boonman

The spring and ball inside the kicker is also part of the problem....

I ran paddles at the last drags. I know exactly what you are talking about. We used to run the P.R.O. circuit with the 440 sled. Still hold the record in that class I believe. Anyways, spider tracks, studded seemed to work good. With the paddles, it hooked incredible off the line, but I think in the long run, it wasn't the tire of choice.... We shorten the sled track to 300' for the ATV's. I am just getting into this, and I have some ideas that I am going to be trying out next season. I am changing over to full drag bike. Or buying another bike for this purpose... I don't know just yet. I am gathering parts and testing all winter......

Wow!!! One of the first times I have been in this forum.. I was talking with someone yesterday, about an idea that I have for a drag setup. it deals with the whole bike, but the tranny was one of the areas I thought needed some work from the current overide setups. What if I could get a tranny to work like an overide, (not losing any time on the clock) but you could shift up AND DOWN through the gears at will. :shock: It occured to me mainly for sand dragging, mostly when you aren't racing and just want to just ride around a little bit and not worry about spitting shift forks and what not..... And what if I could computerize the bike and all you would have to do is launch, pin the throttle, and hang on untill the end, and the bike does the rest. Like an automatic transmission of sorts. I am also working on a cheap tach as well. Consistent as all hell I think it would be. :twisted: I know I can do it, and I was just curious as to the demand for such things...... I don't know, perhaps this type of thing already exists. And if it does, someone please let me know.....

Because it is a playback tach... Also, my sunpro tach that i run in the S-10 says in the instructions that it will run on a 2-cylinder engine....

I usually use my teeth to open a bottle.... :shock:

It does both. It makes shifting between gears easier, with less missed shifts, and with the neutral backcut, it makes neutral easier to find as well.....

Dam. It wouldn't bump without posting again.... :?

Sweet. I will look for them in the morning. Unless someone else can try to help u out before then.....

It's already balanced before you lighten it. No need to do it again....

That shouldn't change your compression. And you should always check your jetting after any mod just to be sure, but it shouldn't change it...

Are you sure??? Did you take all the jets out and clean them individually? Or did you just spray the whole thing and blow the carb out and put the bowl back on??

A light tap with a brass hammer should do the trick. An impact tightens as it "hammers" it, both at the same time..... Sweet, very sweet tool. And sometimes, it can be tricky getting the woodruff key to stay in place, especially with an aftermarket crank..... A combination of grease and never sieze got mine back on...

There are snap rings on the bearings????? Perhaps they are not in the proper place..... :shock: I don't know without looking at it what the problem is.... Can you snap a pic?

Indeed, it drives the clutch. And the water pump too I believe....

Both cylinders are supposed to have the rubber plugs in the bottom of the cylinder..... I would go get ya some new ones...

Indeed. No measureable power difference, although it probably changes the torque curve slightly as compared to a stock unit. I use one, I lighten them myself, and I recommend it to anyone. And this business that I hear about it not being good for "heavier" riders is a bunch of crap. I am tipping the ol' scale at about 230 now and I have no problems with my bike. I LOVE IT!!!!! :twisted:

I didn't use a fuse but I am stupid when it comes to things like that. I would be using a 15 amp fuse. at a full 200 watts, you will draw 16.6 amps at 12 volts. But the shee puts out closer to 14 which would be about 14 amps..... And yes, clarify if you want the stock lights and the new ones, or just the new ones...... And I believe I just used the yellow wire....

Shave .030" depending on elevation.

Trial and error is the trick. I have never had to mess with mine once I set it.... it needs to be centered when the shifter is in it's "neutral" position, (not to be confused with neutral in the tranny).

You have the right one!! I ran a wire directly from that wire off the stator to a toggle switch. From there, i split it off to my lights, (Hella 500 lights) and I grounded the lights ground wires to the frame.... Worked like a champ...

It sounds like you may have an air leak or a clogged pilot jet. Either way, uncontrollable revving, (such as you describe) can almost always be attributed to an air leak if nothing else has changed. (Like timing, etc......)

I ran a toggle switch directly from the stator output wire. I eliminated the entire stock junk. No need for it when you eliminate the switch. This however, is only if you are running single beam lights......

I have an estimate, so can I talk? I hope so. My shee covers about 10 feet on wet grass in the manner you describe. On the drags, I cover a full 300' before I shift into 6th. so that would be 100 yards for me.

If you disconnect this box, which is adjacent to the ignition coil, it will disable the entire TORS system from messing with the spark. This is the way you check to see if it causing your problems...

:roll: I am soooooooo very sorry to hear that....... but as mentioned, the owner depictsa how the bike will last. I have seen people prove me wrong, but they are few and far between....