Leadfoot350

where are you going to get 30's at?

any pictures of the 12 port design?

A long rod motor is a waste of $$$. You wont make any more power. Just get a stroker +4 and get it ported to that size crank. it will be about 400 for the crank and 400 for the porting and 100 for the 795 pistons and 75 for the clutch and 300 for the carbs with the k&n filters with cable.

I have jd performance a-arms +3 +1 because he was the cheapest on +3 arms. I only ride in glamis and have works tripple with rezzies with the set up. I also have a +6 swing arm to round out the package. I am noticing that more companies are making long travel a arms now these days and the price has droped big time!!! vs roll designs. I like my set up a lot but would like more travel and adjustable shocks. I think it would be about 500 more for long travel but well worth it. Either way you go will be a better set up than stock that bottoms out all the time.

I am preaty sure that that is the right cylinder so there is no way that oil from the tranny could be getting in there so rule that one out. It is only possible for the left one to do that from what I have heard.

I wonder which one would be better on a ported motor with a 35 on it? That is what I have and am seriously thinking about buying 28's because I have never seen a drag bike with cv on it and this is the very first dyno graph that I have see with a 2-1. Also I think with the flat side style carb it might be better than loosing 10 hp at 6000. Anyone have any thoughts about this?

eddie sanders racing is good for 250rs so give him a call.

Holy crap you ride at least 2 hours a day????????????????? I think you ride your shee more than anyone in here. As for the kickstarter problem you need to see if the pistons will go up and down to see if it is just related to the kickstarter alone. There is serveral ways to do this. The one I can think of is take off the head and try pushing the pistons down and see if that works. Is the bike stuck in gear too????

I have no idea what you are trying to say with your dynos. You say that there is a 10 hp increase at 6000 rmps but on the graphs I dont see it. Are you being sarcastic in your post? I really have no idea what you are saying is better carb wise. Do you have a graph of stock vs cv on one paper where we can see the lines right next to each other and see easier? Or maybe the second picture is that or maybe the second picture is two runs with the cv carb????????????????

Yes you can. Eibach sells them for about 100 bucks. Call them and find out which one you need because iddiots at the place I got mine did not get it strong enough and I bottom out sometimes and it hurts my back.

I hear ya I am begging to hate mine too. Does that look like coolant on top of the pistons? Is that compression equal? How did it ride?

I hear ya I am begging to hate mine too.

get some stiffer springs for the clutch and use three and see how that does. You can use a dremmel to clean up the casting lines and polish up the exhaust of the cylinder to get a little more power because your funds are limited.

I dont even notice more low end at all. I have been burning up spark plugs on the right side because one might have more compression than the other. There is way less up top too. I have heard that the 28 pwk's are a way better carb set up because of the design of the pwks. I like to race up olds a lot and this will help me to be faster.

I agree with blue. Your next step is porting. You have to decide if you want to stroke it before you port it though. You can weld up your stock crank for 120ish or get a +4 stroker crank for 400. If you are looking for more low end buy the stroker crank and have the cylinders ported. If you port for stock crank then you will have to buy new cylinders for a stroker crank if you ever decide to go that way. If you dont want to do the stroker then for a ported motor with 28 pwks.

kehins and mikunis are different in their sizes.

stay with 2. I am going to go back to 2 lets just say that

I remember that harry at trinity said not to use the orings on the 2-1 carb manifold becuause they did not work with the v-force reeds. His new cv manifold now is able to use v-force reeds. I did not use them and instead used the gaskets that came from the wiseco kit and in addition used black silicone. Everything on the motor is torqued down very precisly so that is not an issue. I might be leaking air at the bottom on the right side base gasket for the cylinder. Could I be leaking from the case halfs? The head does not leak air because it does not leak anti freeze. I aggree with running colder plugs so next time I will do that. Ted Boyko did the porting and added bost ports and did the transfers and everthing in a dunner style port. I took my cylinders to port magic last time because I called mission yamaha and they wanted 150 bucks to bore them out and Rudy only wanted 60. Rudy said that he has seen the wildest dirtiest ports out there and that he can most likely rule mine out as being the problem. He said mine were mild. He recomended that I get another 35 pwk and get rid of that 2-1 set up. He said the only guys that run those are the trinity guys and you loose a lot of top end. I was going to get 28's but I ride full throttle in glamis only so I dont really need that much bottom end. In the future I would like to go to either a 4 or 7 mil stroker and the 35's should be perfect for that motor.

Check the end of the shift shaft where it makes a C shape. Either the spring on that is loose or the C shaped peice is broken. If so go to the dealer and they are 35 bucks. easy fix if thats what it is.

I dont have a vacum tester and dont even know where to get one or how to use it. It idles good and revs clean and revs back down fine as well.

do you guys think that I am not running high enough octaine? does anybody else have a ported motor with 18cc domes and +4 timming that runs at glamis or sea level?

Are you a real person? or just someone making up stupid post for your own enjoyment? The things you say are really out there from common sense.

I am running half 110 and half 91 with comes out to 100.5 octaine at sea level or glamis level what ever that is. The domes are 18 the timming plate is set at +4 the plugs are ngk b8es at 30 gap. The other piston is fine again and I want to know why only one piston side is having the spark plug burn up? Could it have anything to do with the trinity 2-1 carb? WHY ONLY ONE SIDE???????????????

I changed my stock quad over the summer so I can beat some of my friends 250r atcs. I went to these mods, t-5s, v force, +4 timming, ted boyko ported cylinders, 2-1 35 carb, 18cc domes and thats about it I think. The first trip out at glamis the quad ran great just some gearing problems. When I got home I wanted to make sure the comp was still 140 and when I took out the plugs the right side plug's tip was burned off and the white porsilin was gone and fell into the motor and messed up the bore and piston and dome. I got the top end redone and tried again not knowing why this happend. Well I went to glamis last weekend and I even went from a 180 to 188 main and put the neddle one down as well. It ran great again if not better but when I was looking at the plugs again tonight the right plug again was fucked up. I run half 110 and 91 with 927 at 37 to one ratio. I need to buy more pistons and get it rebored again. I need help this is costing me 180 bucks each time and I am already at 40 and will have to go to 50 over and I dont want to go to a big bore when I resleve it. Why is it only one side that is doing this???? and why is it doing this?

I never knew that the center devider fell out? Do they put it back in somehow or just leave it out? Hey knuk I know exactly who you sound like. Some kung foo gun master.