boonman

This is by FAR the better setup!!!!! I would definitely go this route. if you are going to rebuild it anyways, why not make it better!!!!

Coolhead, I agree with BD fully. It depends what you want to do down the road. SOme people just prefer to have the blingin head, and don't care about the cost. Others want the power for cheap. You can get the MAXIMUM amount of power out of a coolhead and CUSTOM domes. But, the custom domes are not cheap, and take some doing to get them made. Myself, I at this moment believe in the milled head. However, I will son be purchasing a cool head to run as I am going to be needing maximum power. I'm gonna be dragging next season. So, I am thinking that different domes will be used in different areas.... (different elevations at different tracks.) The ignition advance, an adjustable plate is always the best, but keys IMHO are fine if installed properly. I am currently running a +4 key, and I have had no problem with it.... And for tires, I ran holeshots, and turf tamers. Overall, I like the tamers better. 20" size for trails and overall use....

Mains here are $2 ea. Pilots are $7.50 each. Pilots in stock carbs are banshee specific. Meaning that they are unique to the banshee, and are not used in other carbs. like a regular Mikuni. The mains are Mikuni hex, and are not banshee specific. Pilots must be bought from a dealer, or from someone who seals with banshees alot. Like Vito's or somewhere like that....

it sounds to me that either the gear is not engaging fully, (shift fork problem) or the gear has lost the engagement dogs or teeth or both. i am wondering how much metal is floating around in the tranny. Have you drained and inspected the oil? I drain it through a coffee filter. This will trap any debris so you can see it and inspect what is going on inside.... Either way, with a shift fork or gear, you still have to split the case...

Very good investment. it will provide you with a piece of mind that you will never have a problem/nightmare of the ball welding to the shaft. Which is not a good thing. Whoever it has happened to I am sure will attest.....

If your second gear is sliping, how is it slipping. If the gear is bad, it should make a horrendous noise as it grinds inside the case. you would be able to hear this. If it is the clutch, your RPM's will rise and the bike won't go any faster. Which is it? Grinding/chattering, or just unconttrollable revving at WOT...

When you try to shift into neutral from first gear, does it always go to second?

The swingarm carrier mounting is different. And the A-arms, but you knoew about the arms...

I think the shee does just fine. I recommend paddles in the snow. I tried them, and they were superb........... Oh, here is a pic of my shee in the snow....

Try making less than 20 a year.........

I like my IMS. With the boiling water trick, I almost get 6 gallons in there.... yeeeeehawwwwwwwwww.......

Sometimes, this can be the most effective in diagnosing electrical problems....

I have an AC baja bar. Or whatever it's called. and a -2 arm. Here is a pic. or two... My silencers don't hit. I tip the shee up to wash it. no problems..... And I don't ever hit the grab bar in a wheelie.

SOunds like you galled the inner race on there. You will have to cut it off. How did you try to cut it off and it didn't work? It almost has to work.... Get a cutoff wheel, and your set...

It csounds as though you may be burning coolant. Is the coolant level diminishing? Does the exhaust from that side smell different than the right side? If it is coolant, it will smell sweeter...

I can't believe it. 23 replies in an hour. This has to be an HQ record of some sort!!!!! but seriously there Foxy, ya gotta give some more info if your gonna get some serious answers on this. Now, this is a machine for you correct? I suggest a new 450 from Yamaha. It will beat a stock Banshee, and you would be happy and "badass" on it. Where is it that you want to ride? Trails? Dunes? Open fields? Where? This will determine everything. A 450 would do ALL of that though. Which is why I feel it would be the best choice for you. it is also electric start, which is a plus!!!!

I am running Fattys on my bike currently, And I like them alot for the mixed riding that i do. An SST pipe will give more top end power, but when compared to a fatty, you will lose the lower end of the midrange that the Fatty provides. It's not much, and I don't know what kind of riding you do....

The best model would of course be a Banshee. Or, one of the new YFZ 450 machines. They are an excellent machine as well. Welcome to the HQ, and like said, you will learn ALOT!!! And their are LOTS of nice people here, With myself of course, leading the list. Not really, but stick around long enough and you will become knowledgable at this game.....

You are correct. But, in every thread, and every reply to that thread, there is a report button. Feel free to use it!!

I have not seen the tranny oil get sucked into the left cylinder. It stays in the right cylinder. Also, what does the smoke smell like? If it is horrid, it is tranny oil. If it smells sweet, it is coolant. I would be suspect of a bad seat for the seal on the crank. If it has even the smallest of nicks on it, it will tear up the seal in no time....

Bad CDI= no run at all. usualy, it just dies. I have NEVER seen a CDI work partially. They either work, or no workie..... Blown head gasket= Depends on the style of head you have. They can either completley blow, where you would be getting the compressed mixture blowing right out of the gasket area, or a "partial blow" as I like to call it, where your compressed mix goes directly into the coolant passages. I had the latter happen to me. it did exactly as you describe. Here's why: For one, you are losing ALOT of compression on the blown side. Therefore, you are not going to burn the mixture very well. Also, you are sucking coolant on that side. Mine overheated and hot siezed when I blew the gasket. I was in Silver Lake in the dunes, on a fresh motor. When I got it running again, the coolant hose blew off the water pump, and sprayed all over my foot. I was not happy. I discovered my torque wrench was a POS, and I winged it somewhere on the side of the road in Pentwater Mich. I borrowed one, pulled the top end off, and rebuilt it by the fireside at 2 AM that night. I had to ride the next day!!! And we had no flashlights. lol On a bad Coil, it can be weak, and not give enough spark, or it can just fail and die completely.

If your engine doesn't ping on the current fuel you are using, I would stick with it. No need to be dumping extra money on octane that you don't need.

I like to try to do both. (the cold and warmed up readings) And holding the throttle open will get some fuel and oil into the cylinders, and also let air into the motor to make the compression. And yes, like mentioned before, kick it over untill the needle stops moving. Mine stops moving at 195 or so...

This is the way it should be done!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I run my damper to the left front engiine mount.....