cam2

i'm glad to hear that everything seems fine. it's good to worry about it. that way you don't screw something up by letting it set with water in it. as long as the fuel and tranny oil are free of water and it starts up and runs you're good to go. if everything is in order it's best to let it run for a while at the normal operating temperature in order to dissipate the moisture out of the places where it should't be.

if the tires are junk, then cut them off with a sawzall or die grinder. it's a little messy but it works. i remember back in the day my dad would use the old school bumper jacks to break the bead on car tires. he would lay the tire under the bumper, put the jack stand on the tire as close to the rim as possible. then he would work the jack. eventually the weight of the car would cause the bead to break. then he would use a tire iron to work the tire off of the rim. yeah, i know it sounds backwoods. but, after a 6 pack and a lot of cussing it always worked.

yes, the metal stud rides on top of the swingarm rail.

great point. the inside and outside lips, along with the hose clamp and the carb lip need to be degreased and dry before installation. i've ran pods for 3 years without any issues. Eddie, i'm running pods on 35mm PWK's, so i don't know what works well with the stock carbs.

i would get your stock jugs ported by a good shop for more power while they are off. your stock jugs shouldn't have the casting flaws like the cubs have when the engine builders get them. you may have some very minor casting flaws in your stockers, but nothing like what has been seen in the cubs.

yes, when oil and water mix it will cause the milky oily substance you're talking about. most likely it's from your filter oil, or possibly the oil from your pre-mix when the bike was jostled around, fuel was sloshed around as well. did you let the filters dry out? if not you'll pull water moisture from the filters into the engine. what you need to do is service your filters like normal (making sure that they are free of water), and drain the carbs in order make sure no water got in the bowls. if it starts up and runs fine, other than the excessive smoke. run it for a while in order to get out any moisture that may have gotten into the engine. didn't you say that you mixed more oil than normal? if so then you may see more smoke from that.

i agree with these two. i highly doubt there is much if any power diffence between the 2's and 3's. the 3's are a more simple design that snap together where as the 2's hold the petals to the cages with screws. my buddy had a set of 2's that came apart, so heed Bansh-eman's warning. if you're getting new go with the 3's with that being said. on a high flowing engine the 3's may be a little better when you use the cascade stuffers intead of the factory stuffers. i don't think you can get different stuffers for the 2's. the one on the left of the pic is the cascade stuffer.

personally, i would do the 4mil stroker. especially if you can get a good deal on a good crank. plus, it sounds like you're going to split the cases anyways. so you may as well do it. it sounds like you have a good plan in place. get the core of the engine done the way you want then add on the better peripherals when you can afford them.

yes, it's easy to do if you have the correct flywheel puller like this one: http://store.albaaction.com/shop/DS001001.html it's important that you use one like the one shown on the link. if you use the claw type you can and most likely will screw up your flywheel. also, an impact wrench will be a big help if you have access to one. also, after you install the plate and the flywheel it's important that you set the gap between the pickup coil and the raised tabs on the flywheel. the gap specs are .015 to .020. set the gap somewhere in that range with a set of feeler gauges.

read this post from majicmike about ricky stator. http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...=78353&st=0 yes, the adjustable timing plate is nice to have. especially when you get your jugs ported. you state that you're running 21cc domes so i feel that you should be fine with +4 timing and 93 octane. any more timing or compression then you'll probably need to bump up the octane. when you set the plate to +4 listen closely to the engine so that there isn't any odd noises or pinging. plus, keep an eye on your spark plugs. if they loosen up then this is an indication that you're detonating. if so, back off the timing, and/or run higher octane fuel.

yes, the pro-flo aluminum flange adapter is designed to work with the stock air box. and, yes it's worth it, it seals a heck of alot better than the stock setup. plus it flows more air. if you ride in some mud and a little water but you don't submerge the bike then run without the lid. the pro-flo setup is designed so you don't have to run the lid if you don't want to. if you stay away from the mud and water then you might want to run K&N clamp on pod filters with outerwares. they will flow more air.

is it orange? i know someone up at croom that still rides one of those.

yep, although it's cheaper to change the front sprocket. try a 15 tooth on the front. but, it also depends on what type of riding you do as far as the terrain and your tire heigth. if you ride in real open terrain with a firm surface then you may want to try a 16. it's an experimental thing.

i was thinking the same thing. now the 4800-5200 (if new) is a great deal.

hell yeah it is, unless you don't have the balls to tell them no. phuck them, if they want to ride then they need to get their own bike. that's right, he go phuck himself.

yes, a clean up job is to get rid of the casting flaws. the cubs were designed as an out of the box drag ported cylinder. some builders will do more port work if you want to spend the extra cash. yep, for no extra charge. if a builder is charging extra for a clean up then you may want to shop around a little more. there are plenty of great builders out there that don't charge extra for a clean up job. oh no, not another builder "bash off" thread.

yeah, i think it would be real tough to clean out of a gauze type filter like the K&N's. yep, you will be better off getting the correct oil.

damn, scooter, you have to be more careful. i hope you heal up quick. if not, a half gallon of jack and a bottle vikes will help ease the pain.

oh yeah, you're spinning way too much. you're right about adjusting your gearing for tight trails. but, instead of going back to stock gearing (14/41) try a 15 tooth front sprocket. they're cheap enough.

nope, this is the first that i heard of it. i'm not surprised though. jeff and the boys put a lot of time and effort into C&R, but they were restricted as far as the scheduling of the dates because of the property only being opened once a month, for the most part. i bet the "necks" are gettin' with it tonight down there with TRACY LAWRENCE being concert.

yep, personally i feel you should be one tooth up on the front not one down. 450's are tuff to beat. if you aren't able to get your shee ported yet atleast gear up a little (unless you're 240LB's+) it will help with your top speed, plus it will spread each gear out a little so you're not shifting so soon.

absolutely. parralel with the crank shaft. i know it sounds risky. you shouldn't break off a piece of solder in your cylinders. i haven't, yet. but, solder is soft and it shouldn't hurt any thing if a "small" piece did break off. i would rather have a "small" piece of solder in my jugs than a piece of sand. use electrical solder from a place like radio shack (.062 diameter). it tends to be softer than solder that is typically used for sweating copper plumbing joints.

yes, it will work fine just as long as it doesn't leak air pressure and you plug off the intake and exhaust ports. use something like the rubber plugs shown in the pic i posted earlier. all you're doing when you're doing a leak down test is to make sure that the intake, combustion, crank, and exhaust area (minus carbs and pipes) of the engine don't have any air leaks that will eventually cause coolant, air, and or transmission oil leaks to get into the areas where they shouldn't. when you do a pressure test and unfortunately if the pressure drops significantly it will let you know if you have a intake gasket leak, a crank seal leak, a head gasket leak, or a cool head o-ring leak (if you use one instead of a stock head), a base gasket leak, etc, etc.

LOL. i figured that it had more to do to you getting hammered last night. i did. as a matter of fact, i'm hammered now. WHOOOO>>>>HHHOOOOOO :beer:

if i sold them i would sell them as a set. it's easier that way.