Banchetta

Could be jetting, but did you try disconnecting the tors? Disconnect the little black box above the left exhaust and disconnect the safety switch by the clutch handle. Follow the wire towards the gas tank to the connection and pull it apart..I'd start there first.

Make sure you didn't switch the carb bowls. ONly one bowl goes onto the choke carb. Also check to see if the choke tube is in place between the carbs.

Thats what they claim, but they have more bottom end then the fattys. The powerband is very smooth especially when properly jetted. Just like Bills pipes. The advertise them as a high rev pipe, but they're not. They pull harder in the midrange w/ decent top end..

I had mine set up for rough terrain and hill climbing. Even though they are set up for x-country, etc. they still haven't bottomed out w/ 8' jumps at slow speeds. The problems I've found w/ other setups using elkas is that they didn't feel any different then my old setup (works steelers fronts and stock rear). They are a nice looking shock for sure, but as you know, I'm not about the bling...hehe

Jim, do you supply the "E" needles? Not too many people stock them..I need a few sets.

Don't do it..I haven't been impressed by a set of Elkas yet...especially if your buying a fully adjustable shock. Thats a lot of money. I got my Ohlins for 1400.00 for all 3. Might as well get Axis or Ohlins....you were there when Rod and I was through the 3' whoops at the top of 6th gear at Glamis werent you?? I know you showed up later in the week...The only other person that stayed w/ us all week was Jon w/ the 370R w/ axis and that crazy bastard w/ the Bombadier650 w/ custom shocks....

I agree, I fought for a year w/ my jetting to find out the D needles run a hell of a lot better then the C's....Run the DEK needle for sure...I'm running 170 mains, 58 pilots, and DEJ needle in the 4th clip...I'm also running a stroker ported for midrange from a local builder..

I would go up a few sizes on the mains to start w/ and check your plugs after a wot run in 6th gear. You might even want to go up a size on the pilots. See how it starts after the porting. If it seems to start hard then go up a size.

Exactly what he said.

Put the stock carbs back on and you'll have more power. 28's won't do any justice for stock porting and will lose hp.

You shouldn't be too concerned w/ jetting until your broken in and opening up the throttle..You'll actually feel the bottom end getting stronger in the first 4 hours of break in. A new motor will feel bagless on the bottom at first and will get stronger w/ some riding time...break it in, then see.

For recreational riding. I wouldn't get Toomeys. They are a high rev pipe w/ less low end...I'd lean towards a midrange pipe like the Paul Turner mids, Fmf sst's, DMC, or Bills..These pull harder from the bottom and will come into the powerband smoother and not so drastic. Better choose for trails, hills, pits, etc..

I usually have great luck w/ 290 mains, 4clip from the blunt end on stock needles, stock pilots. Pulls hard as hard from the bottom all the way up w/ no bog. Never tried the dynojet needles though.

Depends on YOUR type of riding and what your doing w/ it. Do you plan on major mods later? Looking for low end grunt w/ a wide powerband for woods or just high rev screaming peak power for top end? There is no ONE good pipe for everyone.

Your dealer put a basic jetting kit in. Most kits recommend 240 mains for pipes. Like everyone else said. Start w/ a 270 and make sure you mods the air box lid or remove it...You'll gain another 4hp.

Magicracing.com

Your working backwards, your shee is telling you what you need...Its loading up on either the pilot or needle circuit, thats why its loading up until you hit 4th gear. Once you go from idle or mid-throttle to full throttle, then it'll take a few seconds to clean up and react. So if your rich to start and open it up, it'll take a little for the motor to clean out of the rich mixture in the lower end to the new mixture at wot....If your revving fine after you hold wot, then your mains are NOT rich. Light tan plugs indicate your lean on the mains after a wot test. I'd drop your needles 2 clip positions to start w/ and go from there. If FAST told you to run leaner needles, then I'd order some now. I'd also keep the 170 mains in. How does it start when its cold?? How many kicks? Will it idle when cold? Does it like the choke on?

I'm too lazy to read 34 pages. When and where?? I've been busy and missed the HQ!!

Stock pilots, 290 mains, raise your needle to the 4th clip from the blunt end...

There is a little black box above your left exhaust pipe w/ a 3-wire plug on it. Disconnect it, that'll eliminate the tors brain. then disconnect the safety switch on the handlebars by the clutch by following it towards the gas tank, find the connection and disconnect it...I'd start there first.

Your testing tells you nothing, you have to run the shee at wot in 6th gear for a good 5-10 seconds, pull the clutch in and coast to a stop...riding around and letting off and on the throttle will give you false readings...

Fix the leaks first, they'll affect quite a bit..also make sure the equalizer tube is still in place between the two carbs. (1/4" x 2" LONG)

Jetting should be very close, I normally have good luck w/ 290 mains, needle 4th clip from the top, stock pilots, stock needles..never tried the vito needles, but I'd try the stockers and go from there..I agree w/ the B8ES...b9's are a colder plug.

A lot of times you can get a lot of dead spots out w/ jetting, but you will have some sort of dead spot w/ just your mods and pipes...the more of a high rev pipe you get, the more of a dead spot you'll get...Midrange pipes eliminate that dead spot.

Try raising your needles by lowering the clip on the needle. Fatties like the richer needle position. You have to pull the slides out of the carbs, then pull the spring back out of the slide, you'll see the gold clip inside, shake it out, disconnect the cable and you'll see 2 screws inside the slide, take them out and the needles will come out...also go back to B8ES plugs.