locogato11283

with that higher compression you are losing some revs on top. id say drop down to about 170 lbs and youll notice a pretty big difference in revs. i run all my bikes at about 170 or 175. 180+ are stump pulling bikes that will pull huge gearing off the bottom but will suffer on top due to increased compression. what size domes are you running right now? whats your setup?

heres one.. dont bother. a bigger bore wont necessarily increase power. why not just go with some good porting? if your cylinder needs freshened up just bore to the next size and be done with it.. what exactly are you trying to accomplish?

prolly RMATV.. but why do you want those tires? they are heavy, overpriced and wear like shit...

yea kinda sounds electrical. make sure your coil is grounded well. there are 2 tabs that hold it on. i take the paint off mine so that the coil grounds well. ive had this issue before. cleaned it up and bike cleaned out. spark plugs are cheap. throw some new ones in.

160 main for sure but i think 50 pilot will be too much. i say start with 45.

the deciding factor will be what type of riding you do more.. drags or general riding??

whats your jetting and all your mods? we need to know everything before we can even start to help.

stock swingarm?? if so there is a correct process to adjusting the chain tightness and making sure you get everything tightened back down properly. heres what you do, starting from everything being loose to adjust your chain.. 1. tighten or loose the adjusters to desired chain tightness..then use the lock nut to keep them where you want them. 2. tighten the bottom carrier bolt down. 3. then tighten the upper carrier bolt. 4. then recheck your adjusters to make sure they didnt come loose during the other steps. if they are coming loose when you ride then something else is wrong. your chain is going to want to naturally pull the carrier towards the front which will keep pressure on those adjusters..

it really can only be your sprockets worn or chain stretched.. the axle/hub splines could happen but its not gonna last long. those splines are small and i would think once they start skipping, youre gonna be buying new axle/hub in no time. id recheck your tightness of the chain.. the problem almost has to be there or worn sprockets.

shouldnt be hard to do.. it would prolly work like a tether kill switch. ground one wire and hook the other to the orange terminal on the coil. i dont even have an on/off switch or a button kill switch. i just run a pro design tether kill switch. thats the only way to shut my bike off..

ive tried more dirt tires than anyone on this site and im telling you for the price kenda knarlys and stock yfz450 tires last the longest in the widest variety of terrains. they also hook better and are lighter weight than most others. i would go with the 20" knarlys.. not the XC ones. from RMATV they run 45 bucks a piece. the knarly fronts are excellent tires. i have them on all three of my bikes. if you cant find the knarlys try to find the stock 450 tires.,.

up

call FAST.. jeff can get you what you need at good prices. 1 785 364 5325

straight paddle tires arent all that great for general riding. v paddles allow you to turn a hell of a lot easier. so if you do mainly general riding instead of dragging id go with itp sand stars or something like that. if youre gonna drag more, or arent worried that your bike will be harder to turn id prolly go up to a 9 paddle hauler. id say you really need at least a +4 swingarm too. theyll help keep the front down and handling isnt compromised much..

my brother had your exact setup. he ran keihin 33mm pwk and it hauled ass. that bike had some serious bottom end power that would pull tall gearing off the line..

if im not mistaken, dont you need case mods to run the supercubs because of the oversize bore? not tryin to steer you away just letting you know..

bent the fuck out of my lower left a arm. its silver. i dont need brand new. just one thats not bent or too shitty looking. lemme know whats up...

cameron does excellent work and is a good stand up guy. him and FAST are the only people i do business with. if jeff has a wait too long for you, then id go to redline..

call FAST

im with you, i never cared much for stock carbs either. i thought they were a pain. i would go with some keihin 30mm pwk. they will work well with your stock motor and will be good with some porting as well. youll need to buy some upp or other intake boots to go with them.. i would recommend calling jeff at FAST. he will set you up with everything you need at good prices.. give him a call. 1-785-364-5325

i dont think it really matters but i always run them with the numbers facing the left side of the bike.. so when youre looking at the front you can see the tooth number on it.. same way for the rear.. i run PD sprockets. they are good stuff. never had an issue with one.

i dont think it really matters but i always run them with the numbers facing the left side of the bike.. so when youre looking at the front you can see the tooth number on it.. same way for the rear..

haha gaaaaayyyyyy

while i think engine swaps are cool, i still am sitting here wondering a few things.. first, why a banshee frame? i mean if youre gonna stuff it in something why not a yfz450 or something that handles much better? i mean i did a 600rr in a craptor. the fit was pretty nice and i didnt have to cut anything in half.. second, why trick racing? ive heard some pretty questionable shit about that place. including things like they are a joke and dont have a clue about what theyre doing.. ive read that and heard that on one more occasion. i have no personal experience with them so i dont know for sure.. last, since it was cut completely in half, i hope they built a good strong jig before they cut it to make sure nothing shifted during the build. if not you may be in for a wild ride.. anyway, im not knocking your bike. i think it looks pretty crazy with those tires and motor combo.. id like to ride it..after its tested and proven by you of course. :biggrin:

it doesnt have to be primed. at idle you may not see any movement. if memory serves me correctly last time i had my bike running and cap off i couldnt really see it moving. maybe just swirling a little..