camatv

I'D just sell the pipes and silencers you have and buy a used set of pipes. maybe bead blast the pipe, and silncer tubes get ONE pipe from toomey. and then paint them all black?

that seal kit dosent look bad i think i have used those in th epast. you can see in the 2 crank seals the added brown stuff(?) that is a harder material and takes the higher RPM of the cranks much better without burning up. i have seen some seals come through here and DONT have that in them these are also the seals that have leaked after just a few months and needed replaced. be particular on your crank seals !!! you dont want to have to remove the motor and split it all apart again for a set of 15.00 seals.. use yamahabond grey on the cases OR import grey from autoparts store i personally prefer the import grey its not as "stringy"

good idea to replace the crank. spin the rods around very very slowly on the lower end and look for cracks in the bearing races. about 1 out of 5 used cranks that are in "great shape" have this issue. oem cranks are nicely built but its about the same to replace the crank as have it rebuilt with all new parts. i'd suggest if your going to keep it for a long time to get a HOTRODS crank or a sstar crank ( ebay) or call andy at M+M and get one from them use a fully welded crank and use NEW OEM crank seals. the oem seals are built differntly adn will hold up much better. if your not looking for top performance and are on a budget just stay with a 350cc crank. top end if your not really racing it any piston will work fine , i'd say namura, ART ( oem) vertex, if your going to be revving it a LOT and going to be hard on it i'd suggest forged pistons. like WOSSNER or wiseco. the wiseco's quality as of late has been questionable. if your going to keep it i'd also suggest an update to the clutch, the stock trans , and installing a clutch pusher bearing. do the motor right and assemble it correctly , then make sure its tuned right and the motor will last a long time. clean clean clean the bottom end. spending a lil extra time and buying good parts now will go a LONG long way.

wiring is beyond simple. one of the wires goes to ground the other goes to black/white the push buttom and the tether will both be 2 wire style get a tether thats a conect when its pulled off. or just ask for one for a banshee. dont make it all complicated. its unescessary. i have ran both on bikes in the past its nice. you have the buttom to kill it and the tether if you fall off.

i have had 40's run nice and clean on the bottom it seems to me not enought time is taken in the tunning of a carb before they are "given up on" OR the tunning is set to the rich side on the slow and needle adn that fuggs up the off idle throttle response. spend the time to perfect the jetting you wont regret it.

some pics http://s204.photobucket.com/albums/bb180/camatv/yfz%20450%20parts/

shit happens tell us anyways

if you are on a budget i would highly suggest getting the matton macine cover. for about the same money its already installed and great product! http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BANSHEE-CLUTCH-LOCK-UP-COVER-BANSHEE-QUICK-CHANGE-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem4aacacda2aQQitemZ320724589098QQptZMotorsQ5fATVQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

stay out of the puddle? if you want to get wet get a boat??

probably feel in there from a nother bike. its not banshee. i do rember a leroy having some like that in the 60's?

need to ask some q's do you have stock carbs? do you really like polished alluminum? do you just want a stockish replacement? do you have the urge to get diff carbs in the future? these q's will kinda point you in the right direction. OEM intakes work great and overall hold up for a long time and are realitively cheap. they match the stock reeds good and can be worked a lil bit to flow good. billet intakes are mostly for larger carbs or for matching to diff reeds i'd personally stay as far away from the crossover style intakes as they are kinda crappy.. if you need clearance for the clutch arm a proper intake should solve that issue. UPP makes a nice intake thats NOT billet for differnt size'd carbs they fit good and can last a while without much issues. i have found after about 5-6 years they can tend to start cracking out. BUT billet intakes with the rubber boots will do the same thing. some of the shit china couplers wont even last a weekend so be very picky in what you buy..

all parts for a 04-08? yfz 450. polished stock oil tank 100.00 with oil lines oem oil tank 30.00 nmotion custom polished stainless battery box holds larger battery. 100.00 was custom built not another one out there i dont think. 2 oem starter relays 20 each oem wiring harness 60.00 cdi 25.00 ignition coil 25 one upper a-arm 40.00 OEM radiators with all sensors, 60.00 each have 2 radiator fans checked before removal work fine have 2 40 each prices +shipping and paypal fee's willl have pics up tomorrow

i second that this one was one bad ass lil blaster!! sorry to see it go would have been fun to get some pics of a big fat ass jumpign it at the dunes...

everytime you put your hand over the carbs and "rev to the moon" you are hurting the hell out of your motor. you better figure it out or your gonna blow it up. are both carbs slides hutting all the way? get the bike to run but not IDLE AT ALL THEN SET YOU IDLE WITH A SYNCH TOOL oops sorry. clean the carbs, call SUDCO and ask them what needles they recomend and make sure you have REAL pwk's adn not the OKO's if you have the shit chinese knock off's your also fuel starving if not having problems with cheapo carbs.. a leak down test would also be a good idear.

if you want them to look good before your trip remove them and order some new polished alluminum wheels and tires from rockymountain atv... best way to ditch the gold color is either sand blast them adn then powdercoat them or sell them and buy polished wheels..

if the swingarm is built right you can run a stock shock on a +14. ifs its some back woods or badly designed crap it will look like a jacked up 4X4..

10-12 seems to work ok if you know how to ride and arent scared of wheelies 14 is a nice length also takes a lil more paddle but you shouldnt have to fight it much. frame geo is really important also why struted ? are you strictly track bike?

sweet let us know how it goes!

does the regulator add pressure as it builds boost? i figure it would.

depends on the domes.. if the dyna is straight out the box set the plate at 0 and start with curve 3. then if your going to run dyno start up on the timing on the plate till it seems right. might end up at +2 on the plate and could end up all the way up to 10-12. just depends on the motor. if you have the program for the dyna you can play with it a lil bit or some shops have a nice curve already figured out. you would want to increase the timing a tad over the entire curve and have more at the lower rpm's and less at the upper rpm's/ rember when you adjust the plate youa re adding timing over the entire rpm curve/. with the dyna you can increase the timing where you want it and not where yo dont.

matt who?

i am really wanting to move to that area but might need a job....

what did you "grind down?? where did you put "epoxy at? if the motor was set up for pop up domes and 115 rod the port numbers on a stock stroke std dome motor willbe close enough it should run fine..

i like the color of the plastics. is that some maier?

if you have problems always make sure your fuel pressure is adequeate. issues i have seen is people forget that atmosphere pressure needs to be added in to the boost pressure./