boonman

I'm sorry you feel that way.....

I run nothing but super swamper tires on anything I drive. On both my Blazers, I have Swamper TSl/SX tires. They aren't quite a radial, but aren't quite a bias. I call them a half breed. I have a set of 39" mickey Thompson baja belted tires. I put them on the truck when I am either polishing my other wheels, (with the 44" boggers) or going on a long road trip with the truck. They are pavement and sand tire only. Here is what I recommend to you. If you don't mind noise, a Super swamper TSL/SX will give you great mileage, and superb performance off road. And the on road characteristics are alot better than the run of the mill TSL bias tire. The tread pattern is the same, aside from the little side knobs that are on the SX, but not on the normal TSl. Both sets I have are over the 45K mile mark. I still have about 15-20K to go before they are toast. They are LOUD though. Now, if you don't want the noise, and don't mind spending a slight amount more on the tire, I suggest the Super Swamper SSR. it is a Radial tire. Road noise is minimal. On road characteristics are superb to ALL other swampers. Sipes for wet road use. Excellent off road capability. I have run ALOT of different tires. I do not like Mickey Thompson's, And I HATE BFG tires. Any and all of them. Off road performance compared to a swamper is lacking heavily. The comparison is unparalleled. if you travel in the mud at least twice a year, driving on a swamper is worth it ALL year. Winter traction is AWESOME. I will run buy nothing short of a swamper. Everything else I have tried just dosn't do it.....

Why not PM him?

Yep, drain it every once in awhile....

I'm usually drunk by then....

NEVER chassis ground a speaker. You could also be getting noise from the head unit and it is just feeding a noisy signal tto the amp. You aren't getting it throught the high level input possibly and the RCA connection feeds it through. Low voltage RCA outputs can be finnicky. All the kmore reason to go with a better head unit with a higher voltage output. Cleaner signal. And shielded RCA's are the ONLY way to go. Like I mentioned before, they are worth more than their weight in gold... If they don't cost you at least $40, they aren't worth a shit...... And yes. I have often wondered why I haven't printed up some distortion tickets to hand out around here. Every time I roll up to the stop light, and some crackhead in his beat up Honda Civic is bumping his 12" beat missers and crackling the shit out of his mids and tweets I want to and they want to Sorry buddy. It just ain't workin. Back to the drawing board. Power doesn't kill a speaker. Distortion does......

Advancing the timing may make it start harder. Retarding the timing will make it start easier...

Did i forget to leave that out???? Sorry.... lol EXCELLENT point though. Long ground lead can cause you

Fro, stop bitching, and stop whining about planetsand. if you love it soooo fucking much, go there. Obviously, you don't need and/or don't want to be here. Bansheehq is NOT a pay site. it is free. So is Planetsand. Take your pick. Or pick both.

I am in full agreement. I have done just that on my street bike. it was a "rim to win" contest. A local shop was throwing a new tire of the riders choice to whoever did it first. I was the first to go in, and I was the first to blow it out. I threw on a Gp tire I had, (which was a mistake, because there was more tread in the center of the tire than there was on the side) but it took 3 minutes and 47 seconds. And let me tell you. The fuckin mess it created on the bike was not worth the price of the tire. I spent the better part of a week cleaning that thing. My helmet, and my leathers also got ruined. I was pissed. And no fuckin way is my shee gonna be goin out in the street to pound it like that. It would overheat before you blew out a brand new set of tires.

We can do that in NY also!!!!

You do NOT use the choke when the bike is warm. it isn't actuallly a chok. It draws a ridiculous amount of fuel right out of the bowl, unregulated, no jets. You are flooding it on the first kick..... And if that bike has the 35 pilots you list in your sig, that is HUGE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I'd drop to 27.5. I run 320 mains and 27.5 pilot in my bike, and it starts great, warm or cold....

