boonman

That is why you don't aim ANY hose, be it from a pressure washer, or hooked up to your house at the air box. A little common sense can go a long way. you should be running an outerware no matter what. I don't have an airbox lid, and I wash my bike with a pressure washer every time.....

c-clip perhaps? Is the cylinder gouged up at all?

That is part of your answer. I am also betting that possibly the pilot jet is clogged. And the carbs being out of sync didn't help any. I would pull the carbs off and clean them with cleaner and compressed air. Remember, you must remove the jets to do this.

What happens when you lighten your flywheel is that you get rid of rotational mass. This is a good thing in a 2 stroke engine. It can be good in multi cylinder 4 stroke engines as well, but we won't go there at the moment. Now, doing this does a few things. It allows the motor to rev faster. What this will do for your seat of the pants feel is give you wicked throttle response. When you crack the throttle, and allow more fuel into the engine, this is less mass that the motor has to get moving. Now, some people will say some sort of nonsense about how does that effect my power output just removing 9 oz. when your moving a 600 lb. bike with rider? Well, when you remove it from the root of the power, it means ALOT!! Say your turning 9,000 RPM in first gear. Are your tires spinning 9,000 RPM??? nope. Your tranny takes care of that. Lightening up the mass on the crankshaft itself is awesome. I have heard some sort of business about the bike wanting to come out of the powerband and what not. Not the case. it allows you to get to the powerband easier, and smoother. The bike stays in the powerband if you want it to due to the piston having combustion taing place every 180 degrees of crank rotation. Think about that for a moment. every 180 degrees. There are 360 degrees in a circle. On a four stroke engine, you have a power stroke, then 720 degrees of rotation before another power stroke occurs. What keeps the motor from dying at idle? The flywheel. The rotational mass of the crank. Now, a twin cylinder is different, there is 360 degrees between power stroks. This is on a 4 stroke remember. Now, back to the shee. So, we lighten things up, and allow the motor to rev free, whenever you want it to. it makes the bike a pleasure to ride. Instant thhrottle response. I guarantee it. Just a FYI, I am tipping the scales at about 235 myself. I wouldn't trade my lightened flywheel for anything!!!!!

Yamabond "never" actually dries. It tacks up, but it is a permeable gasket maker. Good shit IMHO. When I assemble a lower end, I yamabond EVERYTHING. Every gasket, seal, anything that goes between the case halves, get yamabonded. I have never had a problem with case halves.... When I apply it, I use my finger, and run it around everything. Make damn sure everything is spotless before you apply it. I use a small grinder with a polishing pad. I also use a razor blade. I also lacquer thinner on a rag everything to make sure there is no oil or anything. SOmetimes mineral spirits from the parts washer can be a bitch..... And that shit will wipe out a bearing in seconds.... Cleanliness is next to Godliness. Take your time this go-round. Double check everything. Yamabond the shit out of it. If your crank seal was shit, you should have oil in the bottom of the right side case..... (under the cylinder). I doubt that coolant was getting past the plugs, but they have gone bead before..... You can get replacements from Yamaha.

You should weld the crank no matter what mod(s) you have. They can seperate at any time.....

You will need two torque wrenches to do the whole motor. Lower and upper. You need one that is 20-250 INCH/Pounds and one that is 20-250 FOOT/Pounds. The in/lbs will likely be 3/8" drive, and the ft/lbs will likely be 1/2" drive. I have Craftsman Microtorque wrenches. They work flawlessly.

Why yes. You could check this on your way to pulling off the carbs to clean them.

Pull the flywheel off. have a look see. Check the stator to be sure it's tight. Check everything over. Put it back together, and see what you got.....

You need oil in the tranny.......

My computer crashed, and I lost everything. Nothing was backed up. I haven't been back into chat, or AIM in forever. I am definitely going to be at Coal Fest. It's only like 6 hours from me. Wouldn't miss it for the world. I am still pissed I didn't buck up for RoostFest, but oh well. My loss. If I still have my Dodge, I'll probably take that down there. We'll rip that pig up some hills.....

I run my bike through mud, dust, sand, pretty much any condition with no lid and a UNI air filter and pro flow plate. No problems as of yet....

What is the compression of that engine? What is the differenct between the cylinders???

Your right side crank seal is shot, and causing that side to suck in tranny oil. I bet it smells like complete ass!!!! Time for a rebuild!!! If it was coolant, it would smell sweet, and be white. However, it would likely not foul the plug(s). Check your tranny oil level. I bet it's low......

Send me your stock head, And $20, and I'll send you a head machined for 175 PSI on stock domed pistons. Can't beat that with a stick... It's the one that is on my bike right now. I don't want race fuel anymore.....

hot wrench

Wierd....... My banshee doesn't use yamalube... I use Klotz...

The Wiseco's are heavier because there is more material packed in there. A forged product is 99% of the time better than a caat product. It's material physical properties that we're talking about here. Namua pistons do not out of the box add 6 ponies. However, Vito's pistons are slated to give you 6 more HP on the chart. Vito's pistons are Wiseco. Wiseco is the better piston here. The reason for the warmup is that a forged piston does not expand at the same rate the sleeve does when warming the engine up. The piston expands faster than the sleeve. So, if you kick it and rip it, (fire it up, and go haulin ass down the trail) you will cold sieze the engine. Happens hen the piston expands too fast, and it tightens up the tolerance in the bore, and it galls to the cylinder wall. This is bad. Now, that is the ONLY drawback with a forged piston. With a cast piston, you can kick and rip, BUT, they are also more prone to cracking a skirt off, and general piston failure. It is an undeniable fact. Cast things are porous. Forged, usually aren't. IMHO, anyone who doesn't let the bike warm up even a little bit is just asking for problems..........

If there is play, the bearings are bad. but, usually you have to measure the rod play for those bearings. In a normal situation, main journal bearings on the crank are pretty tough. It's the rod bearings that usually go.....

I found some gaskets at home. lemme see if I got them tonight. I only used the head gasket out of the kit, but the base gaskets are there. You don't need really anything else. Lemme see if I got a pair of them. I'll send them to ya....

It'll only cost ya about $15 for a top end Cometic gasket set off ebay for the top end. I'd pull it. It isn't hard. Splitting the cases is more involved than pulling the top end......

Except Saturdays and Sundays. That is, untill I get a computer of my very own........ Then it will be everyday!!!!

Mine ran for about 6 months with the cover full of water. Still ran fine when I drained it out....... You don't "need" to lighten your flywheel, but if you "want" to, PM me....

I love that button!!!! That made me lmao Reas!!!

I have tried the rag trick. It didn't work. I tried the penny trick, it didn't work. Don't forget about the flywheel as well. You will need a puller. You have to get the stator off. I HIGHLY suggest pulling the top end off. You will be in a world of nonsense trying to put the cases back together upside down.....