Banchetta

Plug chops can vary if your needle is too rich. Run a set of plugs for a while until you get some color on them, run it wot in 6th gear for 5-10 seconds, kill it, coast to a stop, pull the plugs, take a pic of the ground strap. Especially where it curls up over the electrode.

The Ptr's will hold back peak power and higher rpms, but they will make that motor more tamed and smoother power. If your trying to ride this thing, then keep the ptr's, if you just put around to drag others, then get some other pipes..CPI, shearers, etc. As for jetting, I find the 34PJ like more fuel then the PWK's....55-58 pilot, 172 mains, DEK needle on the 3rd clip should get you close. Adjust your air screw for best throttle response...If it likes to be at 3.5 turns out, then the pilot is too rich...A rich pilot will make your shee start great when cold, but hard when warmed up....Did you disconnect the tors?

240-250 mains. You have to run it wot in 6th gear for 5-10 seconds, kill it, coast to a stop, then check the plugs. Normal riding should show a black plug.

If it starts right up, then leave the 25 pilot, try the needle in the 3rd clip, ride it, then try the 4th clip and ride it. Determine which one is better, I'd start off w/ a 300 mains and go from there. Run it wot in 6th gear for 5-10 seconds, pull the clutch in, kill it, coast to a stop, check the plugs.

The more of a load on the motor will require more fuel, so if you do a plug chop in 4th gear, you might find yourself lean in 6th gear.

Not bad, the fmf ssts are more of an all around for the stock motor. The fatty's are more of a mid/high and better suited for built motors.... A good comparison. fmf sst=T6 fmf fatty=T5

You do mostly trail riding, get the gnarly's....You won't lose enough performance in a drag to talk about. The gnarly's will actually pull harder off the line then the fattys, but the fatty's will pull harder in 5th and 6th gear....You'd have to race more than 1000' for the fatty to outperform....all the drags we do are usually 300, 500 or 1000'...I've always won with my ptr mids....they are a midrange pipe. High rev doesn't mean high horsepower. It just moves the peak power to a higher rpm. Your lower rpms range is where you'll be mostlly at when your trail riding and your shee will be night and day for power delivery. You won't regret it, you'll just have to trust me and maybe some others on here that have them. As for your gearing, go w/ a 15/41 or 15/40 gearing w/ 20" or 21" tires...gearing up will INCREASE performance...the shee is geared close so gearing down will only hurt you. Trails and dragging.

I ran my stock carbs w/ stock pilot, 380 mains, needle 5th clip. Never kept them on long enough to try larger pilots, but the bottom end was very nice w/ the stock pilots. stock carbs 380, 25 pilots, 5th clip 28's PWK 162, 42 pilot, 3rd clip If I were you......172 mains, 50 pilot, 3rd clip and go from there...

Just make sure your plugs are chocalate and not tan....the tan color can vary within 5 jet sizes, the chocalate color will vary within 1 jet size. Also make sure you do a plug test after a wot run in 6th gear for 5-10 seconds, pull the clutch, kill the motor, coast to a stop, pull the plug.....

Gearing up higher would put more load on the motor therefore creating a leaner condition. Not much, maybe one size. You could've been lean to start and that might push it over the edge....A hole in the middle of a piston is usually from detonation. Too high of compression w/o race fuel, but you were running race fuel, which would make me look into head design...you shaved .030 off the stock head. I've always seen bad things w/ this, although a lot of people on this board have 0 problems..a Noss head would be a good idea... if your running lean, then more piston melting would have been towards the exhaust side. Make sure you check the water impeller while you have it apart and check the jets in the carbs to make sure nothing was plugged, mainly the right side.

hahaha, dealerships, lol, you don't have to adjust anything but your jetting....The tors is shit, disconnect the little black box above the left exhaust w/ a 3 wire plug, disconnect the clutch switch by following the wire towards the gas tank to the next connection, disconnect the wires on the carbs (if you want). You can put electrical tape over the connections to keep debri out. Your tors will be disconnected and problem free....no need of buying the kits.

