Olds Eddie

If you do away with the key switch, be sure to ground the switch wire or it won't start.

Fixed at last! I re-wired the shee with the factory manual as a guide so when I took it back apart to re-check I used the diagram for the simplified harness in the back of the 'Wiring FAQ' on BansheeHq. I had thought that the key switch wire was like the kill switch circuit so I had left the red/black loose from the ground. This site is awesome!

Thats what started it all. I cleaned up the wiring harness to remove the tors wiring. It was running fine before I did that so the firest thing I did was take the harness back apart to re-check the wiring. I guess I'll do it again as I have done everything but replace the CDI box, pulse coil, stator and flywheel.

I have compression, fuel and spark. The spark is small but white. It dosen't seem to occur every kick but it does spark. I have replaced the coil and plug caps as well as plugs. I have verified the pulse coil gap as well as checking the resistance of both the source coil and the pulse coil per the ignition FAQ. It just dosen't seem to be firing all the time- only occasionally. What do some of you Guru's think I am missing?

Thanks for the advice. Found the needles for $8 each!

I need to replace both needle and seat valves on a Shee with stock carbs. I went to the local Yahama 'Stealer' and the parts guy quoted me $38 and he would have to order them. Surely somebody has them cheaper. I really only need the needles if there is a source for them by themselves.

If I interpret the parts correctly you plug up the spark plug holes, exhaust, and carb spigot on one side while putting compressed air to the other carp spigot with leakdown guage adaptor. Did you make your own spigot adaptor and plug?

Ring gap is within spec. (.30-.45mm) I filed and chamfered them myself. Head gasket has been re-done 3 times since I started this investigation. What else can it be. It ran great before I did some wiring and wouldn't restart afterwards. That's when I checked the compression. It had been leaking unfiltered air around the filter which took out the fresh rings. I honed and re-ringed her and still low compression. I'm stumped!

Thanks for the reply. I am using a Snap-On comp tester with valve at the guage. I used it on my sbc 400 in my fishin' boat to see if it was accurate and it seemed to be. I have done everything I can think of but replace the reeds. One of them has a burned spot on it that can be seen through the carb spigot, so that is why I suspect it is reeds.Will reeds make the compression that low? (57-65psi)

I have checked everything I know to ckeck and after totally redoing my top end with Wiseco Pro Light pistons I still have low compression (60-67). I checked it with a known good compression checker and no carbs installed. I have the right pistons installed correctly and re-honed the cylinders. Engine has not been started yet since I fitted new rings and reassembled it. Will reeds cause low compression? Any other ideas?

Does the 40deg neck help clear the pipes or do I want them straight? I have a good friend in the MC business and they give me deals so I will have to order from them. Also are the K&N filterwraps any better than outerwares. They are double the price.

I am going to be upgrading to K&N podsa and wanted to know which ones fit the best. I am running stock carbs which have 43mm air horns. Any suggestions?

I pulled her back apart and they are marked 513's. The pistons come within about a 32nd of an inch of reaching the top of the bores. Could Wiseco have marked them wrong?

I had the same symptoms when I first got my Shee. I threw a barnet clutch in it and still had slippage. It took new rear tires with aggressive tread to cure.