boonman

Did you by chance mix the carb bowls up? There is a left and right. There is a brass tube which is supposed to be in the bowl which goes on the left (choke knob equipped) carb. If they are backwards, when you pull the choke out, nothing happens because it uses aforementioned brass tube to pick up fuel from the bowl. If its not that, make sure you have spark, make absolutely sure the pilots are clean. It takes a small flathead screwdriver to remove them. Compressed air is also good to use on them once they're out. What is the compression? Usually a problem like this is from neglect. Old fuel and dirt...

Put a grease fitting in the swingarm pivot. Parts can be had by any online retailer, ronnies is one that I remember. Or, check out some of the site sponsors.... while its apart, get a stainless bolt kit, clean the wiring harness up, move the coolant bottle to the front, and replace anything that's worn. Likely every bushing and/or bearing in the machine

I like a lightened flywheel. With a power stroke every 180 degrees, mass isn't needed as much...

K&N filters are good for Grandmas grocery getter, and even then, that's pushing. Run Foam filters, and nothing else.

.020" on the safe side, and if you run fresh 93 octane, you can likely get .030" taken off. Depending on elevation.

Freak, please understand that you are talking about two seperate things here. Running lean, (air:fuel ratio) and detonation. You list running lean as a cause of detonation, and it simply is not. While it can aggravate a detonating engine, it will not cause detonation. Alrthough, and obscure happening while running lean, it will heat the bike up, and perhaps increase slightly the chance of detonation, but the piston will likely melt and smear the exhaust port long before the signs of detonation show up. Now, causes of detonation are what you have written, too much advance, too much compression, both of which are related to not having enough octane to combat these things. They aren't necessarily bad on their own, but with not running the proper fuel, it will cause problems. Now, one other thing that will cause detonation, and not have anything related to octane would be an improper squish. Something that must be checked at engine assembly. Now, running lean will aggravate an already detonating engine, but like said, most likely will not cause detonation on it's own. If you blow a hole in the center of the piston, detonation, melt the exhaust side of the piston, and smear the cylinder wall with aluminum, lean condition. But, at any rate, if the plugs are backing out, you have other issues.

You're still missing the boat here, and not answering the questions so that help may be provided to you. The clutch is designed so that you can stay in gear when you pull the clutch in. I don't think you quite know how to word the problem that you are having, but I think I know what is happening. First of all, clutch engagement/disengagement is like this: Engagement- The clutch lever is out, and if it is in gear and the engine is running, the bike should be moving Disengagement- The clutch lever is pulled in, and with the motor rujning, the bike shouldn't move, unless there are issues I believe you are having problems with the disengagement end of things, in that when you pull the clutch in, the clutch doesn't disengage? If this is the case, you may have assembled the basket wrong, or forgot to put the ball bearing in after you install the disengagement actuator rod. This is what commonly welds itself together when you pull the clutch in going downhill, or coasting, and you don't have enough oil in the tranny. Now, a couple questions for you. Does the clutch lever pull in and out freely? Does it fell like it is actually moving anything? When the clutch cover is off, and you pull the clutch lever, can you see the pressure plate move away from the clutch plates? Also, the screw that you "moved all over the place" has a specific adjustment parameter or all hell will break loose, or weld itself together, as previously mantioned. Did the bike all of the suden do this, or did you put a new clutch in>?

having machined several of these flywheels, I can attest that they are made of crap materials. Steel being the main thing. it machines like garbage. The rivits they use are sub par. There is a reason they are so cheap. using scrap metal for flywheels is not the way to do things.

Bunch of us are going up the weekend of 28-30

Sounds like the crank may be out of phase, or something not timed right. May have to put a degree wheel on it, and measure both cylinders.

Yep, previously I meant to say oil and water! And on the seal, pry it out.

I made my own stem and bar clamps to run Tag T2 bars (1 1/8" dia.). I rose the bars 4" over stock height I think. Cables were alright. Although, I have a braided line on the front brake line.

Well that's a snotty attitude to havestreet, but FWIW, you can copy any patent you want, provided you do not benefit financially from it. You can't sell it. But, you can use it. I have several machine designs in use and working that are not patented, so that noone can even copy it.

Yes, coolant and water don't mix very well, and when they do, it turns the oil to a milky white substance.

Do you have a fouled spark plug? Perhaps clogged up jet in the carb?

I can't see anyone using white grease in there. If that happened, you have to split the cases. That would be the only way.

I was borred, and waiting for dinner to be done cooking..... :cool:

Trouble with pulling the reed cages, is that you are cracking into bolts on the motor. Looking into the exhaust port will tell you if it was leaned out. If a 2 stroke leans out, it will melt the exhaust port side of the crown of the piston. If it detonated, than there will be a hole in the top of the piston, very close to dead center under the spark plug. With pipes and a filter, open airbox, I run 300 mains, and 310-320 for colder temps. 360 mains are HUGE! I'm at 900'. Original poster needs to pull the pipes off, and look to check the exhaust side of the piston. If nothing there, than pull the carbs off, but I wouldn't go further. It may have also sucked the reeds in, if they weren't installed properly. I have never seen both go at once though.

