locogato11283

either one will be reliable for you. the cheetah cylinders put out a lot of power without sacrificing reliability. youll be happy with either.

id say bigger dual carb setup and vf2 or vf3. unless you decide its time to tear down and have a little more porting done..

its gonna take a motor, time, money, fabrication skills, patience...and a lot more. wouldnt it be easier to build a 240 blaster motor??

the spots for the shift forks are right there, you cant miss them. it doesnt matter what gear or whatever you thought or think its in. just put the forks in their respective spots and youll be fine.

i think youll be fine getting them. sounds like a good deal. im sure they will work fine for what youre gonna do with them.

haha no i didnt buy it.. looks like something that would seriously tear a motor up.. not something im looking to do.

the tank to loop measurement isnt going to be that accurate. you need the measurement from the loop to the cross brace where the seat slips under. or some other point on the frame..

damn, i just ordered 2 sets. you guys think it wont work?? :biggrin:

it can be done but you really should have a builder set it up right. a better alternative would be to buy the 10mm cast cub cylinders. thats what im running. i think you should consider it.

cut kenda knarly... the only way to fly. i run them on all types of dirt surfaces. they hook better than anything.

i too would upgrade, but if you dont want to then check out rockymountainatv.com... or call FAST 785 364 5325

what you need to do is bend the steering loop back and gusset it. ive used a hydraulic jack before to bend them back. once you think youre close fit your tank and plastic back on it to make sure its aligned properly. once you get it where you want it you need to figure out where it bent from. if it was just the upper half, which im assuming it was, youll need to gusset on the front of the steering loop. a small piece of either 1/8" or 3/16" steel will work fine. if you bend it from the bottom half, youll have to reweld or maybe even gusset those triangular looking braces.. see what im saying?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ATV-Quad-Sn...133760356QQrdZ1

you can weld it no problem.. by the way, are you from florida? if so where at?

whAt do you mean by heavy trails? i run knarlys in all conditions. trails, roads, rocks, water..they hold up great in all conditions. if you are worried about tree roots and rocks dont be. they are a strong tire.

id say 4mm dune port would suit your style. 33mm carbs, advance timing, good pipes..etc.

ive never paid more than 175 for sandblasting and PC... thats just for the frame. other small parts will cost extra.

because i think there are better tires out there than what youre wanting to buy.. im wondering if any of these guys who are pushing the razrs so much have ever run knarlys, stock 450 tires or anything else for that matter. ive run those razrs and i was not impressed at all..

swingarm length? tires? your weight? these will all play a huge factor in how your bike leaves in 2nd.. once i know those i can give you some advice.

i think youre making a mistake..

youre gayyyyyy!!!!!

i believe tethers are normally open.. once the cord is pulled it breaks the circuit.

yea ill also add that stock swingarms are junk. plain and simple. they are super heavy and those tabs that hold the carrier will bend with not much pressure. a hard hit on one tire will cause it easily..id recommend a roundhouse carrier swingarm..they are much more durable, lighter weight and a ton easier to adjust.

your ram??

for a temporary fix you can bend it back, but itll just bend again that much easier. post up something in the wanted section stating you need one. chances are someone on the site has one. also you might try PMing NYUK.. hes always parting out something.