boonman

Holyman can give ya the skinny on the bearings. I don't have the number list with me today. it's at home... but I know he can give the the right stuff. PM him or Email....

Once you disconnect the black box under the tank, that disables the system without you having to mess with any of the other switches. On the problem that you are having, did you put the carb slides back into the correct carb? The cutout should be facing the air cleaner. it is possible to reverse the slides if you happen to put the left slide in the right carb.

WHat kind of plugs were they? And improper heat range or detonation could cause that...

You can't be serious? J/K The 450's are a sweet machine!! But, This is what disturbs me the most!!!!!!!! Blasphemy!!!!! We got our eyes on you boy!!!!

That's it. I'm closing this thread.

I have 2 stock carbs. make me an offer i can't refuse and I'll send 'em your way!!! Thay don't have the slides, or the tops. But the bodys and everything else is good!!! Sorry to hear about your misfortune(s), but I can maybe help ya out...

I haven't the slightest. Maybe it is to keep would be hoodlums like yourself in check!! Just messin' man, I really have no idea, I guess that's just the way Lee wanted it?

Did I hear 4mm?????? NICE!!!!!

Look into the truck world. I have seen monster braided lines for cheap. I believe a company called Aeroquip makes the lines, any length desired. Actually, the company is right down the street from me, I should stop in..

Impact screwdriver is the thing to have!!!!!!!!!! I love mine., Sits in the top drawer !!!!

It would work, but the seat would be harder than !@#$%^&*. I wouldn't suggest doing that.

You will not have a problem with leaving the brain unplugged. The TORS system will be completely disabled. If you would like, you can get a TORS removal kit, which consists of new carb ttops, a cable, and usually an idle kit. It is well worth the money. Jetting is easier, and access to the carbs is easier...

I believe this is holyman's bike, I don't remember anymore. Whosever it is, I hosted these pics, so here you go!! And here is my setup, I don't have a removeable cap like that, I just cut a hole, and put a rubber grommet in there... I have my bottle zip tied to the brace in the front of the frame. Holyman's (Or whosever that one is) has an aluminum andle bracket that he made himself....

The way the TORS operates when the slides stick is that if the slide(s) stick, and the throttle lever is returned to idle, (ie. you letting off) it will cut the ignition, because you obviously don't want any fuel being drawn into the motor, and it is stuck open. But, if you are trying to accelerate, and it spits and sputters, it is most likely not the TORS. Unless the parking brake is on, but if that was the case, you wouldn't be going anywhere.....

I will have to see one up close..... preliminary tells me I don't like it though. My bud is allegedly going to buy one for the upcoming season, so I will be able to go out and thrash one and see what it is all about...

It sounds like a loose connection, perhaps at the coil or other place. Maybe water in the stator cover? Bad gas, or water int he gas could be another thing to look for....

We have tested these in the sleds. it is a good theory, but it didn't show us any gains on the clock.....

http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=17406

The axle dimensions should be the same. The only change from 87/88-89+ was the clamping of the carrier style. It changed a little....

I have seen BD's and they are superb!!!!! The pic that sticks in my mind was a beutifully polished piece. Man, I would be modding the stator cover with that puppy in there!!! Mine however, are not so pretty, i will clean up the wheel the best I can, but it won't come out looking as pretty. I also don't remove as much weight as BD can. I don't mess around with the slots. I don't have the time..... PM me for pricing info, I'll hook ya up.... Same day service, and like BD, I haven't heard one complaint. And everyone that rides my bike, is damn impressed with the throttle response that only a lightened flywheel can give....

