Leadfoot350
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Everything posted by Leadfoot350
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Look on trinitys web site trinityracing.com under the tech section and they will give you a ruff estimate on what to use. I think it is a 48 and 175 also. MAKE SURE that you are using NEW STRONG reeds that work good either that the 2-1 will suck big time. I would suggest that you should get some boyson reeds or v-force reeds.
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Where do you ride and are you planning on porting your banshee in the future because you should!!!!!!!! There are a lot of different choices and this will help to norrow it down.
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from your name it sounds like you ride in the dunes. I would sugest that you get either cpi inframes because those are great with porting or the new t-6. I have t-5's and those are one of the most popular sand pipes around and from what I have heard about the t-6 those sound even better. The cpi's are something that I have never personally experianced but I heard that they are better than tommeys. Just what I have heard. The sst and the fatty are more intended for trail ridding rather than nice smooth fast dunes rides where you are more on the pipes in higher rpms.
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I might have run them a little too lean but the bike pulled hard all the way through and never cut out. I am going to try 185 instead of 180 on the 35 2-1
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Well all I can say is I love ebay. I got 65mm pistons for 112 and 2 16cc trinity domes for 29 bucks. Now I have to get it bored. Thinking about calling Ted at mission and see if he can squeeze me in. So leason be learned change your plugs often.
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what do I do
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Getting Rid Of The Rear Brake?
Leadfoot350 replied to Leadfoot350's topic in Banshee Repairs and Mods
Ok I guess I will put it back on but I lost 5.7 lbs taking it off. lol I got into this mode of light weight everything and could not stop. -
my spark plug angle piece broke off a little and then the posilin piece that is around the electrode is gone. Well the piston bashed all of those parts into the 18cc dome. There is some lines on the wall of the sleeve. They are not too visable but you can feel them if you rub your finger over them (about 3). I have 64.75 pistons right now. Should I just run it and get a new dome and at the end of the season rebuild or should I take the top end off and have to get new pistons and rebore the cylinders? This is the first trip on these pistons too so it bums me out. Also do I just get the next size up 65? or do I go up two sizes instead? You can just barely feel them. I had 140 when I left and after the weekend I have 140 in the good one and now 135 in the bad one if that helps.
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Getting Rid Of The Rear Brake?
Leadfoot350 replied to Leadfoot350's topic in Banshee Repairs and Mods
could you find out who it was on planet sand that did this because I am not sure how long to make it and how it worked. and also I can not get into planet sand -
I was at RIS and saw that most of the bikes there mounted it to the braket that holded the black box for the tors under the left side of the gas tank. It looks like it was suposed to be there in the first place and opens up the rear for better looks.
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If you ever want to get it ported then buy a aftermaket head because it will change your compression a lot and your shaved head will be useless. There is a guy that sells v-force on ebay for 200 so check that out too.
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Getting Rid Of The Rear Brake?
Leadfoot350 replied to Leadfoot350's topic in Banshee Repairs and Mods
I have a street bike too so I understand exactly what you mean about using more rear that front but that is to keep the front from locking up cuz once you do that you are crashing unless you can put a foot down. I have a +6 swing arm and a stainless steel line. The reason I dont like useing the rear is because with my boots on it instantly locks up on me. On my street bike I have normal shoes on so I can feel more of what I am doing. -
I dont really ever use my rear brakes because I cant feel my foot that well while wearing boots. So when I push the rear brake it locks up instantly on me so I just use the front brakes. I removed the rear brake and everything about it to save weight. My friends say to put it back on because that is not safe at all. I have not even used my rear brake in the past year. They said that if I was going to take off brakes that I should take off the fronts. Well that got me thinking that what if I took off the fronts and used the front brake lever and ran a long ass brake line to the rear to work that brake instead of the front. What do you guys think about this. I ride only glamis sand dunes and I have experianced that the front tires will lock up and slide while going down hill.
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scat track extreme haulers!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I got the 20 10 10 9 paddles tires but would rather have the 22 9 8 9 paddle ones because it looks way better and it makes you go up the hill better!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Screw v-blades they feel funny and slide all over the place while you are going up a hill at an angle. Dont feel right at all.
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I think it is tudorsperformance.com?
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Ya sounds good to me with the 35's
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dont connect anything just remove the black box. Less weight too!!!!!!!
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I have the trinity head and like it a lot. This is the only one I have owned so I dont know if it is the best. It says that it cools better. As far as the domes I have the turbo mods done on mine but my friend who used to work there said that it was not noticable difference. Nice head though.
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Do you really need 1 hp more for playing around. These guys are pro racers and need all the hp they can get. All in all it is the rider on the bike because they all have the same technology.
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with 20 inch tires go with a 13 in the sand with a piped motor. When you get porting done go with a 15
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Also take off the little black box under the gas tank on the left side of the bike. Thats about it.
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Why are you putting in a new shift drum? I put on the tutors or tudors kit on mine and it shifts real smooth now. Also look at the shift shaft where it moves up and down on the shift star. Check to see if that spring is tight because they are weak and loose their tention quick. Thats about it. You could try a shift star but I have never had one so I couldnt say how good they work. Tudors said that with their kit you dont need one. Also check out the wear of the gears and the shift forks too and port match the case to your cylinders. It is not that hard of a job.
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Has anybody seen a dyno chart of how much rpms and hp that you loose if all of you say that it is a huge difference.
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just do it seperatly. What kind of ridding do you do?
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This is all great info guys. Sounds like I should wait untill my stock unit takes a crap. I am still not sure if it is worth the money for the hp you get out of it. I know my friend has a 250r with a 350 ct kit on it and he went to a cr500 ignition and it gave him 4 miles and hour up olds hill at glamis. That is worth it to me but 4 mph is about 7 hp I think?

