Leadfoot350

if you measure the top of the cylinder to the exhaust port and to the transfer ports then guys on here will be able to tell you about the port job. By looking at it I like the flow a lot. He did not go too big on the intake and went for flow and on the transfer tunnels he made them huge which is great. Measure the distance for us and we can tell you what pipes and what rpms the power will come on.

I have two 35pwk's and I want to convert to a twist. What are the part numbers I need to look for?

I'll stick with my corded milwakee impact and never have to worry about stupid batteries. I hate those things

I think the time you guys have spent typing and reading all this conversation you could have worked a couple of more hours and had the money saved by now. Honestly porting is worth the money. I just got back from glamis with my 7mm stock cylinder banshee and that thing rips. When the power comes on now its amazing. Kevin ported it for me and Im pretty sure it will run with a 7mm cub or beat it now. I have spent many years and different engine configurations and this one rips. Thanks kevin.

repack those silencers too. less noise and it goes faster too.

are you fat?

for the filters go to tsracing.com. They sell s&b filters. The one you want is the 8inch long ones that are at an angle. There is only one that is 8inches long so get that one. They also have the outerwears there too. As said before the motionpro cable is the way to go. For the intakes I like the boss ones you find on ebay from in2glamis. I think they are 120 bucks. Get some cel needles and around 155 main jets to get you started.

From what I have experieced with tires is to buy the ones with the largest roll out. I have seen 22" tires come from 69" roll out to 73" roll out. Thats way too much difference. I bought the 73" roll out ones and they are better for drag racing. I think the biggest they make now for the 22's are 72" roll out. So if you are going to go with a +6 arm I would go with 72" roll out 22-11-8 with 9 paddles extreme super lights. As far as gearing the roll out is going to affect it a lot. Start with stock and see how it pulls the hill

you could run it that way just make sure the jetting is right for each cylinder and try the two different pipe thing too. The stock cylinder would act like a restricter plate and keep you in check. Too funny

vitos are turning out to be out of round and should be checked over by a machinest before they are ran. Id go with the hot rods ones

the critical thing about porting is that the guy who ports the cylinder will do it to match the pipes you are running or atleast thats how it should be done. fattys are a ok pipe but some shearer inframes will add maybe another 6-10hp. They are dune friendly too. I have them on my 7mm stock cylinders that are pretty much a drag port. I dune a lot too!!!!!! Cpi's are good I hear but I have never ran then because they cost so much more money.

I would do pipes with porting. You can do that for 700. Those are the two best bang for the buck mods.

I had a shop do my stock one and they did a pretty good tach job and well it crack the weld so you have to do more than a tach

Its not done to increase the size that much, what its done for is where the cylinder and the top case meet up do not match that well. There is a 1-2mm lip that blocks the transfer air from coming up. So basically all you are trying to do is take the lip out. You can feel it with your finger if you have it apart.

On the second pic you can see it better. It looks like either you put the cases together with the pin in that spot and when you tightened everything down it made that mark or the bearing tried to sping a little. Either way the grove is tiny and for the groove to get any larger that pin would seriously have to do some digging. Spin that bearing on the crank with your hand and see if it sounds clean and free of grit. If it does put it back together and run it. I have seen far worse cases than that and mine is even worse and it runs fine.