locogato11283

yea that should be right. you may just have to run the cable a little differently. if youre not sure get a +4 cable. i know a stock length braided cable will work on a roundhouse +4 or even a +6. reason being is that on a roundhouse swingarm the brake plate sits more on top of the carrier as opposed to out back like stock is set up..

haha its not glued. you just need to break the bead like on a convnetional wheel. id recommend taking it somewhere. trying to pry it with a screw driver or pry bay is gonna end up with you fuckin the wheel and tire up.

everyone always wants more power.. thats why we mod our banshees. same with cr500's.

i recommend redline racing and FAST...

id replace the impellar. if you need clutch parts call FAST. jeff will hook you up with everything you need. 785 364 5325

klotz in the premix and belray 10w40 in the tranny.

stock should be 14/41. i think some older bikes were 14/40.

if youre selling the bike just leave it stock. youre not gonna get anymore money out of it by having it ported and stroked. youre wasting your time and money if you really plan to make a bunch of extra money out of this.

i had a 4mm cr500 stroker motor built by k and t a few years ago. i had it in a banshee frame. it was pretty quick. in a bike it would be faster than fuck. what are you planning on doing with it? that motor makes a ton of power stock, let alone being a 4mm..

for the money it would cost you to resleave you could prolly find some used stock cylinders 20 or 30 over..

you should be beating that 450 with no problems. gear up one in front and then see what happens. if hes spanking you that bad maybe its not your gearing. maybe you arent a good rider. id think even with 13/40 gearing youd still be able to pull on him.

heres a good idea.. find a bridge. preferably one over concrete, but water will do. make sure its fairly tall.. then jump!!!!!!! ::

they cant be that great.. i dont know anyone who runs them. go with whats proven.

what kind of surface are you racing on? pro wedges will expand the faster you go. they will also grab harder. since youre going to a bigger tire size and a better gripping tire youll need to drop your gearing down some. with those 22" tires youll need to run a 14/42 or 14/43 to get back to where you were before. you can try a 14/41 and see if you can get out of the hole ok. if not, youll have to go a little lower..

keihin 33 or 35mm pwk.. either one should compliment your setup nicely and give you more overall power. call FAST and jeff can set you up with carbs and intakes. 785 364 5325

try FAST. 1 785 364 5325... if jeff doesnt have them try www.sudco.com or www.carbpartswarehouse.com.

mine looks like that.. fuck it. it shows i ride my bike!!

id sell it and buy a 4mm cast cub..

i run 160 mains and 45 pilots at 1000 feet. so im assuming since youre at a higher elevation youll need less fuel. i think you should start at around 155 main and 42 pilot.

haha right. you might "ride" with cheetahs.. big deal. i can take out a stock 400ex and "ride" with some cheetahs.. but that doesnt mean im actually running with them.. 18's are for fuckin motocross bikes. banshees, with very few exceptions, are NOT motocross bikes. they are for duning, fast paced trail riding, and dragging.. and to be quite honest, i dont see any of those people using 18" tires. which bring me to my next point. why buy 18" tires just to have to compensate with huge gearing changes? that makes no sense. keep close to stock gearing and just use 20" tires. running 15/41 with 20" tires is damn near the same as running 17/41 with 18" tires except with 18" tires you lose ground clearance.. you obviously have no concept of gearing and tire relationships or youd know that your particular gearing and tire has NOTHING to do with you "riding" with cheetahs. i can run 25" tires and 13/44 gearing and be at the same gearing ratio as you. so, yamahapowr.. just buy 20" tires and use what about 99.5% of the people on this forum do.

what are you trying to accomplish exactly? lengthening the front will make it harder to get the front end up. also by going longer in the front you can run a shorter swingarm without the front coming up so easily. by running a shorter swingarm and getting more of your body weight over the rear tires you will launch harder... so, i guess you need to decide what youre really trying to do here..

i would stick with stockers over going to 28mm.. theres really no point in that. but in his particular situation of doing the trail port, hes not gonna need any more bottom end. he'd be better off with the bigger carbs, gaining some of his top end back. the bike will be strong all around. my brother had a very similar setup and it was a monster off the line and ran hard on top... cutting a few loops off the springs makes the carbs a lot easier to work with. the thumb doesnt get nearly as tired. again, i dont see him needing anymore bottom end power. hes gonna need more back on top.

well the 33's are a good carb. they arent too big but will increase performance on the top end. they will work nicely with your trail port. my brother had a similar setup. plus, if you ever decide to go to a 4mm motor youll already have a carb big enough for that. these carbs are also very easy to jet. a lot of people here use them and can help get you tuned in properly. i really recommend them. youll have to get some new intakes to run them. thats why i said call FAST. jeff will have everything you need in one phone call.. single carb setups will never make the power dual carbs can. honestly, i see no point in running single setups on a twin cylinder motor. his bike is going to have tons of low end after his porting is done. he would benefit more from a carb setup that will bring back some of his top end..

you better get pictures homo..

fuckin up. i need a fuckin a arm.