I completely stripped my bike to the frame, and replaced EVERYTHING on it. that includes the bolts that you are talking about for the a-arms and all. Swingarm sleeve and bolt, all kinds of stuff. Cost me a little over $500 at the dealer. And that was for everything. i don't know where your going, but your getting taken for a ride.... Holyman can hook you up with a-arm bearings, and the dealer can get you the bolts. I just went and figured this all out. You are correct on the $300 tag. But, there are ways around a few things. Here is the break down for the stock components: Qty Part Number Description Price Total 1: 90381-15088-00 BUSH,SOLID $9.38 $37.52 lower, front 2: 90381-15088-00 BUSH,SOLID $9.38 $37.52 lower, rear 3: 90381-15088-00 BUSH,SOLID $9.38 $37.52 upper 4: 90387-101R3-00 COLLAR $6.04 $12.08 lower, front 5: 90387-101R3-00 COLLAR $6.04 $12.08 lower, rear 6: 90387-100Y6-00 COLLAR $15.82 $31.64 upper 7: 1UY-23517-00-00 COVER, THRUST 1 $5.12 $20.48 lower, front 8: 1UY-23517-00-00 COVER, THRUST 1 $5.12 $20.48 lower, rear 9: 1UY-23517-00-00 COVER, THRUST 1 $5.12 $20.48 upper 10: 90101-10655-00 N/A $0.00 $0.00 lower, rear, bolt, dealer stock 11: 90101-10655-00 N/A $0.00 $0.00 lower, front, dealer stock 12: 90105-10651-00 BOLT,WASHER BASED $6.80 $13.60 upper 13: 90201-10430-00 WASHER,PLATE $2.29 $4.58 lower, front 14: 90201-10430-00 WASHER,PLATE $2.29 $4.58 lower, rear 15: 90201-10430-00 WASHER,PLATE $2.29 $4.58 upper 16: 90185-10120-00 NUT,SELF-LOCKING $3.99 $7.98 lower, front 17: 90185-10120-00 NUT,SELF-LOCKING $3.99 $7.98 lower, rear 18: 90185-10120-00 NUT,SELF-LOCKING $3.99 $7.98 upper SubTotal $281.08 Type of shipping: Standard Shipping $22.50 Total $303.58 Here is another beakdown, everything consolidated: 90381-15088-00 BUSH,SOLID $9.38 $112.56 90387-101R3-00 COLLAR $6.04 $24.16 90387-100Y6-00 COLLAR $15.82 $31.64 1UY-23517-00-00 COVER, THRUST 1 $5.12 $61.44 90101-10655-00 N/A $0.00 $0.00 90105-10651-00 BOLT,WASHER BASED $6.80 $13.60 90201-10430-00 WASHER,PLATE $2.29 $13.74 90185-10120-00 NUT,SELF-LOCKING $3.99 $23.94 SubTotal $281.08 Type of shipping: Standard Shipping $22.50 Total $303.58 Now, you can omit the first item, #90381-15088-00, because these can be had from ebay, in a far superior product to stock, for like $40. Or, Holyman has the bearings. You may not need the collars either. I needed only the uppers on mine. Which are the 90387-100y6-00. The lowers were not a problem. SO, you are at a cheaper rate than initially expected. ANd the bolts are unacailable elsewhere. you have to run the stock spec bolts for the upper. You may be able to get away with the lower bolts, but I believe they are shoulder style bolts, and they aren't very expensive anyways. If your covers are shot, and you put them back on, they will just let debris right in, and toast everything again and again. So, the $60 is well worth it there. it is expensive, but needed..... Sloppy front ends are just no fun... Also, you can knock off the shipping charge on here, because you can order thenm from the local stealer. And they should be a little cheaper. this is the list price, and I know my dealer beats it every time, sometimes by alot..... It is up to you...

Another vote here for the Tors being the culprit. It is doing it's job, but it is causing you a headache. I would bet that the parking brake is either locked on or is hanging up....

I got my kit from www.moto-man.com I got the motion pro kit, and it came with the free idle kit. If you are getting a kit and it doesn't come with the free idle kit, you are getting screwed. I don't think it matters who the company is. it is probably the same outfit that makes all of them, and just sells them to different "distributors".

I have an X-ring on my bike. it is called specifically an ATV X-ring chain. the difference is this. If you look at a cross section of an o ring, you will see that there is only two contact points to seal with. On an x ring, think of the "X" ring sealing ring, and it is supposed to have 4 contact points. each tip of the "X" contacts either the side plate, or the inner link to supposedly form a better seal. I love my X-ring chain, and I feel it is right up there with a sidewinder. I would probably buy another one, but I am going to go over to the drag racing scene, so i will be running a non ringed chain. I may even experiment with belts..... But, I got my chain for $65. Which is not much more, if not cheaper than an o ring unit. I would get the x-ring. If anything, it is just as good as a regular o ring chain..

It does somewhat matter the size, but more so the location. The skirt, if it breaks, will go into the lower end, where it will be pulverized and most often sucked into the bearings and wreak havoc. It is slightly cheaper to have your crank rebuilt, but most likely easier to get a new one if yours is suspect of being no good. Welding the crank pins, will gain you no performance. However, it will gain you a piece of mind that the crank will not seperate. I have seen, and heard of this numerous times. it is a known thing to happen to banshees. it can throw the crank out of phase, and then detonate the top end. you can go to www.tonydoukasracing.com to check him out. I like his reeds on stock cages. And he is a good builder who is experienced with banshees. You can inspect the crank yourself, and see if anything looks chewed up. any play up and down on a rod is bad. And excessive play side to side is bad as well. EDIT: It would be cheaper for you to just buy a new crank if yours is bad. I just checked current pricing, and he is at $400 for a rebuilt crank. you can get a new one off of ebay for $350 all day long...