Sounds like some bad oil, and your shifter shaft could have some problem in the engagement with the shift star. There is an adjustment that can be made to line the shaft "forks" up with the star. When you pull the clutch cover to check the water pump seal condition, you can also check the shift shaft tolerances, which will be listed in the Clymer Service that you are going to have to buy because #1 you need one, and #2, you need one.

Some simple things you can do without actually cracking a nut or bolt on the motor for him to blame you for something would be to pull the pipes off. Gently roll the motor over, and look in the exhaust port. You should see the piston, and if it leaned out, you will see scoring on the piston, and perhaps some melted aluminum bleeding down the side of the piston in the exhaust port side of the piston. This an indication of leaning out. You can also check to make sure a ring didn't catch. You could also pull a plug to have a peek at that. You will want to look at the plug for specs of aluminum, which would be a sign of detonation. also, look for a hole in the top of the piston. One can complement the other, and make it worse. Basically, a lean condition, on a motor that is on the verge of detonation will accelerate it's progress in the detonation factor. Detonation can be caused by improper squish(you just had the motor rebuilt, was the head cut to a different piston previously to cause an improper squish?) too much advance or too much compression for the octane fuel your using. You will hear detonation as what is referred to as "pinging". You may have also wound the crank out of phase, which is unlikely, but possible if not welded. Either way, you have to locate what happened, if you expect to be able to point any fingers. And if you crack that motor open, you have no leg to stand on. But as mentioned previously, there are some things you can do to try to determine what happened.

My bike refused to start last week. I pulled it out of storage, and nothing. Low and behold, a good ass kickin carb cleanin action and it fired right up. It absolutely REFUSED to start. I suggest you pull the carbs back off, and go over everything slowly. Clean each jet with cleaner and compressed air. You say you have new mains and pilots, just curious why you had to replace jets, and replace other parts as well? Anyways, use cleaner, (I use brake cleaner) and compressed air to clean your jets. If need be, get a set of torch tip cleaners, and you can run one of those through the jet.

Couple things to check, one is swap plug wires side to side. That eliminates a bad cap, or wire. Next, check the reeds. Make sure they are closing. And also check to be sure you have the carb slides in the proper carb. It is possible to put them in backwards. The angled cutaway on the slide needs to face the air cleaner/airbox. Also make sure you have the choke crossover tube in place.

You know what they say, close only counts in Horshoes and ............. Anyways, the trick of the matter is that the "original" gear in the equation, (the one your in BEFORE the shift) cannot be dislodged from it's mating gear while under load. Hence the reason it needs to be seperated from the next gear. And the almost simultaneous, if ya think about it, it has to be disengaged from the previous gear, and then once it's disengaged, slide into the opposite side, where it will engage the following gear. In reality, it can only really happen simultaneously in an override tranny!

The difference as it was explained to me long ago between a true override tranny, and what is done here is that one is useable anywhere, and one is useable track only. In most of the mods discussed in this thread, the engagement dogs have been removed. Every other "dog". What that does is let the gears mesh with each other quicker, and eliminate missed shifts. A missed shift can occur when the dog from the incoming gear hit head to head with the gear it's trying to mesh with. if you are not applying pressure long enough to let the dogs "skip" over and alow them to properly line up, than the bike will hang in gear, or stay in the previous gear. When I speak of the engagement, and the dogs, I am not speaking of actual gear tooth mesh. I am speaking of the wonderfully provided pics of where BenBB ground out every other dog, (just to clarify). Now, an override transmission is something totally different. In a basic sense, the shift drum "pathways" are welded closed. This removes the tempering in the drum, due to the heat. Now, new pathways are cut. Now, what does this do? Well, you need to understand that when one gear is trying to be selected, the previous gear needs to be disengaged, before the other one can be engaged. This is done with the shift forks, and the stock shift drum. Next time you have your cases split, run the shifter through the gear with the gearset in the lower case half, and watch what happens for each gear. Now, that being said, one way to a faster shift is to allow the previously engaged gear to stay "engaged" while the next gear takes over. Now, the problem with this application after the new pathways are cut, and everything is set up is that once you select a gear, usually past second, you CANNOT let off the throttle without disengaging the clutch. That's why most trannies are only overrided for 3rd gear and up. If you let the tranny engage on decelleration, it wil lock up, and grenade. There are "double" engaged gears in the tranny, which I believe are cut in half, so they allow independant motion from one another. By double gears, I mean that when they are slid one way on the shaft, it is one gear, and when slid the other way to mesh with another gear, that is a diferrent gear. The trouble is that when that "first" gear is engaged, and you are on the throttle, it is tough to disengage that cog to allow the engagement of the next gear, but if you split the collar, and allow independant engagement of either gear, now you can shift under load. This post may be hard to follow, but this is my understanding of overridden trannies. If confused, re-read, and look at an actual tranny and how it works. it didn't make sense untill one night while assembling mhy motor for whichever time it was, I ran it through the gears, and watched what happened, and it made sense. With an override, just don't let off without pulling the clutch....