cam2

i thought the same thing.

if you're going to change pipes, do it right the first time and get the shearers. the cpi's would be another good choice, a better choice than the T5's. you won't gain much if anything at all by going with the T5's over the fatty's you have now, maybe shift the power band slightly.

and, if they do it will cost you a lot more money than what it costs for a typical port job. i've heard of some builders that can get some great #'s from OEM jugs, but it takes a lot of man hours to do it, which in turn costs the customer more cash.

man i hope that no one is taking him seriously. no, pink plastic is faster.

here are a couple of links to what i've been using for over three years. i mainly use it to make sure that the engine is warmed up before i start ripping on it. even though it's small i can read it fine while riding, i don't try to read it when i'm ripping a$$ though. when i'm riding i just glance down and look at the need position not the numbers, if the needle is sticking directly to the right then it's at 180 degrees, if the needle is below that position then i know that it's getting hot. basically it's a stick thermometer that is soldered in a hole at an angle in a piece of copper tubing that is painted black. you cut your main coolant return line near the top of the radiator then you hose clamp the gauge in between the two pieces of hose, pretty simple. http://www.warpdriveperformance.com/index.htm http://www.warpdriveperformance.com/bansheeside_large.htm

no, i didn't read it all, or much of it. but, from what little i read, the jist of the story is that another cock knocker punk with daddies money bought the latest and greatest world beater quad and can beat anything rolling.

in case you're interested in finding what your elevation is. here is a link to the subject that is pinned in the general discussion forum. http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=71029

did you let the engine run a little bit with the radiator cap off when you started it up for the first time after putting in the coolant after the head install? if not then there may have been some air in the system. if it wasn't over heating then you probably had air in the cooling system.

when i first replied i wasn't sure if you knew for a fact that you had a 65mm bore because it seemed that you weren't sure of the bore or stroke. if you are sure that it's a 65mm bore then it was "cast" for a stock stroke. i haven't heard of or seen a cub cylinder with a 65mm bore that was cast for a stroke other than a "stock" stroke. when you get into + strokes then you have to move up to the 68mm bore with the "cub cylinders". RED said that he ran his with a +4mm stroke, but it wasn't designed for it.

i know that you knew that, it's tough to be 100% specific all of the time. i wasn't sure if he knew that, i would hate for him to ruin a new cover. another thing that i forgot to add earlier was to make sure that one of the wooden blocks is directly underneath the water pump area where you will be tapping the seal and bearing in. i put one under there and another under the area where the kick starter seal is, not under the clutch basket area.

the "BIG" one at the "front" of the head. the small one on the top of the head is a vent line. some people use the vent line but you won't get as much flow or a consistant flow like you will with the big hose. the big hose is the outlet hose.

i think the reason that his compression seems low with 19cc domes is because he's up north.

it seems to me with 145psi that you could get away with a +4 advance. if you have a chance ride the bike a little bit to warm it up and get a feel for how it runs in a certain area then advance the timing and see how it runs in the same area. listen to the engine to make sure it doesn't make any odd noises or vibrates any more than normal after you advance and if it runs worse back off the timing. you may have to bump up the octane to 100 if you notice any issues, but i've ran higher compression than 145 with +4 and sometimes +6 on 100 octane without any issues. keep in mind that every bike will run a little different with similar mods.

yep, the big hose at the front of the head that goes to the radiator.

what is your compression? what size domes? what octane fuel are you using? you have to take these things into consideration while advancing your timing. if you're running a low octane fuel with high compression and you start advancing you timing then you'll get detonation, which is a bad thing. people will be able to help you easier with some more info.

the old schoolers learned the hard way. remember, always respect your elders. to add to what firehead said about the bearing and seal install..... make sure you are using a stable platform and use blocks of wood to prop up the cover so that it is some what level and stable. the seal and bearing will go in pretty tight so you need to make sure that you are driving them in the cover as evenly as possible. that's why it's important to have a stable platform so it doesn't rock around. and a little bit of grease or oil will help as well.

hhhhmmm???? if i remember correctely the # was cast on the top of the intake tract. does it look like someone ground around the mouth of the intakes? my jugs are installed (with pipes) so i wouldn't be able to give you an accurate measurement.

i could be way off base here. but, with my 421 cub +4mm (58mm stroke) 68mm bore jugs, i noticed that there was a number 58 cast in them. i believe it was in the intake tract area. it could be some casting lot number or something and it was just a coincidence that it was 58, or it meant that it was a 58mm stroke casting. :shrug: the 392 is a stock stroke 68mm bore.

well, if you've been wanting a banshee for a while now then you should go with the shee. you may regret not getting what you've been wanting. unless the banshee is in a lot worse condition than the raptor. if it's just cosmetic stuff, i wouldn't sweat it, there's a lot of good used parts floating around in the for sale forum. plus there is boat load of reasonably priced goodies on line. this was always my understanding as well.

those are good prices for either one, if they are in good shape. if you ride in real tight slower trails you may want to opt for the craptor. this a banshee site so you'll get more votes for the banshee. this is your first post so i'm going to assume that you don't currently have a banshee, right? i'm with firehead, get both if you can and if you feel that they are both in good shape. aaaaaawwwww screw it, get the banshee.

i was thinking along those lines, but i wasn't sure. sometimes i had a hard time hearing the times. if that is the case that isn't bad at all for the 350 mod class. even if it is slightly higher, that still isn't bad IMHO.

what trinity stage IV motor? they have so many. you can have more power but if you can't utilize it, it don't mean crap in a race. but, if your set up is tuned well and you can get the power to the ground you will be hauling ass with a big ole smile on your face. that's what counts, enjoy it.

Jeff, i know that the times may have been hard to keep track of. but, what times did the 350 mod class run compared to the big dogs?

no shit. i wish i could find something that was useable for that price. i would put my shee back to a more pratical ride and modify the hell out of the other one and make it drag bike.

not really. :yelrotflmao: but, now that you menton it, where have you been?