Alright. You say you were feeding it "high pass" w/ no RCA input. I assume this to mean high level input. High pass would be a crossover term, meaning that anything OVER the listed frequency passes, and anything lower than the listed frequency does not. now, that is what the bass blockers are. They are a high pass crossover. On a high level input, (speaker level input it is also called) power input, (or output from the deck, or the "source") does not matter. The amp will only take the signal, because you aren't actually powering a speaker. I can't figure out in gods name why anyone would want this type of signal. It is horrendous. Now, you also say you were running 3 pairs of tweeters. Tweeters require a clean signal. You can't feed them distortion, they can't handle it. Distort a signal to a tweeter, and it will blow. Feed any speaker enough distortion, and it will blow.... Now, this can be looked at two ways. You can still have the 3 pairs of tweeters in there, and added a set of pioneer something or other, and added another pair of "cheap" speakers as well. This gives a total of five speakers. If this is the case, that is a TREMENDOUS load if you are wired parallel. I assume you are parallel, because that is how 80% of people will wire something. Each "extra" speaker in line on a parallel connection, cuts the resistance load in half. SO, if all the speakers are 4 ohm, (as is all car speakers are 4 ohm, except a JL audio W-6 and some others I'm sure that are 6 ohm and other wierd numbers, but anyways) you will have a load seen by the amp as 1/4 ohm. That is hellacious, on any amp. And will overheat it very quickly. Now, the other way to look at the scenario. You got rid of the 3 pairs of tweets, and now have the pioneeer, and the cheapo pair. This would be a 2 ohm load if wired in parallel. Don't worry, I'll give you the rundown on parallel vs. series in a minute.... BUT, if you are now pushing frequencies below, let's say 150 hz, which would have been previously blocked out by the bass blockers, you will be heating up the amp more.... That rockford amp should have a built in crossover. Now, you say wen you ran that amp on "low pass", you got engine whine. I assume this to mean low level input, Or RCA input. This can be one of two things. Either a bad pair of RCA cables with improper shielding or some problem with the cable itself. Get a good set of cables. They are worth it. Trust me. Or, it could be a ground problem. if you're amp isn't grounded properly, you will get hellacious alternator noise. One ting often overlooked, is the ground strap from the battery tto the chassis. On a factory vehicle, this is very small. Say you're running 4 guage or larger power to your amp(s), you need to upgrade this wire. They are usually 8 guage or smaller. Alright. Parallel vs. Series connection: For simplistic matters, we will only talk about one channel here, so we only have to deal with a +, and -. Or, positive, and negative. Parallel- A parallel connection hapens when you come off the amplifier terminals, and go to the speaker terminals. So, you have positive to positive, and negative to negative. Now, for the next speaker, you come off the positive of the first speaker, and go to the positive of the second speaker. And the same for the negative side. And so on and so forth. So that all the positives are connected together, and all of the negatives are connected together. This drops the load in half for every speaker that is connected. Remember, you start with 4 ohms out of the amp.... first speaker is 4 ohm. Next one goes to 2 ohm load. Next one goes to 1 ohm load. Series- Here's where things can get tricky. You come off the amp positive terminal. Take that to the first speaker positive terminal. Now, run a jumper from the speaker positive terminal to the negative terminal on that same speaker. Now, off of that negative terminal, run a wire to the positive terminal of the next speaker. Take a jumper from that positive terminal, to the negative terminal of that speaker. Then, you can either go from that negative terminal, to another positive terminal of the next speaker, or if there are no more speakers to be installed, you take a wire back to the negative terminal of the amp. Get the jist here? Now, remember that in a series connection of speakers, your load doubles. So, your 4 ohm initial load becomes an 8 ohm load. And so on and so forth. Power wise, in a parallel connection, each time you put another set of speakers in there, and drop the witnessed load seen by the amp, you usually about double your power, or close to it. HOWEVER, not many amplifiers are stable below 4 ohm, or 2 ohm. Especially the cheaper ones. A rockford amplifier, depending on the series of that amp should be stable to 1 ohm. Some are stable to 1/2 ohm. In a series connection, when you double the load for every speaker connected, your power out gets about cut in half. Theoretically. A series connection will let everything run cooler. Especially your amp. You see, when running parallel, it will heat things up considerably. SOmetimes, this must be taken into account. Also remember, that as son as you bridge a bridgeable amp, they usually drop automatically to a 2 ohm load. So instead of starting out at 4 ohm, you are now starting at 2. So, if you bridge an amp to drive a subwoofer, and you wire 2 4 ohm subs in parallel, you are at a 1 ohm load. See???? The tricky part comes in stereo competitions where wattage classes are concerned. You may have an amp that is rated at 25Wx2 when run in 4 ohm stereo. BUT, bridge it down to 1/4 ohm mono, and you may be pushing 1,000WRMS??? Sick numbers. And those amps are pricey.

