camatv

you can measure all you want.. it still only 6

the squreel cage is the best hands down way to synch them it also set up the idle which with out that being the same willmess up the synch its not jsut that they open at the same time its that they are raising at the same opening level.( hard to explain). guess i can try and say it liek this.. the "tool" measures the incoming air draw when the motor is running. you cna have one side pulling 5 cfm and the other pulling 7 cfm ( i dont know if i t measure dfm but thats just a comparison) it will idle and it will sound ok IF you have never heard one set right. THEN if you go from there adn set your synch even if they open at exactilly the same time your cfm will be off and the synch will actually be off. at anything but WFO it will have a tendency to surge just a tad and for the rpm of the engine it will be off jetting wise.. i also used to set by sight and listening then i used one of those at the dunes it was amazing the differnce in the way it sounded and the crispness and tq changes it made. its one of the most important tools next to a manual in my opinion on a banshee.. they are realtively cheap EMI makes them i got mine at the local VW parts store for 30 bones. rember set the IDLE first THEN set they synch

you should crop that chick in your AVI as riding on the back

yea i second that the sand roost in the corner is kewl.. the fact that its being made by a fart can bike on a banshee forum.... well ya know

as i have said over and over and over its basic 2 stroke theroy. proper domes 485 is a beast.. plain and simple.. yoru gonna have a HELL of a time riding it on a stock length swingarm i'm gonna measure these domes and run thenm through the head program and see what i get..

WINNER WINNER CHICKEN DINNER!!! my status as MR 90% IS SAFE...

if you took it on TRADE IN the guy who's bike you took it OFF you KNOW its super head.. if you BOUGHT NEW DOMES for it YOU HAD to buy super cub domes for the head.. either way your a fucking lier and thanks for asklin! why not just put SUPER CUB head in the damn description.. and the BUYER ALWAYS ask for PICTURES and if the count is low NEVER trust them.. unless they have a PILE of good feedback and are willing to give you ALL their info.. simple as that your both at fault here but i'd say the seller is more at fault.. send a refund, get the fuck off HQ all i'm gonna say you wont see a post from me in this thread again.

oh if anyone has a 350 and wants to run it in the jolly jocky race but is out of the "weight class' i'll run that mo fo..

are we having aligator meatbawlz? you gotta be quick to taze someone on the strip hell i'll be gt rolling all weekend anyways aw hell i'm adding another "award" T+P tazed and pissed

richen it up try that make is SOO rich its hard to clean out.. if not let me know and come on down./ could be something simple could be something retarded, might even be a internal engine failure of some sort.. if jetting dosent change it and electrical dosent change it you gotta start looking at less obvious things..

i kinda like that location.

might have been the 400. 2 stroke. i had read that they shifted like total dogg do do.. now that i think about it they may have it better to the 4 larger dis ones.

so customer service trumps ability? i guess what i ask is (__________) insert shop name a better builder then yamaha? where does the scale peak? what do you base your top notch from?

oh also whats teh squish test show? whats the BOGG sound like ( as i said hard to do over the net) can you bogg it so hard it dies?? ( wayy bad on shift forks) might even be a brake drag OR a bad output shaft bearing.. or some other bearing inside the motor shooting hell ..

are you launching it at 7500+rpm? outerwares dirty? to much gearing? too much tire?? if i was around it i could figure it out i bet BUT over the net typing is hard to do.. you should just bring it down here and we will skid off a smooth section on the sand bar..

what the hell are you asking about?? on cubs? on stockers?? the bottom plugs, or rubbers?? id say yamabond them..

ok then let me throw this out there.. is YAMAHA an A -class builder?? whats the TOP of the game that you would base your scale off of?/

did they fix the crappy shifting issues with that motor??

now you know why grandma chased you out of the kitchen!!

oh just a discussion?? what makes an A class builder?? what would you expect in someone who would be consider'd an A class builder?? heard this coined the other day and just not sure what really the criteria is?? if we can discuss this like adults i might add what i would consider an a-class builder.. would it be narrowed to drag motors or overall? more than just ONE atv, or dirt bike or 4 stroke or 2 stroke??

for a dunner a 160 is minimum. sell the spindle mounts and you shoujld be able to get what you want for the front and have cash in your pocket. a decent NEW set of front wheels and sand tires runs about 140 bucks shipped. the 21 inch is a good size.

wonder if loco still has 9 paddles on his bike?

whats the worst that can happen??

as stated actually TEST the electrical if yolur not sure how either buy a manual OR find some old guy that bitches about how the things are these days and ask him.. OR find a shop that actually works on banshee's adn see if anyone in there is wirth a shit.. 2nd if you spray gas in i t and it starts you have NO fuel. either turn the gas on OR check the fuel lines for fuel FLOW. if they have flow remove the carbs and take OUT the floats and the needle and seats adn BLOW compressed air through them.. if NO flow remove the petcock and clean it out.. clean off the fuel filters in the tank.

dont youjust LOVE having a "helping hand"