boonman

$65 gets you a satisfaction guaranteed flywheel mod. Shiping included. 9 oz. of weight is removed from the flywheel. The gains are a much crisper throttle response. Unparalleled. It helps in every riding condition that can be thrown at the bike..... if you don't like it, shhip it back to me, and I'll send you a stock flywheel and your money back to you..... You pay the return shippping though. So, it's much worth it to try. I have NEVER had one come back. Everyone has been very satisfied. I now do RZ flywheels as well.

Sounds like something wasn't tightened down properly in the stator, or it wasn't oiled properly upon assembly. Did you run pre-mix fuel in it for the heat cycleS? Sounds stoopid, but it may happpen to be overlooked.......

I am guessing that the redtrinity420 person was "warrior" over on bt. Oh well. I also noticed that Brooke is an "amateur". Just wondering what other things you are involved in that are "amateur???"

I do believe he frequents Bluetraxx as well as this site...... He also lives somwhere near me. At least in NYS.......

That just did it rright there!!! Mature?? How mature can a 12 year old be? Kind of odd....... But I agree on the let it rest thing. All this has come up before. It's kind of childish......

Holy shit!!!! Scraping over site wars???? lmmfao!!! That is some funny shit.

I wouldn't do it. Plugs are cheap. And I can't remember the last time I fouled one in my bike. Actually, the only time I have changed the plugs is when the top end goes.... On a serious note, I change them at the start of every season. That's it.

As you get closer to sea level from a higher elevation, the air is denser. Meaning that per Cubic Foot of air, there is more oxygen packed into it. Therefore, you need more fuel to compensate. There fore richer jetting. So, down in elevation, requires an increase in jet size. Going up in elevation, requires a decrease in jet size...

Don't know why you used 6th gear.... Could have used first. Would have worked better. ANyways, an impact works great for getting the nut off. And then, the tapping method will eventually loosen the peskiest of flywheels. And starting the bike without the flywheel torqued down is an absolute NO-NO!!!! That is asking for the key to shear and really ruin your day when it takes out the crank!!!!!

Woa Woa Woa!!!!!!!! If it is a brand new top end, you NEED to heat cycle it first. Works like this. Fire it up, (I always run whatever fuel I will be running in it when it is all done) and let it IDLE. Maybe a couple blips to take it to like 3,000 RPM or so, but nothing more. Let it get good and hot. About 5-10 minutes. Shut it off. Check the plugs. Make sure they aren't going to foul. Let it comletely cool down. Fire it up again. Let it idle untill it's hot. Shut it off. You need to do 3 heat cycles. Then, ride it easy for the first tank, and slowly get back into it. This is for long life motors. If you race, heat cycle it, and then go rip the crap out of it. I don't think there is much difference. But the heat cycles is what is important IMHO. The way metal expands and contracts, it is necessary to set everything up proper. I have never had a problem with this method.....

Does this bike have the stock TORS unit on it? Or does it have the removal kit? I would just buy a stock clutch cable and keep it lubed. It works fine for me.... Or a motion Pro cable works good as well. There are Terry Cables out there, but they are $$$$$ If you have the TORS removal kit, you need to buy a cable for that. If you have the TORS still in place, I suggest buying the removal kit. It gives you a new cable with it.

If you do re-ring it, it is best to hone the cylinders as well. This will let the rings break in. It all depends. I have re-rung motors with no problem. If it was my motor though, I would have to base it on how much use the pistons have. I would prolly just re-ring it..... Checkthe bore though. If it is oblonged, than you need to bore it...... Otherwise, the piston will break due to piston slap and excessive clearances.....

I am thinking that that oil has the modifiers in it. You need to not run oil that contains these things. Bel ray gear saver is an expensive, but good oil for a shee tranny. It's what it was designed for..........

Nope. But, if you don't lube the chain, you will destroy the chain and sprockets. Is your jetting going to be alright for where you are going? Also, don't listen to your buddies all the time. Someone who fires off with a comment about you tearing up your drivetrain because of paddle tires needs to be Get you some paddles, check your jetting, and go have fun.....

Did you have the porting done at the same time as the head mod? If so, there's your issue. Cold cranking compression numbers will lower with porting. However, with the head mod, your compression ratio actually went up. If you had the porting before, and just did the head mod, you have other problems? Did you re-use the head gasket?

Can't give me a quote????? I would have shoved that little monkey faced knuckle draggin neanderthol's head soooo far up his ass and then screwed him repeatedly for nonsense like that. I hate moronic dealers..........

I do think alot. Too much. It gets me in trouble. I'm thinkin next week. SHould have everything set up.... Got to find the cheapest supplier.....

Get ya ass to Home Depot, and buy a bigger hammer. You need a really BFH to get this job done. Liek a 20 lb. sledge will do. Just have good aim. Don't hit the frame. Last but not least, you could use the hot wrench....

I'll take 2 XL's and 2 kids L. If that's a possibility. Gotta hook the little man up!!! And maybe the wifey too. Put her in for a M. So that's 5 total for me...

My educated, or uneducated for that matter, guess is that Lee deleted it. I had thoughts of it, perhaps at least moving it, but it wasn't that bad yesterday when I left. It must have gotten bad. ????????????????

Man, my bro has the 720, that hing gets hellacious service. And is a POS, he has to f*ck with it to get the charger to work, and I'll stand next to him talkin away, and he is doing the cell phone dance trying to find a signal. The 730's are even worse. To each their own though....

Yes. You do need it. It holds the bearing from walking out of the case. Trust me on this. They don't just put useless pieces on bikes. Everything is there for a reason. In order for the bearings to work happy, they need to be in alignment. Otherwise, imminent failure takes over and pisses you off!!! Also, I'm movin this to repairs..

And I'll boot ya in the ass too. Homie, find out if you have spark. Then, pull the carbs off and clean them. What you got now? There isn't much to making a banshee run....... Get yourself a service manual. Every testing electrical spec is in there.... You need one. Don't go spouting off about beating things when your bike doesn't run. My bet is that you will get somked by the 450. They are wicjed fast bikes. If you have spark, fuel and compression, it has to run.....

I will have the sure fire cure soon boyz and girls. How does a thrust bearing and shaft collar sound? TO go up against the CASE, not the flexible side cover...... Positive placement of the shift shaft..... And unnoticeable to the untrained eye.....

I'll move it over for ya.