boonman

Is the bike engaging third gear? What about if you switch to fourth? If it is in fact going into gear, than most likely the above mentioned clutch is the likely culprit.

Take them to a tire shop. I drilled a new hole on the other side of the rim. Them, when you go to the tire shop, you have them put a valve stem in backwards on the original hole, (so it doesn't hit the calipers) and put a normal stem in the other hole. I believe it is 1/2" diameter. No need to run a tube. Anyways, you would risk blowing the tube by it coming out of the original valve stem hole. it is fairly simple. The tire shop should hook you up for a minimal price.

My bike leaks oil from almost the same spot. You probably got the gasket a little crooked in there. it happened to me when I put the cover on the first time. And then it got messed up. And i never got a new one. So, it leaks when I ride it and the oil gets stirred up. I will fix it over the winter when I pull the motor. But, I would drain the oil and coolant, and pull the coverand check the gasket. if it is kinked, and not useable, go to the parts store, and get some RTV silicone. Works like a champ...

OK compression? Did you test it? is the fuel valve turned on? Is there gas in the tank? it has happened to me before. You say it seems to be getting fuel. Are you sure? I would try pullign the carbs apart and clean them. Is the choke tube between the carbs in place? Are the plugs fouled? Unplug the brain box for the TORS, it has 3 wires going into it, and it is under the left side of the tank... That will eliminate that as a problem.

No. it will not. The same springs remain inside the carb. It may be slightly easier, but hardly noticeable. And the TORS units will still be on the carb themselves. You can disable it without purchasing the kit by unplugging the brain module which is located adjacent to the coil, underneath the left side of the fuel tank. No future problems related to the TORS system. Often times the switches located in the clutch lever perch, and the throttle housing fail, and make the system operate falsely, causing major headaches. Also, jetting becomes easier because the units are no longer on top of the carbs. You have a couple choices here. Either get a twist throttle, so your thumb won't be tired. or, you can grind down the sides of the spring to relieve the tension in the spring. I wouldn't do that myself, you risk hanging the slide up in the carb because the spring may not have enough pressure to hold the slide down when you let off. Also, if done unevenly, you will create a weak spot in the spring, and it will eventualy break. Another route you can go is to just suck it up buttercup, it's a banshee and you have to take some of the good with the bad. Get used to it. Or, the final option is to get a single carb setup. This may perhaps be the most expensive route....

This was my point. I just re-read my post and it kind of sounds like I was trying to be a prick. That was not my intention at all. People don't want to reveal their secrets, or findings to the public. Anyways, I am talking with Jim myself, along with some other builders to see who i think I want to go with. I have some goals, and to meet them, it will take some mastery with the grinder.

What a pickle licker. People that do things such as this should have fingers removed so they can no longer pilfer FREE material that individuals have worked very hard on. I bet that someday, he will get what he deserves. Maybe i will buy one of his other auctions, and get his address. And then take retribution out of his ass......

The attraction to the tapered bars is that they flex. This in turn reduces vibration felt to the hands, reduces fatigue, and gives you an overall better ride. if you changed bar dimensions at the grips, you would need all new controls, (that are most likely not available) and I doubt there are even grips available. I love the Tags. Excellent piece....

it is the star like piece behind the clutch basket that your shifter actuates. it turns the shift drum which changes gears inside the transmission with sliding forks. The star has large peaks on it that hinder it's movement. When these are removed, it makes shifting cleaner, and easier. When the neutral mod is also done, it makes neutral a little easier to find. And Jim hit it on the head with the pipes. This can be a thouht out plan for the future, or you can go for the power now. If you have plans in the future of modding the motor more, than get the pipes that you will want in the future now perhaps. I have a set of FMF fatty pipes with Power Core 2 silencers that I wil be parting with sometime soon. I am going to be doing some things to the motor that will be requiring some different pipes. Quite possible pipes that aren't yet available. We'll see in the future though. Anyways, think on it, and think where you want to be next season power wise. Maybe it may be best to save some extra $$ now and get it ported, and piped, and everything at once.... looking back, I would/should have done that myself...

When you pull it apart, make sure you have a table or a workbench that you can lay out the parts on. Clean everything real good. Make sure you have a clymer manual, and tear into it. When it is all back together, be sure to do a leakdown on it to be sure it is tight. I don't have an answer for your clutch rod question except that i know that that part can be had on Ebay. I have seen them there many times...

How are you sure you don't have an air leak? I had a leak once at the carb boot, and it wouldn't suck air untill the upper RPM range. A melted top end finally alleviated the situation. I hate air leaks. How did you test it? How long did it hold vacuum? On your theory about the carb not having enough fuel in them, I don't think that is a valid argumant. It takes less than 5 seconds for a properly fed carb to fill the bowls. As long as your fuel feed line(s) aren't pinched, it shouldn't be a problem. By the time you turn the fuel on, and hop on it, the bowl would be half full of fuel. You shouldn't be having to mess with the pilot jet as much as you are. I still believe you have an air leak. It seems like the only explanation for the wierdness you are experiencing. And the stator theory, A weak stator should put out enough zing at idle, and when the revs pick up, you are drawing more power, and it wouldn't be able to handle it. In theory, it sounds good. But, I have never seen a "weak stator" on a bike. I did have a loose wire on my coil a couple times and it would backfire and what not at higher revs. it would start and idle fine, but not run up top. Kind of the opposite thing that you are experiencing. I don't know alot about single carb jetting. never messed with one. But, jetting is jetting. SO, what kind of guage are you using for compression testing, and what setup do you have for leakdown tests? Being that you have a 2-1 intake, this could pose a slight problem for narrowing down a leak if one exists, but you should be able to tell either way. 7" of vacuum for 7 minutes is a decent rule of thumb. I personally like to see them hold it for longer, but at that length of time, it should be fine to run without a problem.....