How often do you foul a plug?? Once a year isn't bad at all, you should change them anyways...my plugs always look black and shitty after normal riding, but after a wot run, they clean right up...If your fouling plugs all the time, then go back to a stock needle and try different clip positions, the shee will either like it or hate it..find the sweet spot and shee won't foul plugs...DO NOT change the oi mixture. Your mains are lean if anything. Also make sure you warm the shee up before running hard, you can actually foul a plug by revving a motor cold.

Good call, I ran my shee on a dyno w/ the large filter and w/o the filter so it would be easier to try different setups and jetting w/o have to pull the filter every time....surprised there was no difference on the dyno w/ or w/o the large filter.....but to answer your question, I honestly cant w/o a dyno or seeing if your jetting changes w/ or w/o the filter...can you run it w/ the large filter? Try both and see if your plugs change....then you'll know if the twins are holding you back...

Sorry, every shee I've jetted for ported shee had stock carbs and every larger carb setup was on a stroker shee w/ a 4 mil.....I know a ported 4 mil likes a 162 main, 42 pilot and DEK or EEK needle (try both) needle on the 3rd clip...

Damn, a plugged pilot stopped it from revving out........like I said before, 20 years and still learning....Never had that one. Very surprised it would start and idle though..I told you going lower than a 250 was crazy....lol Let us know what size you come up w/..

Your shee is being held back more than you think w/ the lid....Your jetting will change one size for every 15 degrees of air temp....at least now you know that more fuel will make it pull harder. Leaner is NOT meaner....come summer time you'll be able to still run higher mains w/ a modified lid and have a lot more hp....Its a BANSHEE, let her go!!!!

This is rough since my shee is a stroker, but everything else is the same as you and my shee liked a 162 mains, needle 3rd clip, DEK or EEK needle, (try both) 42 pilot. The mains MIGHT be rich, but better to start rich and work down..

You should be able to turn those tires easily,,,,jetting and compression. Do both as suggested.

It should be the other way around...Disconnecting the tors would allow the shee to rev up...the tors acts like a governor....are you sure your disconnecting the correct plugs??? If you disconnect one and not the other, it'll do that...Clutch switch, black box above the left exhaust, also disconnect the two wires coming off the carbs...where do you live? Can you take pics of the plugs your disconnecting....

make sure you run it wot in 6th gear for 5-10 seconds, pull the clutch in, kill the motor, coast to a stop, pull the plugs, tan is lean , chocalate is perfect, black is rich... I'd richen it up before you do this test. If you are lean, you DO NOT want to run it wot for long periods...start rich and work down...checking your plugs after a normal ride will tell you nothing...a rich pilot or needle will throw the plugs off. Running it wot will alter the color dramatically. Throw in some 170's and do a plug check as well as a throttle check.

I doubt there would be any restriction. Those 2 filters will flow just as much air as 1 large filter...

Hahahahaha, I almost pissed my pants on that one,, hahahahahha. Shit, I come home after a rough day, turn the computer on, see the new post on this thread and just start reading....hahaha, nothing like a highlight of the day!!!! Banshee$$, Just think if you had the tors kit idle screws AND left the stock idle knobs, then you would have 4 adjustments....THATS RIGHT, I would be the BANSHEE KING!!!!!!

Adjust your air screw for throttle response.

I synchronized my old setup using the little throttle adjusters on top of the carbs, then I adjusted the idle using the main cable adjuster at the handlebars....If you can vision that, then you don't need the side screws. :thumbsup:

Be careful using amsoil. I used that for a while, If I let the shee sit a few weeks, the oil separates from the gas and starts really hard...I went back to Castrol...Just a pointer. You HAVE to disconnect the tors (little black box above the left exhaust w/ a 3-wire plug) you telling me that your clutch switch makes a difference is telling me that the main brain is still connected. Disconnect both, the main brain(tors) AND the clutch switch...TRUST ME.