boonman

Last time my off duty cop friend was out shooting aimless radar around town, I got clocked going 142 MPH+. He told me down at the local diner, because he say my shee parked outside. He was just carrying his radar around with him. It was cool, we were clocking the top speed of the waitresses. WHo could only shake their fat asses at a top speed of 2.2 MPH. What a day it was..

Well, let me tell you, with the Wiseco LR crank in my bike and also using my FMF Ram valves, I was able to get an extra 72.5 HP out of my bike. On the dyno!!!! Those Evolution people must really know their stuff. I should have gotten these things years ago!!!!! Anyways havoc, they are a falacy. They aren't real. They were listed on an ad for a banshee that was on ebay I believe is how it all started. Funny topic once in awhile...

I love the 5th gear wheelies. nothing better than leaning back, and nailing it when rolling @ 55-60!!!!

Not that I've ever experienced... Here, read this.. Jetting TO READ PLUGS PROPERLY YOU WILL NEED A 10x ILLUMINATED MAGNIFYING GLASS 1,2,3. This is how it's done! 1. You set your heat range from the ground strap. (this is the piece closest to the piston) 2. You do all the plug readings for jetting from the base ring (thebase ring is what the ground strap is welded to at the end of the threads) 3. You determine detonation and timing issues from the porcelain. (The porcelain shows preignition/detonation, it will not accurately determine jetting / air/fuel ratios) DO NOT BASE JETTING DECISIONS ON THE PORCELAIN COLOR. 1. How to determining plug heat range: The ground strap is your window to getting this right. If the "color" of the ground strap "changes" too-close to the ground-strap's end, (the end opposite of the base ring), then the heat-range is "too-cold", (heat transfer is to quick to the base ring) If the "color" of the strap changes near where it is welded to the base-ring, then it means that the plug heat-range is "too-hot", (heat transfer to the base ring is to slow causing the deposits to be burned off the strap completely) The strap at this point could start working like a "glow-plug", probably resulting in pre-ignition/and/or detonation. The properly set heat-range is when the "color" is at the half-way point on the strap. 2. Reading the base ring to determine jetting: The base ring "color" is very close to the color of the piston crown and is used to determine the jetting. Your looking for the soot color to be a nice light to medium brown, (color is always hard to describe) if the color doesn1t go all the way around the base ring (at least one full thread turn on the plug) or the color is whitish it is way too lean. If the color goes all the way around, but there is a spotting of heavy dry soot on the top of the color, you are too rich. ( TWO STROKEJETTING WILL BE A LITTLE WETTER LOOKING AND DARKER THEN A FOUR STROKE ) 3. Read the porcelain to determine detonation / preignition: The first signs of detonation / preignition will be seen on the porcelain down in the plug, It shows up as tiny black or shinny specks of aluminum. Also Look very close around the center electrode where the porcelain intersects, this will appear to be melting between the insulator and the electrode. Detonation is caused by the air/fuel mixture exploding rather then burning. This gives off a sound, (a knock) this sound is the result of a shock wave, this wave disrupts the boundary layer of cooler gases that cover the internal parts of the combustion chamber. This causes a very rapid rise in pressure and temperature. The results are holes in the top or sides of the pistons, blown head gaskets, broken rods, (all bad stuff) This can also shock the rings from there seal causing oil to form as little spots on the porcelain. Print this off and use it for reference. Here is also a link I got from Wheatchex, it explains carbs and their respective circuits so you can understand what these things do.. http://204.71.0.3/motoprof/moto/mcycle/car...01/carb101.html

I didn't re-jet with it. maybe one size, but i doubt you will have to..

I have one. I do not like it. But it is in place and I don't think it urts anything. So I leave it alone. I also have an amp link. I like it.

I would say stich with the AC, unless you can get one from CC metal works. I won one off of Ebayawhile back for a friend. 1/4" thick it looked to be. That thing is a tank. Better fit and finish than my AC was/is. But, my AC, I can't speak enough about. I have been running 18" tires most of the summer due to axle problems, and now I am runing my stock bent axle. Anything but the light 18" make it shake uncontrollably. So, I would say either the AC, or the CC if you can find one. I liked the Idea of the PRM, with the linkage protection, but as stated before, I have the mind to think that mud, snow and other things would find their way in there. I have run open linkage this long, and with the 18" tires, I have smacked some serious shit, almost threw me off the bike sometimes, but that linkage is a stout piece. It's up to you though!!!! Just get some feedback and make the call!!!!!!!

I also run Klotz. Has been working sweet. ALthough, I have burned up 3 top ends this year. I have learned a ton though from it. It was never due to the oil though. I used to mix 32:1, now @ 40:1, and i will switch to 50:1 most likely.

I sometimes run with my top on, and with it off. Either way, the drain is always open and I have submerged the ass end of the machine momentarily without the top and it never skipped a beat. I always spray out the box with the pressure washer when I clean her, and it always fires right up after repeated direct hits with the sprayer...

I would be in on a few things..

what's this "overall" rating???? Yamaha is the only current manufacturer to produce every recreational vehicle on the market. (within reason) When was the last time you saw a Suzuki jet ski or snowmobile? Or a honda for that matter. There isn't one overall manufacturer.... They all excell in their own categories. And Suzuki does not have the sportbike market wrapped up. Watch the races... Your local dragstrip is not where there focus is. I can understand that everyone would be riding a big bore bike at the strip, but on my 750, I would win all the time in bracket racing, but bracket racing IMHO is not racing. Heads up is the only way to go. Handicaps are for golf. And on a street bike, it's 80% the rider. They all post extremely close to the same numbers.......

If you have that much net hanging down, then there is a problem. I would think you have the nets pulled tooo tight. I have AC's and I have about 1-2" hanging. I just leave it. THe pressure washer takes care of it..

Ouch. I don't believe I would be touching his mother. I wonder if she is as stupid as he is??? If both his parents are stupid?? Well, you know what they say, Stupid people shouldn't F#$*!!!!!!! YFS is a homosexual boy!!!! Go to team queers and hang with abso....

I have never used it. My mailbox would be full all the time!!!!

I use a UNI foam filter, w/outerwear, snorkel off, lid on and no holes in lid.. Works awesome for anything. Sand, mud, anything..

LEAVE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

You can put all the TORS stuff back on and just leave it unplugged or you you can buy the thumb throttle cable from motion pro that works with the eliminator kit AND the thumb throttle. I have one. Works great. I was not a big fan of my twist for CC and MXing but I liked it in the dunes...

I'm on a stocker..

Twist in the dunes, thumb everywhere else..

In your case Banshee kid, If you have to ask thhat question on this site, I think a Raptor would be good for you. The Raptor 90 that is........ Bansheeeeeeeeeeeee forever.........