Banchetta

By next week, everything will be frozen...we were riding across ice the weekend before, then we had all that rain and 50 degree weather and melted everything...suppose to go down to the teens for thursday and friday...

Stock pipes have a tendency to smoke a lot more than aftermarket pipes. They have alot more baffles inside that get oiled up and constantly burning up all the time...My first suggestion would be to get a K&N filter w/ the aluminum adaptor. If not, then you'll be sucking sand into the motor and you'll be replacing the pistons in less than a year....For 90 bucks, money well spent. Best insurance you can buy. Next, you can try running Amsoil. I'm still skeptical w/ the synthetic oils, but I know a few people that have been running amsoil @80:1 mixture. Personally I run 40:1. Most likely your still running stock suggestion of 20:1. Way too rich. Finally, I'd suggest some aftermarket exhaust. That'll eliminate the smoke in half. Just be careful and do some research before ordering pipes...pipes are everything. Get the pipes for YOUR type of riding...it'll help put the power where YOU need it...

The needles always stay in the orifice a little. If not, they would go to the side and the slides wouldn't be able to go back down, causing your motor to stick wide open.....your needles have some play and can move side to side quite a bit, so they must remain in the hole a little even when your needles are on the 5th clip...

runninin good is one thing. Running great is another...

ARe you letting off the throttle or backing off the throttle a little when its fading??? Or does this happen at full throttle? The boost bottle does nothing..

I've seen just a piped shee w/ pc pipes only handle 270 mains...anymore and it would bog out....so I'd say do a plug check after a wot run in 6th gear, shut her down and pull the plugs...If you don't know how to read them, then post a pic.

damn, that sucks. I might be out there from 11:00 till 2:00. I have some stuff to do in the morning and my riding partner has to leave at 2:00 unless some of you stay, then I will to..

I tried a set of pc pipes for a week, I couldn't pull them off fast enough.....I ride a lot of trails, sand pits, etc.....those are the last pipes I'd use...you'll go through a lot of clutches trying to stay in the powerband on the trails...get some midrange pipes and you WON"T be disappointed. Certain pipes for certain riding...Pipes are everything..

3-4 years is what I get......I order them from the local stealershop....Its one of those parts that you don't see much for aftermarket.

So all in all I take it that its not a problem to get it running good with the stock carbs, so I will keep going with the jetting. But I still wonder how much benefit I will get from running bigger carbs. thanks kevin 443581[/snapback] pm your email and I'll send you my dyno chart comparing stock carb, 28's, 33's and 35's.....

What he was saying is that your peak power will only be for 200rpms. So say you make your peak hp at 10,000rpms. He was saying that you probably only have peak hp from 9800-10000rpms. where if you have a broader powerband, then your peak hp will go from 7000-10000rpms...In your case, you want peak hp and torque between the rpms you shift in, so if you shift at 10000rpms and it drops to 9600rpms after a shift, then you'll want a motor to be at its peak between those rpms.....Where as other racers speed up and slow down, so they need peak torque at a broader power (5000-9000rpms) so they don't have to constantly shift to find the peak hp...Dragracers look for peak hp and torque, where xc racers will give up the most hp for a broader power curve...

BTW, I'm running a thumb throttle w/ stock cables. Make sure you adjust all the slack out of the thumb throttle as well.

The needle is never in the main jet. Its in the tube going down to the main. When you are at full throttle, there is very little needle remaining in the tube...the tube is about 3/16" diameter (guessing). You see it when you put the needle in it when putting the slides back in...The amount of space around the needle at wot is way larger than the largest main jet made.....

I would try the stock needles and try both the 4th clip and the 5th clip....I'd also try some larger pilots.....CPI pipes are known to have no bottom end. You must be running in the dunes...I find myself gearing alot lower when I hit the dunes due to the fast slow down when you let off. You might have a combo of both, jetting and gearing...

Mine are too, they claim, they are supposed to and that it doesn't affect it.....The PJ carbs are designed for better low throttle response, so they keep the velocity going through the carb for the better response....where as the PWK carbs are more efficient at wot.....I've tried both, but never had the chance to try both back to back for comparison. Others claim no real difference between the 34PJ and 35 PWK.......I adjusted my idle w/ my cables before I adjusted the idle knob, so my slides go as high as possible.....

Sounds to me that you have a really high rev pipe.. What kind? Porting? Have you tried the stock needles? Compression?

You'll be surprised how much low end a banshee does have when you put the right pipes on them......even stock pipes have no low end....

I agree, I couldn't get my 34's to run very well w/ the "C" needles. I went to a DEK and have a lot better low end w/ these. My shee likes the 58 pilots, needle in the 4th clip, and 175 mains.

Alright, first you have to get the idle adjusted. To do this, grab a flashlight and pull the air filter out. Look inside the intake so you can see the carb slides inside. You want to adjust the slides so they are "bottomed out" or barely touching. Adjust the idle screws out to lower the carb slides and vise versa (screw no 1). Do this to both sides so each side is exactly the same. Start your shee. If the idle is too low, then turn the screws back in 1/4 turn at a time and do both side equally....Once you get the idle down, then you can ride it around and get it warmed up. Once warm, then try different air screw settings (no 2). This will effect throttle response. You should be between 1/2 turn out and 2 1/2 turns out. Find the sweet spot....

Yea, we went trail riding from Dayton to Deer Pond and back. We didn't leave until 11:00, so we didn't get back to Dayton until 3:00.......We met up w/ Noah (Blue shee w/ elkas), he said others have seen you, but he didn't, he was down there for an hour or two before we got back.....weather is looking cold for this weekend!!!!

The 1200 degree powdercoat works great, but only comes black....you can use 400 temp, and get any color you want, but it melt off on the first 8 inches of the pipes. The rest will look nice though... When it started smoking, it was the whole header pipe!!! Luckily there was no motor damage...

I've tried just about every pipe out there. The pt mids do have the most bottom end power for the dual exhaust. The fmf gnarlies are also a great all around as well. Over all, the mids do have a smoother bottom end w/ a harder midrange and top end pull. Hands down for the mids, but there is a price to go w/ them...If you have the money and want the edge, then get the mids...as for the original question, I'd go for the 2 into1 for REALLY tight trails, they do maintain stock top end power....If you ride basic woods, all around, mx riding, then go for the mids, they deliver incredible smooth power and have great top end gains...

you lost me.

Midnite already answered your question. You need more fuel on the pilot circuit w/ pc pipes. Put some 30 pilots in there. You must have noticed that it starts hard now to....larger pilots!

Sounds like your jetting is off a little on the slow circuit.....try a larger pilot? What is your curring jetting?