Banchetta

If your still running the stock clutch, then I'd start there first. I swapped all my mods from my '95 chassis to a '00 chassis and motor. Everything but the clutch..the '00 only had about 15-20 hours on it, so the clutch was fairly new...It wouldn't hold any of the mods. I only had Pt mids, 165psi head mod, K&N, and +4 timing at the time...I never knew the clutch was slipping until I raced my buddy w/ a raptor and he's a shitty rider. Changed my clutch and toasted him....I would think your jetting should be very close, maybe 1-2 sizes rich, but it depends on your shee and area. Make sure you run w/o the lid or cut the last 1.5" off the end of the lid..when you dragrace, don't let off the throttle, hold it wide open and just feather the clutch to shift. Kinda tug on the handlebars and throw you weight back as you shift to get the weight to the rear tires like you were going to do a wheelie. You should be able to beat them w/ what you got...getting out the hole is the hardest part, especiallly the 450.

What a lot of you don't understand is that the factory welded a nut to the inside of the frame as they welded the frame together. So as you drill that nut out and go larger, your making the nut very shallow and thin...although it might work for awhile, but eventually the weld inside the frame will let go and the nut will be floating around inside the frame...might as well just grind the face of the frame off ( appox. 1 1/2" diameter). Grab a thick washer, weld a larger nut or same size nut to it, then weld the washer back onto the frame w/ the nut on the inside. It'll look like stock. Just remember, if you go w/ a larger nut, you'll have to drill the foot peg holes larger....I did both sides on my quad. Nothing sucks more than coming down from a jump and losing your foot under the rear tire. Takes me about 15 minutes to do mine....

I thought you were setting up on Halloween also??? Your holding back on us!!!! I don't care what weekend, just let me know. Halloween, presidents day, memorial day, labor day, 6 months from now, next month, Hell.....Next week!!!!

Thanks, so when do we expect you to show up on the next trip??? Its always great to meet the HQer's...

I'm just lurking in the dark!!! I've been busy as hell. Changed careers and working my ass off....I also just built a new house so thats been taking most of my time up...Keep up the posting everyone and if a trip is planned, make sure you let me know....Time will be taken off!!!

We all got there Monday eve. and rode all week. The weekend looked like New York City on the larger hills. We all packed the quads Sunday night and left Monday morning..

Start w/ 290-300 mains, needle 4th clip from the blunt end, stock pilots, adjust the timing plate at +4.....wait till you feel the power difference..

Toomeys and PC pipes are very much a high rev pipe, not even close to a midrange pipe. They start to come into the power around 6500rpms, far from midrange...If you want bottom end power,then get some PT mids, they have the most bottom end power from a twin pipe w/ almost no hard hitting powerband like the high revs..Why would you want high revs for wood riding anyways?? Pointless.

270 w/ the lid on, needle 4th clip from the blunt end, stock pilots..

Keep it exposed, if it was covered then the slide would want to stick open due to suction of air and vise versa...you want the air to be able to flow back and forth as you open and close the throttle...think of it as closing the door of your car..the door always closes easier w/ the window open..

I don't have a lot of experience w/ single carbs, but w/ dual carbs, larger carbs will hurt performance and are hard to jet since the efficientcy of the carb is way down due to less velocity (air speed through the carb), most people w/ your mods are running a 33mm carb for just a piped shee. and a 35mm carb for ported shees..A 39 is way too large.

Make sure you run it wot in 6th gear for 5-10 seconds, shut it down, coast to a stop, then check the plugs..normal riding will always show black, but a wot run will change quickly..

well said, knowledge comes with experience, helping others is what counts. Suggesting a 280 will not hurt anyone. At least its a rich start and work you way down..As long as the suggestion isn't lean, then damage won't occur...Although, I'd suggest a 250 main, stock pilot and adjust air screws to throttle response..

Call them, I get needles from them all the time and they just started showing them on the site, but I've been buying from them over a year..(needles) They can usually get a lot of stuff that they don't show.

If you need that big of a carb, then most likely your running a t-rex or cheetah cylinders which are higher intakes then stock so the larger carbs clear the clutch lever...larger carbs aren't always better unless you can flow some air. They benefit the strokers, but porting alone will vary on what size carb you'll need and are the last mod you should do to gain power..minimal gains for the price.

I would start w/ what you originally had and go from there. I would think you were rich before anyways..Definately stay w/ the pilots you have now or even try some 27.5's or stock 25's...Larger pilots are most often not needed..

270 mains, needle 4th clip from the blunt end, stock pilot, adjust air screws to throttle response. If you want a little more,then cut the last 1.5" off the end of the lid right behind the clips...that'll give you another 2-4hp..

Got that right. If I did it all over again. I'd get a Mikuni setup.

Its all those computer simulators that tell them their suggestions, not real world testing....

never heard of dynojets having a different jet...You only have mikunis or keihins.

LIke everyone else suggested. 300mains, and 30 pilots...run it too long like that and you'll be changing pistons and rings also.

Depends on whether you have 33pwk's or 34pj carbs. Both have different jetting. You need to know

Have you tried raising your needles?? Move the clip towards the pointy end. You may also want to try a 60 pilot.

I would check the carb bowls first before anything.