cam2

that's what first came to mind when i read the initial post. after i put my cub motor together i had the same issue and i was like WTF? i used the wrong size fuel line (too big) and fuel was leaking down along side of the bowls on my carbs onto the case then down the hole in the center of the cases making it look like an oil leak. when i replaced the fuel lines the issue went away.

i've been running the cascade stuffers with trinity intakes and VF 3 reeds for about 5 months without any issues. also, if you do use the stuffers that come with the VF 3's you should open the holes up. they are small so i took a dremel and sand paper and opened them up quite a bit before i ran the cascades.

yep, he's a good guy who does great work, he'll take care of you. i know how it is to wait for your stuff, but some things take time. where are you located? the last i knew he was in buffalo NY.

yeah, all the timing that you are using can cause a detonation problem alone without high compression. with what dave is saying that is a butt load of advanced timing, especially for 91 octane.

i've heard of people using diesel fuel. if your clutch cover gasket is still in good shape i would put the cover on and fill the tranny with diesel then pull the drain plug. i would also rotate the tranny gears every once in a while in order to get out the shavings between the teeth. keep doing this until the diesel comes out clean then i would flush it out a couple times with the fluid/oil that you plan on using in the tranny. it may be messy and may take a couple of gallons of diesel. but it would be easier than pulling the engine and splitting the cases.

nice deal. here in FLA that's a lucky steal of a deal, in other parts of the country it may not be, but here it is.

also, try to clean around the carbs as much as possible before you take them out of the carb boots in order to prevent any loose debris from getting in the carb boots or the air box. when you have the carbs removed then you'll be able to clean everything a little better so that nothing gets in the boots when you go to install the carbs. if you have any issues let us know. if you ever get in a jamb with anything let me know, i live in north tampa not too far from land o'lakes.

it's hard to see from the pic in the link, but make sure you rotate the flywheel and set the gap between the two raised tabs on the flywheel and the pickup coil.

http://designengineering.com/products.asp?m=sp&pid=22 this is what i use. i bought them from advance auto parts for around $14 for two. there is a steel ring at the unstitched end that has to be removed. i undid the stitching and slid the ring out. then i folded the now unstitched end and slid it on the stinger first. they will stretch easily enough to slide on. i didn't use any thing to hold them in place but if i did i would use plastic tie wraps because they won't get no where near hot enough to harm the tie wraps or the outerwears. i've had no issues at all with them harming the outerwears. i will definitely use them again if need be.

12,000, big deal, you still can't jet and tune an engine. :yelrotflmao: i'm joking, just busting your balls :beer:

will there be different colors of baseball style hats? if so and they're darker colors i'll take two. if not i'll take one.

damn, i wish i had something competetive to run so i could get in on the trash talking that's been going on. it sounds like you guys are having a lot of fun just doing that here and on atvflorida. i'll be there again to check out the racing along with the rest of the festivities.

if the stock rubber will work use it. if not then a good sealer should work and it's definitely better than nothing. it needs some type of seal.

that's for sure. it's tough to have your cake and eat it too. but if it's a play bike and your looking for the occasional race then the dune port would be your best option of the two. the more you try to setup the shee for dragging the further you take away from being somewhat of a trail worthy machine.

wow, i agree. 20cc domes and +4 timing on pump gas is not a good mix. unless your elevation is real high, real high. i've seen and heard of v-forceII reeds breaking. how long have you ran this engine? like loco asked, check your compression, hopefully it's not too late. you may have to bump up the octane to around 100 unless your comp is high then you'll need more.

keep in mind that your tire heigth will change your over all gearing. use the chart that loco posted and you'll get what i'm saying. if you have 15/41 already i would try it first. the problem is that you'll be running on three different surfaces with (most likely) three different types of tires. so each surface and tire combo will most likely prefer a different ratio. it's about trial and error, you may find a "sweet spot" gear ratio that you'll be happy with in the different terrains that you'll be riding.

now that's funny.

chill the F out. maybe you should have checked more than one source, like an official source. i wasn't trying to be an a$$. i wish the place was 36,000 acres. the way i read it, i didn't think you typed it from memory, it looked like you got it from another source. i just wanted to clear it up, i didn't mean to start anything.

yeah i've seen those, they look like they should not leak. i would like something like these from modquad, but i'll need to measure and see if they'll work. but with my luck if they did they probably would leak. clamps

the first # sure looks like a "2" to me...........................hahahaha, just joking. you're right, it's a "3". well that sucks for gary, damn ::

who makes a "no leak" set of exhaust clamps? clamps for the pipe and stinger joint. i've been running the stock rubbers but they're starting to leak real bad even with hi-temp silicone. i want a nice looking set, but i want them to seal good as well.

dave, didn't you buy the bike used? are you sure the jugs weren't ported? are the jets clearly stamped with a "3" and not with a "2" for the first #? i agree, the plug looks good. i'm not trying to bust your balls but "350" does seem large. before i had my stock jugs ported my setup was damn near the same as yours. except i didn't have v-force reeds, and i ran a dual stage foam filter without the lid instead of the K&N filter with the lid. i know the K&N flows better than the dual stage foam, but i don't think it would be that big of a difference especially since you're running a lid and i was't. if i remember correctly i used "280" mains and stock pilots, i forget the needle position. hopefully you don't have an airleak. if everything checks good and you find that you need larger pilots and you can't get them locally let me know and i'll mail them to you. i have 27.5 pilots if you need them.

you need an over ride tranny if you want to shift under full power in a drag race. i'm running my 421 cub with the inexpensive mods that you mentioned and it shifts fine when i'm not under full power. rip on the throttle, let off, shift, rip on the throttle, etc, etc. try that in a drag race with a fast well set up quad and you'll get beat. there is no way that i'm able to shift properly under full power in a race when i'm running my paddles and getting good traction, no way. the people with experience say the same thing. saying that cubs have bottem end is like saying rosie o'donnell is hot, it don't make sense.

damn, you better hope their strong and can hold it up for a long time with the hot exhaust gases and smoke, if not you'll be going for the ride of your life. :: on a serious note: 'Sprntr81' is correct.