cam2

this is a home made kit that i put together and it worked great. i bought the plugs from the "ace hardware store". it takes a little effort to get them in the exhaust ports. but they'll go in with the aide of a screw driver. i don't recall the sizes, but the exhaust plugs are a little smaller than the intake plugs. i forgot to add the pic. here it is.

what's wrong with 8"? no, i think i'll keep these for a while, i like them.

yeah that should run real good. it would make a good open trail motor.

so now you're getting lazy on us. now that you've moved to the PNW you have that layed back take it easy attitude. i agree, for the average joe it probably isn't worth the hassle of going back to the shop and have them keep the proper pressure in your tires. plus, it probably wouldn't be cost effective if they charge you each time you need a squirt or two of nitrogen to keep the proper pressure.

DAMN!!!!!! i would be F'N PISSED too if i forgot to put gas in my tank, LOL. well, atleast it was something simple, and a lot of times it is. i bet you won't do that again. you may not be able to gauge how much fuel is in your tank accurately by looking down in it. but it will give you a pretty good idea. if you see the bottom of the tank, you're difinetly low. you need to check the gas every time you go to start it up. it doesn't hurt a thing by keeping the tank full or near full.

good news. i called the croom phone number 352-797-5759 and asked about you being an out of state resident without a title. i was told that since you are an out of state resident that you don't have to show any kind of proof of owner ship. you'll still need the sticker. but all you have to do is show them your out of state drivers license, and they'll record the VIN # from your bike then you'll be good to go. is your VIN # still legible? i run in-frame shearers as well and i've never been asked about spark arrestors, so you should be fine at croom.

yep, get your jugs ported.

a few years ago i paid $65 to have mine trued and welded. i can't see it being much more than that now a days. i agree with Malott 1. if the cases are split you might as well do it.

good point. you must have put a boat load of oil in the case. the best thing to do is to take the front plastic off and possibly the gas tank so you can look down where the oil is leaking on in order to find where it is leaking from. if you think it is the vent tube you should follow the routing and see if that's where it's coming from. if so, blow it out as best as you can with an air hose, re-install it and see if it leaks again.

do you have a grinder of some sort? a bench grinder and vise grips, a hand grinder and a vise, etc.,etc.? if so, you don't need no stinkin special tool. or a shop to do it for you.

i love certain sections of ocala. i've heard that they've restricted a lot of areas. i've ridden up there many times in the past, but not this past riding season. so i don't know how much it has changed. i know in the past you didn't need a permit to ride, but i don't know if that has changed either. maybe one of the guys that have been there lately will chime in and clarify some things.

LOL. double penetrated with no lube. F that deal.

i agree. i went the big bore route on my stock jugs before i went to the 421 cub. it ran well, but i wish i would have went 4mm crank route to begin with.

hell yeah he's been down there pimpin banshee parts to the blue hairs. happy B-day John.

the odd looking link is most likely the master link. it's been a loooooooooong time since i've worked on a bicycle. but if i remember correctly that should pop off with the aid of a screw driver and possibly a hammer. it probably doesn't have a retaining clip like a motor cycle chain has.

if you're going to croom you'll need to bring a registration or title. atleast some form of proof of ownership. you'll need this in order to get the annual permit in order to ride there (july 1st to june 30th). it's typically $50 for the year, but they pro-rate it as the year goes on. this time of year it should be $35 because the current permit period will end june 30th.

LOL. one of this days i would love to. and when/if i do you'll be the first person i PM to hook up with. a good buddy of mine keeps trying to get me to go with him. things just haven't worked out for me yet (married with children). he goes up there every august for a family reunion. he's from whitehall and he used to ride at SL when he was younger.

if you think you blow the tires off now and have traction issues, wait until you run a cub motor. the things that Jeff suggested that you get for your setup now your going to need for the cub any way, "CPIs or Shearers, V Force, Cool head w/domes". it's not wasted money. listen to Jeff, get what you need and if you're still not satisfied then you'll have all the goodies already to compliment the cub.

actually, NO, it sucks. could you please clean your bike up so we can see the slider easier? ahahahaha, i'm BSing, damn that looks sweet.

what makes you think that it's tranny fluid? the tube from your coolant over flow tank is typically routed on the right side. and i've noticed that when riding hard and the bike has been bounced around a lot coolant sometimes leakes on the pipes, stock or aftermarket. obviously coolant and oil are two different liquids, but maybe that's what you're seeing. is your gas cap vent tube routed to the right side? i'm throwing some stuff in the air. yeah, what tyler said. some pics and more clarification please.

damn, that sucks ass. i know croom well. the camping is nice if you can get a site. the riding is nice (not) if you're used to riding bulls or broncs. it's whooped to hell. riding in the pits is fun for a while, but for the most part it's not much fun on the shee. i wish i could meet up with you in ocala but i have family plans all weekend long.

i can't help you with info on mx tracks. but there are people on atvflorida.com that can. check out the racing scene forum. hopefully the smoke from all of the brush fires has gone away by the time you get here. also, keep in mind that not all of us in the south drive like the old a-holes from the north.

i used this one. http://www.farmandsandtoys.com/partdetail.asp?partid=141 the end that goes around the swinger pivot bolt area (big circle) spreads apart to install it and then there is a allen screw that holds it closed. the metal stud that sticks out from the side sits ontop of the swingarm rail.

i agree. i agree.

when i put a +4 swinger on my shee i also put on a braided break line. i couldn't get it to build pressure until i put a hose on the bleeder valve with it turned opened and put the other end into a bowl of fresh fluid. after i did that it didn't take long to build pressure. once it starts building pressure and starts taking fluid out of the fluid reservoir you you can close the valve, make sure there's enough fluid in the reservoir then bleed the lines like you normally would.