I use an impact gun. Unless I'm in the field. Then, a 10" extension, 14mm deep well socket, and a ratchet does the trick......

VP C-12, mixed 50/50 with 93 octane pump fuel would net you about 106 octane. You can mix that with your choice of oil. I run Klotz Super Techniplate. The only other oil I would switch to would be Castor 927.....

1 day. I get your head in, I machine it, and if it is early enough in the day, (depending on when my damn UPS driver gets there, or worse, U.S. postal service, or worse yet, Fed EX) I can ship it back out that same day. I did some mods last summer, I go the parts on Tuesday, and the individual paid the extra freight, and he had them back Wednesday. So, he was down from Monday morning, to Wednesday afternoon. Depending on where you live in the country will depict how long it takes to get back to you. I ship UPS ground. ( I pick up the shipping cost)

Hrmmmmmm. A no brainer on that one. Nyuk gets the nod. BUT, I may be contacting y'all about getting them heads you got. I want to have some for exchange. And some special things I want to try......

.055" and a little "massaging" of the squish area to keep things happy. 150 PSI is about .030" off the head at sea level.

My old cam was a 442/465 @ .050" with a 214/224 duration. WOrked great, and got good mileage and power. But that was more of a pussy cam... My new cam is a 234/244 @ .050" and .488"/.510" lift. It should be a rockin little street motor with the 10.5:1 pistons....... Although it is my daily driver.... Should be in the vehicle next weekend. I'll prolly drive it to coalfest.....

No mandatory fees. That's bull shit.. Keep it free, but accept "donations".

Free is the way it is, and the way it should be. HOWEVER, I have long held the opinion that some sort of site supporting "fund" could be donated to and a little emblem under your name can be had. I am affiliated with other sites that do just that. Works splendidly. You get acces to the site contributor forum. Which is kind of neat. There is a way out of it. And the just call the dealer comment. You have got to be kidding me. No monthly fee. That is just a pain in the ass. Keep it free, or it's just not for me. I sent Lee $20. Once. Have you? Didn't bother me a bit. I have heard malicious rumours that Lee gets the site hosted for free. I don't know.. I don't really care. I will probably send Lee another $20 this year just for shit's and giggles, unless he really, really wants to sell the site. In which case, I may be sending him alot more.... Anyways, point being, DO NOT set up some sort of mandatory fee. If you want to send lee some $$$, buy some shit from the cafe store or whatever it is. I have a bunch of HQ shirts, and I bought some stickers. I personally didn't like the way the store was set up. It was a PITA to get shit. Oh well. [email protected] Paypal away boyz..... P.S. WTF is this?? Maybe with a donation, you could up your emoticon status........

Why not pull the carbs down quick, clean them out. To eliminate the possibility of a clogged jet being the culprit of the hard starting bit. Completely disassemble them, and go from there. Another thing to try when doing a test for air leaks like you have been doing is to use one of those nifty little propane torches. DOn't lite it though. Just cra k the valve open, and wave it around the intake area..... Works like a champ, and doesn't make a mess...

About $350 for a complete assembly. But, to just have your unit trued and welded is not an expensive ordeal.

I need a virgin stock head. A little pitting is alright in the domes. PM me. Also, anyone that may have an RZ flywheel, give me a holla....