Because that is people's business. it is how some make their living. And they strive for the most power, and aren't exactly too keen to give out their specs. However, you are more than welcome to send your cylinders out to a reputable builder for some work......

I don't know why you would need a speedometer. Anyways, I can suggest some mods though. Some you can do yourself. I would shave the head, lighten the flywheel, mod the shift star, (these can be had for $140, including shipping). Now, I would get some jets, and get a set of used pipes. Ebay would be the place for that. A set of pipes will wake the bike up like no other mod can make happen. Although some of the little mods can make a big difference in rideability when added up. You can take a dremel and port your reed cages. This will improve flow into the motor, and give you better throttle response. The flywheel mod and head mod will give wicked throttle response. And the head mod will give some power to you as well. Good luck.

Are you sure you don't have an air leak? With that idle deal you just posted about? Anyways, on the smoking thing. My bike smokes like that when I fire it up and it will do that untill I ride it. Although, it does smoke as well while I'm riding it a little bit more than I think it should..... I am running klotz super techniplate at 40:1. I know it's not the oil mix. plugs look fine, lean if anything. So, I wouldn't worry too much about the smoke. I don't know what is up with your compression reading. I just did mine yesterday. I shaved and re-worked my head, and i haven't cc'd it at all, but I am at 192 on the guage. I am at 800' elevation. Now, about your theory on the tranny oil burning. If this was the case, it would be burning only on the right hand side. And every time I have seen a crank seal go on the right side, (this is what has to happen for you to suck tranny oil in) it smokes ridiculously out of the right pipe only. The cylinders are seperated and the oil can't jump over to the left cylinder. It smells HORRIBLE, and the smoke is out of control. Like you threw about a box of smoke bombs in the pipe and lit 'em up.... I would pull the head off since you have a cool head and get new o-rings and be absolutely sure it is installed correctly. Process of elimination...

it sounds as though you have a leak in there somewhere. You should have 0 leakage. Although, you could have a leak at the rubber exhaust plug that you used, or something else like that that could be unrelated motor wise. And some sealant inside usually doesn't hurt a thing. but, if it gets in the wrong places and if theres alot of it, it could cause you difficulties. I would check everything that you used for the leakdown test, and make sure it is sealed up..... Before you go pulling the cylinders and what not....

I have had my Tag T2 bars for well over a year now and have had NO problems with that. My shee sits outside sometimes, in the back of the truck, wherever. No problems..... You must have either done something wrong, or got a bad set of bars.......

DO NOT mount your stock shock or any shock designed for use on a factory linkage equipped banshee. It does NOT have enough travel. And it will be improperly valved. You must have the right equipment for this changeover. LIke a new shock, and a swingarm that is designed to work without the linkage. The linkage lets you get alot of travel out of a swingarm with not alot of shock travel. The stock arm is designed to work with the linkage. If you moved the mounting point, it would be possible. However, you still need a new shock....

The stock crank isn't rebuildable. You need new webs and what not. Wiseco makes the parts, as does Yamaha. It really isn't worth replacing some of the parts. You should replace them all. But, if your crank isn't bad, don't worry about it. Just have it welded, and put it back together....

Me too!!!!!!

I am going to be testing that real soon. I will keep y'all posted. That is a simple install, well, relatively simple. I am not sure about the AC/DC thing, but we'll see....

I am willing to invest as much time as it takes. And on the sled clutch thing, this isn't for a rotax motor. It is for a shee motor. And just throwing sled clutches on a bike doesn't mean it is going to work. There can be more money in the hole with having on hand different helix' on hand for clutching changes and what not. it is not an exact science. More so on the trial and error system. Unless you have alot of money and can graph everything on a PC. I have run sleds in the grass and been on some record setting runs. I know what it takes to get there. I would rather make a setup that can work just like everyone is used to, and still be able to take a cruise around without worrying about all the othr crap that goes along with an override..... And I don't think it will cost a ton of money. The tach I have in mind is giving a slight problem. it is only accurate to 10,000 RPM. I may be running over that mark. We'll see when the time comes. But, it should work for 90% of the bikes out there. (the tach) and the tranny design should work for 95% of the stock trannied bikes... Hopefully. Those are my goals, and I will achieve them in one way or another. THings on the testing front are on hold right now, I am supposed to be moving this weekend. And moving into my new house. Although with all the grief the friggin mortgage people have put me through, I am gonna flip out..... but, all will be well in a little time.....

$28 shipped is the cost. Out the door pricing on that. And the same holds true with the other small mods I can do. Prices include shipping within the US. continental...... unless you live in some outlandish area, I don't mind spending an extra dollar or two to get it back to ya....

We survived fairly decently here in Buffalo. it wasn't as bad as others had it though. We were only out for about 7 hours. And even then, it was only certain areas. Where I work, Of course had power. And at home, we were without power. And of course, we have well water, so no showering up with no water. And you can't cook without water. Well, some things you can, but anyways, it kind of made you look at how well prepared you are, and just what things are taken for granted everyday.......

This is all new!!! I think I like it. We'll see how it goes in the next few days as all the bugs get worked out..... It is good that we have some new life here!! I love that Lee cares enough about the HQ, and it's members enough to give some variety here!! And of course, some will be mad, but you can't please everyone...... We'll just all have to pony up here and get all the info back in the forums........ it will take time.... But, I remember the last switch over and it all was worth it. I am sure this one will be too.....

tip it up on it's side, pull the cover off, and use some RTV silicone my friend...