cam2

after doing some searching i found out how to install the bearing. but i was unable to use a washer on the outside with the locknut because i wouldn't have enough threads on the adjuster. i degreased the threads and put some medium strength locktite and tightened the locknut real tight. so i was wondering if anyone else has intalled the bearing without the washer? do you think that it will come loose? here's a pic.

Brad thanks for the tips. the only thing i forgot to do was rotate the flywheel, although i did put the pistons as close to the center of the stroke as possible. the engine held 6psi steady for over 8 minutes without any signs of losing pressure, according to the gauge. my setup cost less than $20 plus a few odds and ends that i already had. here's a pic of my hoakie setup.

i think that it would be easier while it's out of the frame, especially if you're doing it by yourself. when i put my engine back together when i had the stock jugs ported i put them on when the engine was in the frame, one at a time of course. but when i put 421 cub engine together i figured that it would be a big pain in the a$$ to put the jugs on while the engine was in the frame by myself. so i did it while the engine was on the bench. i had one piston up and one piston down so i only had to deal with one set of rings at a time. if you have help then you may be able to install the jugs while the engine is in the frame. also, depending on how much of the jug he ground off for the front nuts you may still have to grind a 12mm wrench (box end) in order to get it on the nuts.

yeah, http://www.uexpress.com/dearabby/ this site is more suitable for such issues.

well you do, you're just a big ol' jerk. hahaha, just kidding Dave. :beer: i believe you, but there are some areas that i ride i'll be better off with knobbies than paddles.

where do you guys order the straight paddle sand drag tires and wheels? i've done some searching on the web and haven't come up with much.

here's a link with some good info. go to Q#56 for info on modifying your stator plate. by the way, dajogejr and badassbanshee479 knew what they were talking about. http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/elecfaq.html

nice shee. that's a long ride from west palm beach. how often do you make it to croom? do you guys just ride at the front pit?

i'm in the process of building a 421 cub, shearer in-frames, 35mm pwk's, blah, blah, blah...........and i know that eventually i'll have to put a longer swingarm on my shee. so i was wondering what length people would recommend or run? the shee is going to be a play bike not a drag bike with an occasional drag race, and i do mean an occassional drag race. i'll be using knobbies and paddles depending on where i'll be riding. i won't always be riding in the open so i don't want to lose too much manueverability. i was considering a +4 but i'm not sure if that will be long enough to keep the front tires down most of the time. +6 is as long as i want to go but i'm not sure if that will be too long for my type of riding.

here's a link that will give you an idea. http://home.earthlink.net/~gellett/banshee.htm just change the the sprocket sizes, and the RPM that you think that engine will pull with those mods.

thanks fella's. :beer: i thought so, just wanted to make sure.

this may be a dumb question to some, but is it possible to put the complete engine (jugs and head installed) into the frame? when i built the engine the last time with the ported stock jugs i put them on the engine when it was mounted in the frame. it seems like it would be easier to install the cub cylinders while the engine is on the bench. so i want to make sure that i can put the complete engine in the frame with the top end on.

yep, it's unfortunate that one has to vote for what seems to be the lesser of two evils, at the time. government is so corrupt and in it for "itself" to keep the in's in, reguardless of what party they may represent is PHucking sickening. all of the ad compaigns that i've seen over the past few years has more to do with how PHucked up the opposition is than how a particular candidate is going to help us. if they had all of the answers and OUR best interest in mind they would work together to make this country a strong honest responsible society. which it isn't, and will only get worse, which will eventually be part of our downfall.

why? sure they don't have the fancy honda style carrier and they may not look as cool but what makes them junk? huh, big money?

please explain. what did they do wrong to you? or what have you heard? i'm just curious because they have some decent prices on their website so i was considering buying from them, if there are issues i would like to know.

brad, does it matter what position the pistons are in? also, is it important to have a reed petal open on the pressure gauge side? i'm sure if there was a major leak you would notice a drop in pressure, but if you had a slow leak it would seem that "maybe" there may be enough chamber pressure to keep the reed petals closed which wouldn't show much of a drop in pressure. maybe not, but i'm wondering if it's possible.

thanks Brad, that' what i was looking for. i did a search on here but i didn't search that far back in time.

i was wondering how many of you do a leak down test after rebuilding your engine? if you do, what setup do you use? i did some searching and the kits that i've found on-line were crazy money, although cheaper than rebuilding the engine again if a leak was present. i'm sure i could piece one together, so i was hoping to get some info from you guys on what parts to use and where to buy them in order to save me a bunch of trips to ten different stores. or maybe you know where to get one at a decent price. one local shop said that they charge $60 dollars to do a LD test, but i think that i could make one for that price. at least i hope i can.

absolutely, only if you bring a bunch of beer and booze :beer: oh, and some good eats. :biggrin:

i haven't ridden in the lake delancy area so i'm not sure how it is up there. if you're going to trail ride those tires will be great but if you plan on drag racing in the sand then they won't do so well. as others have said the Big Scrub area is sandy and whooped up. i typicaly ride about 7 miles east of BS down the power lines off of 445. the further you get off of the powerlines the smoother the trails are. when i ride this area i use my razr's because for the most part the trails are mainly hard packed and not deep sand except for the main trail along the power lines. although you will find some sand on the trails it isn't enough to warrant running paddles, IMHO, it just depends on where you like to ride. i'll try to keep those dates open. hopefully i'll have my engine back together and broke in by that time. which i should providing that i don't have any set backs like i've had already. i believe i have everything striaghtend out so everything should go back together smoothly providing i can find the time.

aaaaaaaahahahahahahaha...................... yeah that would be a good indication. :sad:

yeah all of the whining and bickering BS wore on me quick. your car sucks because you can't tune it so i have dumbify mine so that you have a chance...........ridiculous ::

yep, putting a cheetah kit together. i wouldn't be able to make it anyway, that's opening weekend of georgia's firearm deer season. Jared, did you do that yourself?

how many of you guys ported or had your case match ported to the jugs? the transfer ports on the jugs are larger than on the case. does it make much of a difference either way? it seems that the transfers are bigger than stock for a reason. but is it worth the risk of taking off too much material or not having the porting even on each side?

i agree with Brad's analogy about the comparison between the trinity's and the T5's. i also believe that the hit is a little more subtle with the trinity's compared to the T5's. when you mention more bottom end, is your current setup more throttle responsive? does it get on the pipe quicker?