Leadfoot350

keihen does not make a 30. Are they clones? They make 28 33 34 35 and so on

I agree about the cpi pipes.

I used a jig saw with the longest blade I could find. It was very easy to control. Ok about the other mods. You can get things that will be needed in the future for a larger more powerfull motor such as rechamber your head, buy a new head(everyone on here will say noss head but trinity makes a nice one as well but cost more), if you can not use all 6 of your gears in the sand you can go to a 13 front sprocket, v-force reeds, timming plate, or you can just spend it all on suspension if you really think that the stock set up slowing you down. A +4 swing arm puts less weight on the rear tires so you need tires that will hook up better and the 22-11-8's have the most traction. I have a +6 swing arm and now need these tires. I am just rambling on here so I think I am done lol

ya like 10 grand more for a drager.

I was just saying what I would do if I had to do it over. I ported and welded the crank. I could have sold my old crank on ebay and not payed to have it welded and bought a +4 with 795 pistons for about 500. Also once you port the cylinders you will not be able to stroke it and will have to buy new cylinders so you might as well do it all at once if you have the money all at once. Also dunes are smooth becasause the wind blows then that way. You really dont need all the suspension unless you are a fat ass or juice. You could build a +4 stroker with porting and have about 70-75 on pump gas and have a mild motor that last and will haul ass and you will not have to buy that 4-8 dollar race gas. That is what I would do after doing what I have done and if you ride dunes dont get the 2-1 carb you will loose all your top end and in dunes that is what you need.

anyone have some wiseco 50 over 65.25 pistons for me for a good deal?

quick sand or jd performance are great choices and +2+1 is the most popular choice

If you dune you really dont need the best suspension. Stock works fine. Go with a +4 stroker crank and get the cylinders ported and some carbs to go with it. If you lenghen that swing arm you will need 22-11-8 tires so leave it stock untill you cant keep the front end down or want a longer swing arm to get over the woops faster if there are any infront of the hill like oldsmobile hill.

edit

I have one 30 over piston if that helps.

You can use a stock length line up to +6.

You can use a stock length line up to +6.

I have had this same thing with the 2-1 carb set up. Actually 3 times now. You will have to build a leak down tester and check for air leaks.

RIS makes a titainium axle for stock to -6 and you can dune with it. I am waiting for them to make wider ones. I think they want around 400-500 and I am going to get the hub to hub with aluminum parts on it.

I totally agree with you!!!!!!!!! I have 20 10 10 on 10 paddles and they dont hook that well with my 60 hp motor and I bottom out slamming the frame into the sand with the 20 inch tires. I went to a +6 swing arm and am going to get 22 11 8 on 10 paddle extreme double buffs. I am not going to chance it with tripple buffs because of all the glass at the bottom on oldsmobile hill in glamis. Like fixrod said you want to go straight and fast so get these size tires if not skat traks. Or you could just buy my on season 20 10 10 10 paddles with dougles blue label rims. These tires are perfect condition.

For sand you need to run what you have now and see if you can pull 6th gear and change from there. You can use stock gearing for this.

why dont you get better shocks first for the aplication you are planning on getting and then get the a-arms. That is what I did.

Since you need new chain and sprokets you might as well convert to 530 ring style. I dont know anything about this but I am sure that someone will. X-ring has less friction so less drag on your motor.

Can you start it? I would run straight 108 or higher. Run it like it is for a tank or more and then measure it again. If it is still that high then put the stock head back on and see what that one says.

Do you use socket type allen wrenches or just the angle ones? I can get way more torque with the socket ones.

if the sproket is fairly new I would not change it. I have about 3 different rear sprokets for different conditions at glamis and for different mods. I use the same chain for all of them.

If you are cheap like you say get a 13 front off ebay. If you do not want to go that much then you can get a 42 or 43 rear but you and I know that the rears are more money than the fronts. With a new 13 front also you will not need a new chain but with a bigger rear you might need a new one.

Look on their web site

bitchenbanshee or fan hq is the best way to go with porting and a longer swing arm. Almost every true hill shooter runs what fan hq runs with either smoothies up front or what he has. 20 10 10's are for stock lenght bikes with not too much power. If you dune a lot you can get double buff style for lighter tire. You will have to special order that tire but it is very popular.

Rudy Kurtz does boring for 30 bucks a cylinder and it is 8 bucks each way so total is 76. His number is 760 244-8834. I know he sells pistons but I am not sure how much they are. If they are too much get them off ebay for 100-145.