the cracked transfer YIKES i would demand a new cylinder, new pistons, all gaskets, and dome blanks.

its always about the dolla dolla bill yall cool springer usually i dont go till wensday at some point for sandfest adn depending on fundage i may not go till even later. never went on a tuesday ever thats early!

he does some really good frame stuff also. one of the coolset stock modified frames i've seen came from that shop. tyler you should go get him as a sponsor. i nealy never see any advertising from them at all.

they are removed becuse torrs sucks nut sweat they get in t he way they are all bulky and stupid looking they make removing the carbs a pain in the butt they make jetting changes harder they they should be already they were stupid to even be put on the atv in the first place.

state spots are 20 a night used to be 13 if your going to be there early springer get the spot next to ya that way i have somewhere to park. i need full hookups

route the hose in front of the frame if you have to and you can try flipping it around

400 shipped..

looks like a good deal

cash talks!

its an easy fix. if done right. i dont know why but it seems they are just lost as to how to set this motor up its basically a high rev 250 twin and if you look at it like that things go much smoother keep pestering them!! hell call them every day! tell them to recut the domes with super cub specs ( for starters) and get their heads out of their butts on the dome design!

Pasi lives in finland

well dang that stadium place isnt too bad $ wise either guess i might give them a shot every once in a while.

best price i have ever found was south seattle powersports. unless you can get the homie hookup from a parts guy in your local dealer. OEM parts prices vary so much from place to place.

exactilly. they can give you setup tips since they are the ones that built the motor.

the bushings at the frame are replaceable. the ball joints are not. replacement of the bushings is pretty straight forward uses same bushings as an a-arm kit. you might want to replace the sleeve's that the busings ride on if they are worn. remove the arm, removethe sleve, tap out the busings with a long punch or long flathead screw driver and then install the new ones if they wont slide right in you can tap them in very lightly with a rubber mallet or use a piece of all thread to pull them in place. if the bal joints are shot adn it needs bushings just get replacement j-arms then you can get whatever width you might need also

thats a tough one. i know proper;y set up my old pv 485 on alky in a stock chassis with a 6 over was a major handfull in the trails. it wheelied like crazy and i was 245lbs at the time. the crank is going to give you a lot more tq not sure what a serval would end up doing. i'd say it would have to be built and the porting be correct. might not be to bad of an engine.. really depends on your budget. if i know what the port #s were for a serval 10 mill might make things a lil diff. i'd deff get the port work done on it either way.

just do what kevin recomends

here its been over 100 but it always says feels like 200d

guess i'm just lost.. guess i just cannot seem to understand how this particular motor has been such a problem. ( 485 cheeta) so you sent it to jeff to do the labor, as per your request after trinity said they would fix it and cover the costs, then trinity says naw we want to see the cyl and you send it to them. what did jeff say was wrong with it? kinda like a second opinion.

why would another builder need "specs" from trinity?? if the head is jacked up have jeff fix it i know what a 73mm bore cylinder likes its basic 2 stroke knowledge. the current head shape is for a motor that might rev to about 7500rpm's it needs set up for a higher rev engine in the 11,500 rpm range and that takes a completely differnt head shape. i mean really am in the ONLY one that has figued this out?? a SUPER CUB has a completely differnt shape dome in it to work without blowing the head off than a trinity cheeta domes shape. yet the 2 motors use the same piston stroke and basic port layout. one is a 72mm and the other is a 73mm bore.. expand the bore out to 73.5 on the dome, keep the squish width the same and cc acordingly. run about a .50-.55 squish clearance , like a 250r. squish width should be no more than about 9mm. much more than that and you have a detoing, head o-ring blowing piss-u-off motor. depending on bowl shape, and fuel used you can run between 4 and 12 degree's of timing gas will probably be 0-7* alky can be more than that.